Metal work suggestions needed

[May70]

So PO did some shotty work over a rusted out truck. Could use some suggestions.

I have a complete floor pan I am going to put in. Need to get the other stuff straight first but I have no idea the order to attack this.

Cab corners were just sat on top of what was left of the existing. I de-laminated part of the drivers side as you can see. Seems rough.

Never put in inner rockers back in it. Cut out old and made a 'L' flange between outer rocker and floor. Rocker seems to be almost dead on lined up, just need to pull it out at the bottom some to match the cab corner.

Will post a bunch of pics.

Above the floor the cab is in great shape.

[May70]

pics cont.

[May70]

pics cont

[May70]

Figured I would show these pics Old sign

[67mater]

If you are doing a full floor, and doors fit with decent gaps before, I would start by welding square tubing across the door openings and diagonally from corner to corner, inside the cab so door could be tested fitted while bracing still in place. Also measure between rockers at front middle and back to see how that compares to new floor; too narrow is an issue.

Did you have a plan for supporting cab while you cut the main floor out? Once supported, I would cut the floor as comfortably close to front and back seams as possible and then drill out and peal back the factory seams. You will also need to separate the main floor supports that run front back. I would then trim or bend the bottom of the outer rockers and replacement corners enough that new floor can come in from the bottom. It should be able to be centered and clamped all through the middle on the front and back walls.

trim/bend/modify prep as needed and then I would go ahead and remove old rockers and old corners fully and test fit A pillar bottoms and kick panel bottoms (if you need replacement) along with outer rockers and b pillar bottoms (again as needed). the cab corners can be the trickiest, but Id' recommend the doors be reinstalled and everything double checked to fitment back on the frame so you can be see the body line curve match up. I personally think staying below the body line is better for the corner seam, but since yours were overlaid, you'll have to decide.

[May70]

Did a little today... I have that pillar replacement but I am trying to figure out path to replace it. Red marks are just an idea... but not sure anymore after reading 67's post....

[May70]

You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that sort of brace setup would you? I wish I had thought about figuring up bracing to where I could test fit the doors... the first time hah... Still need to figure that out but I would like to switch my bracing to that style before going any further.

Not sure how I can going to support the can when I am putting the floor pan in, I was thinking I would run 2x4s through the cab (against the roof/upper door jams) and suspend the cab from the 2x4s.

My thought was to get the pillars/kickpanels, outer rockers and cab corners good first. Then cut out the floor pan and put the new one in.

Currently I think I will try to figure out how to brace the cab so I can take doors on/off. That way I can go ahead and remove the outer rocker panel, probably cab corner, then fix my pillar, kick panel and replace the rocker/cab corner. Then cut out old floor and put new in.

[Getter-Done]

Here is 1 picture from a member here for an idea.
I will look for more and
I will try to remember to take better pictures of my braces.









.

[Getter-Done]

Here it is.
This is a link to a great thread on the subject.

Link:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...full+floor+pan









.

[67mater]

I only caution that any assumption that what you have, with someoe already cutting out the inner and outer and slapping new corners and outers on, is straight, even and where it should be must be taken with a grain of salt. It's more important that you check and triple check body lines and fit (which even in the day wasn't tight on anything) are on the same page. Don't assume anything is your "zero" you need to make sure the doors fit. Personally, if you run a diagonal brace from kick panel to opposite rear corner (as your primary) you can then run a front to back brace off of those, but moved in an inch or so to give door clearance so you can work with doors able to be test shut.

I've never been to Virginia, maybe I should come out and help you!

[May70]

new brace pattern

[May70]

A pillar D.S.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by May70

new brace pattern

Nice brace work.









.

[May70]

I also used this to make sure the new pillar came down at the right angle. Worked great along with a few measurements...

[twoskies]

nice work

don't know if yours had it but mine had a backing piece that you welded through the front on the pillar piece

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by twoskies

nice work

don't know if yours had it but mine had a backing piece that you welded through the front on the pillar piece

Yeah Southern Kentucky Classics offers those.

Link:
http://sokyclassics.com/product.php?skcid=1004042









.

[May70]

So i actually bought those and have no idea what to do with them

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by May70

So i actually bought those and have no idea what to do with them

They go between the floor-pan and a-pillar
Here is the best picture I can find right now.













.

[twoskies]

put mine in from the back, drilled 3 1/8 holes and welded them on the front, front ground flat, if you look real close, that looks like the way they were done originally, you can see the spot weld divots on the green, i dont have them welded up to the new piece in this picture

[May70]

Got in my panels for the drivers side. Hopefully in a few days ill feel like working on it!

Proving interesting with removing a hack job, then addressing the rust they just covered up. Amazing they didnt even bother cutting out old rot. Going to be right when im thru !

[twoskies]

mine was hacked too, PO had used slip on rockers held on by bondo, real mess, had to cut past them and start where i thought it was good

go slow, ask questions, alot of people on here smarter than me willing to help

also you tube gibson63, think its a 66 but most of the work is close, very good at what he does

good luck

[May70]

Well the B pillar isnt going to be AS easy..... My current plan of attack im pondering going for tomorrow...

Not too sure though

[May70]

I have seen a hand full of people replace these B pillar bottoms. The die is pretty inaccurate on this one. The ones that have replaced it didnt show this amount of inaccuracy. Scratching my head on this one. Big ? mark on how to know if its all going to line up with new floor pan replacement.

Now Im looking at cab corner and I am almost thinking about doing it first. But it appears the body line is not straight, it drops off.... Will have to go back out there and check it out.

[67mater]

I would also like to ask where your floor is at? maybe you're doing more than I see, but you cant just go off the patch piece edges, you need to know where the floor is going to stop, but inside to outside, and up down. Are you trying to tie the rocker and corner in before fitting the floor?

[May70]

Yep, came to that conclusion also. I am going to drop the floor and put the new floor in. Then ill do the rockers/cab corners and the rest. I am doing the passenger A pillar now. I think I am going to wait to do the passenger kick panel once I mock the new floor in place.