47-55.1 Need help 53 chevy 3600

[1953]

I need help deciding what to do with my 53 Chevy 3600 I want a front independent suspension power steering and power brakes it's the original chassis. I am considering the Mustang ll ifs, not sure for the rear yet I want to lower the truck and short in the bed I have a Chevy 5.3 engine as well that would like to use my question is what is my best options? A complete chassis swap? I want a daily driver and safe fun ride for my kids and fam. I want yo keep the chassis and least amount of work i know this is all hard work this is my first AD truck build and i guess i just want to see what people do with the 3600s and get a good game plan, im open for talk.

[mick53]

I suppose if someone makes exactly what you want a new chassis is an option. They are pricey. Unless you are going really HiPo probably not required. Keep in mind there are a lot of things that mount to the chassis. You can buy boxing kit and "X" bracing kits. Nobody makes anything near to what I need so I bought a tube bender and some welders.

[whitedog76]

The 3600 is a little different animal than the 3100 trucks. From the cab forward, it’s pretty much the same as a 3100. First off, the frame and bed is longer. Secondly, the 3600 frame straightens out, whereas the 3100 continually tapers. The 3100 trucks have a large frame hump above the rear axle, whereas the 3600’s are only a slight hump.

Anyhow, pretty much all the axle swap kits, 4 link kits, etc... are specifically for the 3100. I don’t know of any new chassis setups that are for the 3600 either. I suppose you could probably have one custom made that is 9” longer.

Anyhow your best bet is installing an ifs setup on your truck. The front frame sections of the 3100 and 3600 are the same dimensions. As far as the rear, that’s up to you.

I’ve installed a CPP crossmember on my 3600. For the rear, I have a couple ideas brewing. One it’s going with a spring under axle setup. The other is an IRS setup from a late model T bird or Lincoln.

[crossfire84]

You could take a look at my thread.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by 1953

I need help deciding what to do with my 53 Chevy 3600 I want a front independent suspension power steering and power brakes it's the original chassis. I am considering the Mustang ll ifs, not sure for the rear yet I want to lower the truck and short in the bed I have a Chevy 5.3 engine as well that would like to use my question is what is my best options? A complete chassis swap? I want a daily driver and safe fun ride for my kids and fam. I want yo keep the chassis and least amount of work i know this is all hard work this is my first AD truck build and i guess i just want to see what people do with the 3600s and get a good game plan, im open for talk.

buy a done truck and swap your cab over. it will be the lowest cost, fastest-driving decision, and a hundred trucks like what you are describing are already for sale at this moment, MII, 5.3, shortbed, sorted and driving, I bet some are already local to you. kids are only kids for a short time, and if this is your first project it might drag on past the enthusiastic stage.

[1953]

Well i build motorcycles this truck was my father's now passed away he was all about originality of it i am not and he said its mine do what you want with it lol im a good mechanic i have a shop all the tools I'll ever need for this build i just need a good game plan and get it done i want it to basically be a lowered updated original chassis with a shorter bed maybe remove that extra post in the bed, i actually just rebuilt the 235 in it last winter runs great, but i do think ill go with a crossmember style front mustang ll seeing the dimensions are the same i wont be doing hauling or nothing and i was thinking about a frame notch in the rear for axle over set up this motor i have is a chevy 5.3 out of a 07 trailblazer LT good solid motor i even considered putting this 3600 on that trailblazer chassis but i dont want yo get way ahead of myself ive worked on this truck my whole life and know the ins and outs of this truck pretty much anyways but i want it modern and safe i appreciate all the input hope to hear more.

[1953]

I also decided that i could shorten the frame nehind the cab and shorten the bed also one thing about this im very good with hvlp and know how to paint lol

[joedoh]

sounds like you have the tools, space, skills, and gumption.

start a project thread in the project section when you get going, I will follow along!

[mongocanfly]

Like Russ said..a donor s10 frame will get you where you want much quicker...and all the guess work is already done

[whitedog76]

Originally Posted by 1953

I also decided that i could shorten the frame nehind the cab and shorten the bed also one thing about this im very good with hvlp and know how to paint lol

Shorten? Keep her long and low brother.

[1953]

Yeah i will start a project thread when i finally make a choice, i only want it shortened because i did the shorter look of the half ton but its all just speculation right now ido need to get going on the chassis weather it going to be a chassis swap or chassis build i need to get going so id like to start on the ifs

[whitedog76]

Just giving you the business...

Since you're thinking about shortening, why not just find a 3100 frame to start with?

Anyhow, whatever ifs you choose, buy everything you need all at once. I tried to piece mine out, in hindsight I think it's going to nickel and dime me.

Like, I said earlier, I have a CPP crossmember, which is actually a Heidts. Since the time I bought it, I've really become fond of the Scotts and TCI units. Hindsight is 20/20...

[dsraven]

if thinking of a frame swap do one that is common to the truck. the s10 is the common one. the trailblazer will be too wide. yeah, different wheels could help. combine that with different tire sizes and then compare the front end scrub radius and other alignment angles and see what comes up. if you are a mechanic you will know something about these angles. there are also websites which will lay them out visually. when all said and done do something that will be enjoyable and safe to drive. if going with a bigger power unit then also go with some bigger brakes and better steering. the other thing you could do is make a frame table from some scrap I beam sourced from a metal recycler, then build your own frame while still driving the truck as it sits. when done it will be a faster to swap the body onto a completed frame with the driveline already in place.
-grab an assembly manual which should have drawings and dimensions of the frame etc
-do a plan, with drawings and a budget. like a pro shop would do. include the safety items like seat belts and brakes that work. just think how many times someone has stopped short in front of you while driving your modern vehicle and then ask yourself if you could avoid that with the old truck.
-do a thorough check of the integrity of the sheet metal so you don't get any surprises when you take stuff apart and find, for instance, the cab mounts are rotten
-come up with a plan to do the work in a logical manner
-stick with the plan
-have fun doing the rebuild and then driving it after

[1953]

Ive considered s10 frame i have 2 frames that i can buy one is a 2002 zr2 4x4 chassis and the other is a 2000 i believe it has the longer cab with the small back seat im favoring the zr2 chassis its in better condition both are rollers, what is the recomended s10 chassis to go with?

[mongocanfly]

are you wanting 4x4 or 2wd?...the zr2 is wider overall and frame wise than a reg s10 ....a 2wd reg cab lwb is the go to for s10 swaps.. although other have been used
if your gonna shorten the bed anyway you can make it match whatever wb frame you could find

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Like Russ said..a donor s10 frame will get you where you want much quicker...and all the guess work is already done

For you, perhaps. But I know a professional builder - that's all he does is build AD trucks. He does S10 frame swaps, Mustang II, and front clips. He claims due to all the body placement issues and body mount fabrication the S10 is his least favorite because it involves the most shop hours. This is someone who itemizes every hour he works. I know in today's climate it's virtually sacrilege to criticize an S10 swap - I mean after all, there's a whole entire forum devoted to it on this site, but I've only done one each, S10 and Mustang II, and the MII was a breeze in comparison. Didn't even have to touch anything behind the front crossmember.

Originally Posted by whitedog76

Shorten? Keep her long and low brother.

Agreed - longbeds look awesome lowered and all stretched out!

[1953]

I actually really dont want a frame swap at all id keep it long jist like you did, im lookong into IFS and rear suspension options at the momment bolt in ifs is what im favoring any good recommendation for that ? Junkyard bolt in ifs is a good idea that would be easy for me to get done mistang ll is also another one what is everyone's thought on a good choice for the ifs that will be my first project, rear a c notch kit is what im thinking, but my main focus is motor and ifs for this winter i want to get what i need and get going on tear down asap so if you men can give me a good ifs to use id love to make a choice on that today i will be using a 5.3 vortec out of a 07 trailblazer its a good runnong motor i have it in my old daily driver and i want to use that as my donor for parts needed like brake boosters, pedals ect.

[whitedog76]

The first to come to mind on the bolt in is, Speedway and Chassis Engineering (which is now owned by Heidt's). I can't verify it, but I believe the Speedway and CE/Heidt's unit are the same. If you're goal is to carve some corners, then Scott's would be the way to go.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bolt-...ber,50961.html

https://chassisengineeringinc.com/pr...49-1954-chevy/

http://www.scottshotrods.com/1948-54...k-bolt-on-ifs/

[1953]

Has anyone heard of a "light duty" 3/4 ton 3600 lol i was shopping around for bolt on IFS and one company said is your 3600 the light duty truck because our kit will only fit the light duty 3/4 ton i said i have no idea can anyon tell me anything about this and how to verify if my truck is a light duty 3/4 ton

[47owner]

They might be talking about the rear leaf springs. I also have a 3600, when I bought it, it had a helper leaf, it was a leaf above the leaf. I regret not taking a photo of it before I removed it.

I had one just like the one on the you tube video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ONl0RYtIog


Did you come up with a plan?

[dsraven]

trailblazer

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQNC1yGUM7M

http://www.mcfabricators.com/portfol...w/chevy-truck/

s10 may be the better choice is less work is wanted.

personally I would do a bolt in MII if that's the route you choose. plan on a big C notch if you want it lower. a good time to shorten the box like you said, if thats what you want.
not a lot of room in the cab for riders and no 3 shoulder belts. might be a great idea to fab some of those at the same time if you plan on having the kids in there. they don't have a choice like adults do, ride or pass kinda deal.
lots of guys on here have an LS engine in one of these trucks. search around and ask questions before you start. get some prices if that's a concern, then add money for stuff you didn't realize you would need. engine, oil pan that fits which will include dipstick, oil pump pick up tube, windage tray etc, trans, rear axle,park brake system, rear suspension, driveline, rad, fans, IFS, steering column and u joints etc, accel pedal, wiring, brake booster and master cyl, wheels, tires, floor mods, firewall mods, seat belts, seats (?), shifter, gauge cluster, steel for frame mods, steel for body mods, welding supplies and shop supplies like zip discs etc, body mount kit, fuel tank and pump, fuel and brake lines, exhaust, the list goes on. just ask somebody who has done something close to what you want in the end. remember to take lots of pics when taking stuff apart because these projects seldom get done in the allotted time. sometimes it gets hard to remember how stuff fits. an assembly manual for your truck is really nice to have because it gives pics of how stuff fits plus there are frame and body dimensions etc

read up on IFS geometry and be clear on how it should be set up to work properly. scrub angles, bump steer causes, antidive angles, control arm relationships and how that affects camber if not set up well, etc check the heidts tech tips page 91 of their online catalogue for some hints. don't expect much in the way of tech advice once the money has changed hands, get your answers before you buy. know how it assembles and works.
get the body off
square the frame and check for cracks, sag, loose rivets, rust damage behind brackets, etc etc
get the frame cleaned up and ready. reinspect
get the frame levelled on stands so you have room to do the work without the stands being in the way and high enough so you can slip the cross member under the frame easily
plan your attack
above all, have fun
post pics
not trying to scare you off, just being realistic. these things can get over ones head in a hurry so they take longer than first anticipated if you haven't done one before (or even if you have).

[47owner]

I did a lot of research on the s10 frame change. Its a big project, welding and fabricating.

[MiraclePieCo]

I'm wondering how many of those recommending S-10 swaps as "quicker and easier" than a stock frame/Mustang II have actually done it both ways.

I have done it both ways and I'm here to say that, by the time you haul an S10 home, disassemble it, strip the frame, fabricate all those body mounts, bed mounts, etc (then REBUILD them because you got the wheel placement off like 3/4 of most S-10 swaps), then rebuild the worn-out S-10 suspension and steering, the stock frame with an MII front end is actually much quicker.

And like they say, "No frame fits your truck better than the frame that was made for it."

[_Ogre]

old thread. but... i wonder how many s-10 frame swaps end up scrapped or on craigslist for pennies on the dollar? if you go back a couple years on this forum most any frame swap never gets finished, it languishes for years and finally the truck and person disappears. either method, i don't believe the owner realizes the work involved in changing frame or mustII. this is why i'll often suggest getting it running and drive it as is, especially if they bought a runner.

And like they say, "No frame fits your truck better than the frame that was made for it."

i couldn't agree more with this comment

[dsraven]

yup, thats why I mentioned to get a list going BEFORE you take anything apart. it's always more than you thought it was gonna be. trucks, bikes, quads, buggies, house reno's, wives....lol.if its a safe roller then maybe start with an engine swap which will also include a rear axle swap or a work around for the torque tube. drive it for a bit and fix a few things that bother you. work into a bolt in MII or IFS of some sort later. do smaller weekend jobs and work into jobs that are bigger but easily accomplished in a short time. it keeps the truck driveable, mostly, so we don't lose interest plus it puts the cash spent over a longer duration. if we have buddies who like to help they are also more prone to come back if they were there for the start and finish of a segment. like "oh we installed a bolt in MII in my buddies truck this weekend" or " we slammed a 4 link under the old truck this week in the evenings while the wife got her nails done. lol.".