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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 7
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Hello everyone,
I'm new on the block, thought I'd stop by. I'm not the best mechanic in the world, but I'll bet I can be of some service here sooner or later....But for now, I was hoping for a little help myself. Vehicle Info: 1983 K20 (camper special 'heavy 3/4' 1 ton frame and suspension as explained to me?) 4WD 350 motor (stock, no enhancements) OK, here's the problem.... the motor just quit the other day, as if I was out of gas, just filled it up, so that couldn't be. I checked the carb and no fuel was evedent, So... thought it was the pump and replaced it...no fuel.... thought it was the solenoid/ duel tank valve switch...replaced it too...still no fuel. I checked the power from the fuse box (checked the fuses first) to the dash board switch, and from there to the valve. Everything shows good connectivity with 12 volts flowing.....I checked the 5 port connector plug at the valve for ware, but all looks good. (Also, the dash full gauge went crazy the day b4 it went T.U. The dial went all the way around to about the five o'clock position (when full, it stops at 2 o'clock), then it went to the empty position and stays there...both tanks are full) I finally ran a by-pass line around the solenoid to see if the line was plugged up, but I have fuel flowing and the engine runs fine, so the line isn't plugged up. Anyone here have an Idea of what I might do next? Don't worry about giving bad advice....obviously I've been on a roll with that...so far ![]() Thx for any help Ron Last edited by K204ME; 06-18-2004 at 12:23 AM. |
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#2 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,400
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Ron, first i'd like to welcome you to the boards. quite a bunch of guys and gals here, if someone doesnt know it, they likely know where to find it.
on to your problem. there's only one thing left that you havent checked, the valve itself. since you bypassed it and it works fine, that's most likely your problem. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Posts: 2,121
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or maybe the sending unit or maybe a plugged carb filter?
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'96 Nissan Pathfinder '02 Firebird Trans Am. '88 K5 Blazer |
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#4 | |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,400
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Quote:
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#5 | |
Gentleman Jim Driver
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Poulsbo, WA
Posts: 1,550
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![]() Quote:
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Joe '75 GMC Gentleman Jim '84 Chev C10 Short Wide - Super duper plain (manual steering, manual brakes, no dome light, no cig lighter) '85 Chev C10 Short Wide - Super plain Vortec 4.8 4L60E trans also: '81 K30, '83 C30 Crew Dually, '84 M1028 CUCV, '85 M1009 CUCV, another '85 C10 SWB, '89 R3500 Flatbed |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 7
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Thanx for the welcome, and all the responses. I guess I didn't make my first post clear enough.
Here's what I have already done ![]() I have already replaced the valve/solenoid with a new one. I also replaced the pump with a new one. I've checked the wiring from the fuse box to the dash switch, from the switch to the valve. everything has good connectivity. ______________________________________________________________ The reason I ran a by-pass was to check for anything fouling the fuel line from the solenoid to the carb. Since the engine runs fine with the bypass, I can assume the line is not fowled. Thanx again...Ron |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Posts: 2,121
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my gagues is screwed up, only goes to a little under 1/2 tank when its full but just barly goes to the E, the valve is fine though, been working like a charm, but im about to go from dauls to a single what all is required there?
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'96 Nissan Pathfinder '02 Firebird Trans Am. '88 K5 Blazer |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 7
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Bane....let's work on my problem, before changing the subject, eh?
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Posts: 2,121
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all right my bad, u can slap my nuckles with a ruller
__________________
'96 Nissan Pathfinder '02 Firebird Trans Am. '88 K5 Blazer |
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#10 | |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,400
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Quote:
![]() so changing the valve didnt make any difference at all? i guess im a bit confused. you say that the truck isnt getting any fuel to the pump, correct? and when you bypassed the tank selector valve, it runs fine. that to me either says clogged or pinched line, or a bad selector valve. the screwy gas guage readings point more towards the bad selector valve. you say that you replaced it with a new one, new doesnt always mean good, double check it. same with the pump. did you replace the switch in the dash too? if not, check it to make sure that its not bad, it could be bad and trying to open the valve for both tanks at the same time. |
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#11 |
california fill
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Sunny So-Cal
Posts: 694
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Turn the key "ON" (engine not running) and crawl under the truck while someone inside the cab switches between tanks. You should hear the dual-tanks valve working normally. If not, you go from there. If it IS working, you need to manually apply suction to the fuel system. Right before the fuel pump, i beleive is a rubber line (the INLET for the fuel pump, from the tanks)... get a length of hose, hook it to the steel line that runs along the frame and SUCK. This will tell you quickly, easily, and accurately if everything is working to that point. If it is, prime the lines and hook it back up to the pump. Now disconnect the fuel line at the carb and start cranking the engine.. If you dont get gas within 30 seconds, its the PUMP.
A clear fuel filter in line between the PUMP and CARB is an excellent too for diagnosing this sort of thing, AND its good peice of mind. I recommend putting one, even if its only temporary. If the truck has a quadrajet carb, there is a filter right at the fuel inlet nut on the carb itself. If youve never checked it or replaced it, now's the time! When you say you checked the carb and no fuel was evident-- how did you check it? Are you SURE its a no-fuel problem? Pour some fuel in the carb manually (theres a float bowl vent, or just splash some on the butterflies) and then see if she wants to start. If she doesnt start or at least stutter a little bit, you're fixing something that aint broke! When you open the throttle manually, you should see the accelerator pump nozzles squirting, while looking down the venturii of the carb. these are just a few simple steps to check. If you actually take the time to perform these very simple steps, you will be well on your way to finding/fixing your problem. Trust me. pc |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 7
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First off let me say Thank You to all who have tried to help me on my problem. You didn't have to help and I appreciate it.
But..... You guys/gals really need to read the posts. Of the seven posts here, only one came close to actually understanding the sequence of events, and procedures I had already performed. Take a look at my first post again, and then read the replies. You will notice the very first post 1FastC10,told me, "there's only one thing left that you haven't checked, the valve itself." His second post was even worse hehehe (sry C10 ![]() If C10 would have "read" my post, he would have noticed I did check the valve. In fact, I had already replaced it! ![]() Anyway....take the time to throughly read other peoples posts. You won't look totally foolish when you reply. If your going to answer a post, don't assume, what they have printed is what you want to read. I honestly mean no offense to my comments, you folks have been generous in your replies. And I hope to remain apart of this community....This statement has only been an attempt at 'constructive criticism'. BTW....the end result of the whole fuel systems malfunction was a simple ground wire not securely attached to the frame, causing the dash switch to work erratically. I was able to read connectivity, using a ohm meter, but the continuity was faulty. Lesson learned!! Thanx again.... Ron |
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#13 | |
california fill
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Sunny So-Cal
Posts: 694
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Quote:
and which one was it? |
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#14 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,400
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Ron, i am really going out on a limb here, i was recently reprimanded for my attitude, and i have been letting alot of things slide recently. this one however gets under my skin a little. you've been here exactly 24 hours 2 minutes as i write this, and you have 4 posts. with this short membership period, you've already begun to question the intelligence of other members. let me tell you my friend, you're not on your way to making friends if you continue with responses like that. as for insulting my intelligence and reading comprehension, you might want to look into your writing skills and basic parts identification, because that is likely where you will find the problem, NOT with the responses.
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 7
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and which one was it?
Yours Plumcut, Great ideas on detecting a fuel line problem, I wish I would have implemented a few of those before I started tearing apart my entire fuel system ![]() Live and Learn, I guess....thanx for the lessons |
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#16 |
Right turn Clyde
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 2,911
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I was thinking a ground problem.. Really I was, I just didnt take the time to post it.
Glad you got it fixed
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1974 C25 LWB: 454 4bbl Carb / TH400 / 3.73 1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI |
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#17 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Thank You for pointing that out, in such a non confrontational manner. |
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 347
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I have to agree with 1FaastC10. You have only been here a short time and already questioning these guys.
You should have read where more than one guy said "just because its new doesnt mean it works". I for one am eternally greatfull of EVERYONE here. I have learned from everyone in one way or the other. With their help I was able to have the info and the guts to redo the engine compartment of my truck. So thanks to all here. Even from you K204ME I want to thank you for teaching others how "NOT" to act on these boards. Also I would like to welcome you and congrate you on fixing your ride!!! My dad always told me to "Keep your mouth shut and your ears open" if you ever want to learn anything. Tony ![]() |
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#19 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 7
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Quote:
I see, you were just adding fuel lol you should listen to your dad, and not get involved with other peoples problems....thanx for stoping by I"m outta here, you people have nothing to offer intelligent folks anyway..... |
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 347
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Thanks for your opinion.
Good Bye |
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#21 | |
You get what you pay for
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 4,798
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Quote:
Good bye and don't let the door hit you in the ass on the way out. You'll be a lot better off finding a forum where being a smartass is popular.
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Mike 1985 Chevy C-10 |
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Posts: 2,121
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1faastc10 i think the smartass needs to get hit with the ruler
__________________
'96 Nissan Pathfinder '02 Firebird Trans Am. '88 K5 Blazer |
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#23 |
Catchy title goes here..
![]() Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Rockwell, NC
Posts: 39,742
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uhm wow...
K204ME your replies are rude and uncalled for. You came here to ask for help, then replied in a hateful manner to anyone and everyone. I'm sorry I haven't been around alot the past few days, or this would had been closed when the pissing match began. btw wouldn't a bad ground cause the valve to not work as the others said ??? but I suppose " intelligent folks " would have known that ![]() |
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