06-14-2004, 11:20 AM | #1 |
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sand blaster
what's a good sand blaster and where did you buy it and was it a resonable price the one i have is not going to do the job. you get what you pay for you and learn from your mistake thanks in advance upgrade.
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06-14-2004, 12:11 PM | #2 |
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the biggest question b-4 getting a sandblaster is: how big a compressor and what's the airflow specs???
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06-14-2004, 01:41 PM | #3 |
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i'm not sure right now but i think it's 120 psi and it's a 25 or 26 gallon tank.
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06-14-2004, 03:31 PM | #4 |
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I bought a pressure pot blaster from Harbor Freight, it's a cheapy ($130) but gets the job done for the home hobbyist. Works very well on anything you can get unbolted. Biggest thing I have done is my radiator support. I have a 60 gal compressor that puts out 11.7 cfm at 90 psi?? (I think) It has a hard time keeping up so I have to let it rest once in a while. The compressor you described won't work too well. Not enough capacity or output.
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06-14-2004, 03:40 PM | #5 |
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what he said!!! small compressors like you describe are only good for very short bursts of like 30seconds at a time,if you really want to blast you'll have to stepup, i'd say the minimum for reliable blasting would be 60gallon 80 gallon is better in a 5-7horsepower range
one thing to be aware of is the importance of use sand/media that is 100%dry best results come from the bagged sand or media made and graded for blasting
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06-14-2004, 05:32 PM | #6 |
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I use a siphon feed blaster in a home made cabinet that works great. Problem is the compressor. I have a 5HP Craftsman 120 gallon direct drive compressor. It only puts out maybe 7 cfm at 90 psi. It will not keep up and I end up blasting at about 50-60 psi. Still works, just takes longer. Also, the direct drive compressors are not made for continuous duty, I have gone thru 2 cylinders and 3 piston rings. They heat up too much. A good 2 stage 5-7HP 60-80 gallon will be the next thing I get. Mine can't even keep up with my air tools. If you have a siphon blaster (blast from a bucket), then be patient with what you have. It will work, just takes longer. But, the sand is reuseable if you contain it and don't let it get wet.
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06-14-2004, 07:02 PM | #7 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
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I have a 5 hp, 2 stage Quincy, with 80 gal tank.....a pressurized blaster runs the "nuts" off that compressor(17.9 cfm @ 175 psi)....crazyL
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06-14-2004, 08:25 PM | #8 |
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Blasting
If you are doing small parts a cabinet blaster or siphon feed will do it.
It you need to clean a lot of metal then CFM (Cubic feet per minute) is what you are looking for. I use a 105 CFM rated compressor and blast at around 90 psi. I dry my own sand and screen it through #8 hardware cloth. I am attaching a picture of my compressor. It is a 1936 Chicago Pneumatic. Don't let looks fool you, it runs like a top. EdB |
06-14-2004, 08:30 PM | #9 |
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I have a C/H 26 gal. 4.5 hp. 8 or so cfm @ 80 psi and run a Eastwood 100 lb. pressure blaster with it and it definitely takes the wind out of that little compressor. However, I've found that if I use a 3/32 nozzle and finer sand I can blast for maybe 5 minutes at a time, before I have to let the air build up. Blasted the entire chassis and numerous parts on my '72 with this set-up. If you're short on patients get the biggest compressor you can afford and blast away!
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06-14-2004, 08:35 PM | #10 |
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Another idea - the nearest metal works shop here by my house will sand blast for $40/hr - only cost $200 to get my frame and steps blasted. If you only have one project to tackle you can probably save money by paying someone else to do it. Plus you can watch the game while he's out there working!
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06-15-2004, 04:35 AM | #11 |
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My sand blaster just will not flow smooth. I have a little HarborTrash pressurized sand blaster & I have to keep jiggling the hose or rocl the pressurized tank to get sand to come out. I have an air regulator/filter.
The only thing I can figure it that I'm in Alabama & its 90 degrees w/ high humidity. Any suggestion? (Besides waiting for a cooler, less humid day). Thanks,
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06-15-2004, 06:31 AM | #12 |
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What kind of sand are you using? Might try using silica sand (make sure you wear a respirator). Also, maybe try aluminum oxide, that doesn't seem to attractthe moisture. Play sand or beach sand won't work. They hold too much moisture, you sould use some prepared sand for better results.
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06-15-2004, 07:42 AM | #13 |
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yeah that playsand is a spongee,you can't get by with sand from home depot!!! you've got to use bagged sand for blasting check the local auto paint supplier or some home building supply companies have it
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06-15-2004, 08:05 AM | #14 |
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TIP tools makes the best sandblasters, but they are pricey.
I have two of theirs. A pressure pot type for big outdoor projects and a blast cabinet type. My compressor is a 7 horse 80 gallon ful industrial unit and it works real hard to drive the big blaster. Any smaller than this would be a problem to me.
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06-15-2004, 05:14 PM | #15 |
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I really think it's the sand that is causing your problems, not your blaster. A pressure blaster is a pretty simple design, and even if it's made in Taiwan it will still do what it's supposed to do. The sand is the critical part. Do you have a drier on your compressor? If you are filtering it, but your compressor has to work at 100% duty cycle, you are still going to get water build up in the lines and eventually in the tank. I know if I run mine very long, I get water dripping from the gun. It's not as big a deal with my siphon feed, but it would be a big problem with a pressure feed. Then the water is going into the tank and getting the sand wet. A filter does not keep water from getting thru. It helps, but you need a drier. I've seen them on Eastwoods website pretty cheap. It's like a fliter that has a desecant element to trap the water. Then you will have dry air. That would help a whole lot.
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06-15-2004, 05:28 PM | #16 |
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How long do the dessicant dryers work? I'm afraid that I would kill the thing first use. Can you dry them after use?
I am going to take some advice & get some glass bead after work today (the ONLY kind of media I could find around here). Thanks, John
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06-15-2004, 07:09 PM | #17 |
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I don't know how long they work for before having to be changed. I know the silica gel (which is what's inside) can be redried if you put it in an oven at 200 degrees for a couple hours. That is, of course, if the container it's in can stand the heat.
As far as media, I use medium silica sand that I got from the local hardware store. It's like $5-7 a bag for 80 lbs. Since I use it in a cabinet, it lasts a long time. Silica sand stays dry better, but is bad if you breathe it. You MUST use a respirator if you use it outside a cabinet. The dust is toxic and can cause major health problems with long term exposure. Glass beads will work great too. Only problem is they aren't very good at removing rust, they do condition the surface very well, and are very good for aluminum parts. Aluminum oxide is about the best for rust removal, but is pretty pricey (at least around me). keep us informed on your progress, this is good info for people wanting to know the ins and outs of blasting at home. |
06-15-2004, 07:31 PM | #18 |
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Some good info here. Maybe we need a blasting thread in the FAQ section?
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06-15-2004, 10:16 PM | #19 |
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You might also check for a partial obstruction in the bottom of your pot, the
fittings or hose: dead mouse; stick; dried once wet sand; rock; etc. Not that any of this has happened to me. EdB |
06-15-2004, 11:06 PM | #20 |
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Whoa Krue! Look at that user feedback rating for you! You must have a Whole FLEET of HOOKERS working for you. I mean, I only have 3 or 4, but you... Man, you've got a dozen hookers if you've got a dime!
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