Engine swap procedures?

[Furno68C20]

I'm planning on doing taking out my exhausted 327 for a fresh rebuild and back to stock project. While the 327 is being fixed I have a 350 freshy ready for install. I'd figure to ask the community for the best way to swap engines.

I have the correct rigging for this job, except it will be done in a standard house garage with vaulted ceilings so overhead shouldn't be an issue.

I have a 700R4 trans connected the Engine. does that get removed with the engine, although i want to continue to use it.

Any advise or tips would be greatly appreciated for a smooth swap.

Also, can i use the same flywheel/bell housing with this swap.

Thank you for your responses..

[Willys_MB]

I’m not sure with a 700R4, but I recently did this with an NP435 and there was no chance of getting the transmission out with the engine. It definitely made pulled the engine a lot easier without the tranny attached.

I think you’d have to pull the tranny anyways if you’re gonna leave it I. Because trying to stab the tranny while hoisting the engine in is probably impossible.

My advice is just go slow and be careful. It’s very possible to get it out without damaging anything else, just go slow.

[truckster]

If you don't have a reason to pull the transmission, you don't need to. Remove the starter (after disconnecting the negative battery cable) and the inspection cover. Remove the three bolts connecting the flex plate to the torque convertor. Unbolt the transmission from the engine and the two are separated.

If the starter bolts to the block the same way you should be good to use the same flex plate.

When you remove the engine, go slowly. There's usually a wire or two that gets missed as you're disconnecting everything, and if you go slow you can make sure everything is free before you do any damage.

When you reinstall the engine, it may help to jack up the front of the transmission to get it to mate to the engine. A trick I like to use is to cut the heads off of a couple of 4" bolts. I chamfer the ends and cut a slot in them, and then screw one in on each side of the block. They bolts serve as guides to slide the transmission in place, and the slots allow you to remove the bolts with a flat-bladed screwdriver once everything is lined up.

[yuccales]

Originally Posted by truckster

A trick I like to use is to cut the heads off of a couple of 4" bolts. I chamfer the ends and cut a slot in them, and then screw one in on each side of the block. The bolts serve as guides to slide the transmission in place, and the slots allow you to remove the bolts with a flat-bladed screwdriver once everything is lined up.

Very good idea.

[Furno68C20]

Originally Posted by truckster

If you don't have a reason to pull the transmission, you don't need to. Remove the starter (after disconnecting the negative battery cable) and the inspection cover. Remove the three bolts connecting the flex plate to the torque convertor. Unbolt the transmission from the engine and the two are separated.

If the starter bolts to the block the same way you should be good to use the same flex plate.

When you remove the engine, go slowly. There's usually a wire or two that gets missed as you're disconnecting everything, and if you go slow you can make sure everything is free before you do any damage.

When you reinstall the engine, it may help to jack up the front of the transmission to get it to mate to the engine. A trick I like to use is to cut the heads off of a couple of 4" bolts. I chamfer the ends and cut a slot in them, and then screw one in on each side of the block. They bolts serve as guides to slide the transmission in place, and the slots allow you to remove the bolts with a flat-bladed screwdriver once everything is lined up.

I also like the idea of a cut off bolt head or stud to use as a guide. Before engine removal should i remove the hood, core support, radiator? or will i have enough room?

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by yuccales

Very good idea.

Yep i do the same and it works quite well. Fighting to get the dowels and tranny lined up can be pretty miserable with out the studs.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Furno68C20

I also like the idea of a cut off bolt head or stud to use as a guide. Before engine removal should i remove the hood, core support, radiator? or will i have enough room?

If you remove the hood it will give you more clearance, but you can do it without removing it. You don't need to remove the radiator, but it will make the job easier, and it's easy to do. If you decide to leave the radiator in, remove the fan and fan clutch and use some heavy cardboard to protect the radiator.

[dmjlambert]

Before you unbolt the transmission from the engine, I recommend unbolting the transmission mount, and supporting the transmission front with a strap or a jack and block of wood. I removed my engine without doing that and the transmission just flopped down and broke the transmission mount. While the transmission was flopped down and just hanging, it made rolling the truck impossible and also made the engine impossible to put back in, until I went under the truck and used a strap to hold the transmission front up and somewhat level. Then the new engine could go in.