47-55.1 MII with engine in truck

[Marty68]

Has anyone ever done a MII crossmember with the v8 in place?

sometimes it is best to hire certain things done.
I am hiring a local race fab shop to install transmission, drive shaft and rear end. plan was to next fall have them do a MII front... wife said just get a price and have them do it all at once one receipt from reputable shop. I talked to him just now. he and his "main guy" (who works part time welding together MII kits for another shop) think that they can do it with the engine in place.
this seems possible to me because the engine is mounted from the front mounts. take suspension off weld in front stuff bolt together trim inner fenders as needed brake lines MC. set ride height. move to rear... I told him he could as neatly as possible just plasma cut bellhousing crossmember out.

seems like the right thing, who has done it?

[dsraven]

you could also look at the bolt in cross member, maybe save some money on labor and fab time but spend it on the kit? dunno.
personally, i would yank the engine out for access and a good job. rather that than a compromised weld due to access and gun angle etc on an upside down weld around an oil pan, exhaust, engine mounts etc. if they are pulling the exhaust for access and spending extra time to work around the engine installing boxing plates etc then you might as well have them pull the engine (or pull it yourself prior to drop off) so the area can be cleaned properly, old stuff removed, frame boxed properly etc. with inner fenders and other stuff in the way that would likely need to be removed and trimmed etc the labor for the engine R&R would be possibly balanced out anyway. the rad should be removed or at least covered up well so it doesn't unintentionally get "bruised", etc. better to allow them to have clear access. another thing to think about would be a good solid trans cross member that won't allow frame flex in the cab mount area.
get a price both ways I guess. are you handy enough to get the drive line out and back in yourself or you would rather not do that?just pay a guy?
also, if asking them questions, see if they plan on doing a frame check for square, sag, straight first. that would be a priority in my mind. no use spending money on some work and find out it has to be redone because the frame isn't quite right.
just my opinion, but you asked, lol.

[Marty68]

Originally Posted by dsraven

you could also look at the bolt in cross member, maybe save some money on labor and fab time but spend it on the kit? dunno.
personally, i would yank the engine out for access and a good job. rather that than a compromised weld due to access and gun angle etc on an upside down weld around an oil pan, exhaust, engine mounts etc. if they are pulling the exhaust for access and spending extra time to work around the engine installing boxing plates etc then you might as well have them pull the engine (or pull it yourself prior to drop off) so the area can be cleaned properly, old stuff removed, frame boxed properly etc. with inner fenders and other stuff in the way that would likely need to be removed and trimmed etc the labor for the engine R&R would be possibly balanced out anyway. the rad should be removed or at least covered up well so it doesn't unintentionally get "bruised", etc. better to allow them to have clear access. another thing to think about would be a good solid trans cross member that won't allow frame flex in the cab mount area.
get a price both ways I guess. are you handy enough to get the drive line out and back in yourself or you would rather not do that?just pay a guy?
also, if asking them questions, see if they plan on doing a frame check for square, sag, straight first. that would be a priority in my mind. no use spending money on some work and find out it has to be redone because the frame isn't quite right.
just my opinion, but you asked, lol.

all good points. my plan was have him do rear set up on original springs. fab front crossmember under engine. and trans crossmember. and cut out bellhousing crossmember.
he does not like the stock spring hangers. so he priced new leaf springs etc. he said it would only be $300 more to 4 link.

I dropped the truck off a couple weeks ago he has been super busy and has not started yet.

my plan was next fall remove front clip engine etc.

he is getting me a price Monday to do the MII at this time. he indicated the thought in the shop was to look if they can do it with the engine in.

yes I CAN take engine out and re assemble it. but not too enthused about it.

he is a VERY reputable fabricator that does these ALL the TIME. if he feels he can do it in. I will let him just wondering if anyone HAS done it

[_Ogre]

gotta remember that installing a mustII ifs, means the steering column replaced and a whole new brake system (mc and all brake lines)
removing the trans, trans x-member, driveshaft, rearend and doing a mustII with the motor in place and then removing the front clip???
i think you'd be going in circles and spend a lot more $$$ by doing it in the order stated


remove clip before delivering the truck to your shop, clean and degunk as much frame as you can
at this point there will be no reason to leave the motor in place during the mustII/trans install
there is little chance of driving the truck home unless you spend serious cash

you really should put the year of your truck in the signature

[dsraven]

ogre is stating what I was getting at.
spend the money and get it all done if you want but be aware the sticker price may change drastically once it is apart. steering column, strg wheel, wiring for above, brake master cyl, prop valve, pedal assy, etc. get some quotes is how I said it.

[Marty68]

update and a question. i stopped and delivered the new 5 X 4,75 wheels and 235/60/15 front tires.
SHOULD have taken pictures
he was "putting rear end in for the last time". did an awesome looking job on the triangulated rear.
he said the 245/60/15 tires will be about 3/4 inch narrower than fender lip. may have to use baseball bat to ease fenders.
it also by calculations will be wheel lip height about 25".
his plan is to lift and support engine. remove all front suspension, box frame. put cross member in. mount engine to cross member instead of front mounts. then with engine bolted back in cut bell housing cross member out. mount t5. build cross member for it. order drive shaft. install new brake lines. master cyl. booster.
we plan to use original column. making "bushing" for it. need to get power steering pump.

the question is... what of the old stuff should be scrapped? what should be kept? drums are new. front axle probably has a couple $ value. does trans and rear have any value?

[mr48chev]

It all depends on what you consider "value" Someone will at least want the drums and there are guys who will need the rest of the front end parts if you have a spot to store them where they aren't an issue. Not big money but a dollar is a dollar.

The trans isn't worth a lot to me but again, guys are still looking for them and even if you get 25 or 50 bucks (might be worth more though) that is better than scrap but you still have to be able to store it until you can sell it.

Who knows, you might even get a pm from someone within driving distance who sees the post and decides that what you have might be what they need.

[Marty68]

Might be done friday rear is in and buttoned up. Front crossmember tacked in parts are there he is finishing an ls jeep swap today then back on mine

[Marty68]

UPDATE I picked it up sat. Drove it about 50 miles. Drives great. The swsy bar is mounted behind crossmember. No clearance up front. Master cylinder is moved back a foot or so. 13" springs are uncut. Rear springs are 250 in. Pounds. Front 300. He used a borgeson adapter for power steering pump with 2 shims to reduce rack pressure to #1000. I will post a couple pictures...

[Marty68]

More. . One picture of the truck he is building... also has got 40 and a Cora kit car. And a new hemi going into a 40s power wagon.

[mr48chev]

Boy that sits nice. I get a bit of shop envy looking at photos showing his shop though. It looks well equipped and well laid out without being overdone.

[_Ogre]

your truck looks great
like the coe too

[Marty68]

behind wher i took the pic is where the Cobra and gt40 are. the next bay behind it has his 68 camaro show quality road race car and a hoist with a 63 bubble top. painted getting ls drive train and suspension

[Marty68]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

your truck looks great
like the coe too

the COE is his first sheet metal work. he usually does suspension and ls swaps.
5 shops all wanting to do the paintwork on coe