Axle swap help on 70 K10 with Dana 44

[derotoreut]

I'm considering doing a front axle swap on my 70 K10 over the winter and want to get input on some things. I want to swap over from drum brakes to disc and need some help. I originally thought about trying to tackle rebuilding the D44 and converting it from drum to disc. After thinking about it further, I thought I would just do a complete axle swap to a newer (73-87) D44 disc set up.

So I know that I have the 70 open knuckle design with drum brakes, and I can convert them to disc "fairly easily" to some, but I don't think I want to tackle a complete axle rebuild. I was thinking about buying a complete rebuilt axle, which would already be set up with new bearings, seals, gear set, ball joints, U-joints, calipers, rotors, brake pads and lock-outs. This would make the swap fairly easy for me to accomplish. Your thoughts?

Also, can someone tell me about 10-bolt axles? I thought D44 (like mine) were 10-bolt axles? Are those newer axles that have larger axle diameters? I need some education here.

A couple of things that I have questions/concerns about are:

1. I'm pretty sure I need another D44 axle to stay with 6-bolt lugs and 2.75" axle tube diameter. This goes back to the 10-bolt axle questions above.
2. Do I swap over front axle only or is there a way to convert the rear to disc also? Is it worth it?
3. What master/booster do I go with? Or do I go with a hydro-boost set up?
4. Any concern over brake lines or fit up to calipers that I need to know about?
5. Since the front and rear axles are different widths, have you guys done anything to change the track width and that uneven look by either different rear axle swap, custom back-space rims, spacers, etc.?

Thanks as always for your input and help.

[b454rat]

If you have an open inner C, it's as easy as swapping from the knuckles out. Doesn't matter if it's 10 bolt or Dana 44. As for strength, some will argue, but they are pretty much the same strength. The 89-91 might have the edge do to 30 spline axle shafts and not being necked down. Once you get the knuckles off, whats left to rebuild isn't that much. If the axle works fine and doesn't leak, then don't really need to do anything. The inner axle shaft will need to be replaced with a newer one, the splines are the same but uses a different u-joint. Offroaddesign.com has the parts you'll need, whether be shafts or rebuild parts.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by b454rat

If you have an open inner C, it's as easy as swapping from the knuckles out. Doesn't matter if it's 10 bolt or Dana 44. As for strength, some will argue, but they are pretty much the same strength. The 89-91 might have the edge do to 30 spline axle shafts and not being necked down. Once you get the knuckles off, whats left to rebuild isn't that much. If the axle works fine and doesn't leak, then don't really need to do anything. The inner axle shaft will need to be replaced with a newer one, the splines are the same but uses a different u-joint. Offroaddesign.com has the parts you'll need, whether be shafts or rebuild parts.

What do you mean by "Open inner C"? Do you mean open knuckle design?

[special-K]

Yes, that's what he means. When the 10-bolt took over from the Dana 44 is a fuzzy area, but was close to 1980. The two are not only right about even in strength, many outer parts will interchange. It's been a while but if my memory serves, you can use the 10-bolt parts to convert your brakes. I may be totally wrong, others will confirm or deny, but I am sure some parts interchange between Dana 44 and Corporate 10-bolt. If it was my truck I would want to keep it with a Dana 44 even if all the parts aren't correct. Disc brakes aren't correct, but I'd want to see a Dana44 under there

[1976gmc20]

Disc brakes aren't correct

But just one year off

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by special-K

Yes, that's what he means. When the 10-bolt took over from the Dana 44 is a fuzzy area, but was close to 1980. The two are not only right about even in strength, many outer parts will interchange. It's been a while but if my memory serves, you can use the 10-bolt parts to convert your brakes. I may be totally wrong, others will confirm or deny, but I am sure some parts interchange between Dana 44 and Corporate 10-bolt. If it was my truck I would want to keep it with a Dana 44 even if all the parts aren't correct. Disc brakes aren't correct, but I'd want to see a Dana44 under there

Thanks Tim. Actually that's what I want to do is keep a Dana 44. I'm just somewhat intimidated by the whole rebuild part. I know it'll be more money to buy a completely rebuilt D44 axle, but all I'll have to do is swap it out. I found a guy a few years back at Carlisle who does a lot of Dana 60 axles. He also does the D44 axles too.

[4 Speed Dave]

I just took out an open knuckle Dana 44 out of my 70 last week. I can take measurement or whatever you need. It was originally a 6 lug and then converted it to 8 lug. I have all the brake brackets and hubs for 6 lug. I used a 10 bolt front axle and took off the hubs and brake backing plates to do the 6 to 8 lug change over. You could convert it back quite simply. I might just sell the Dana 44 axle as I just put in a dana 60 front axle in its place.

[special-K]

So which 10-bolt parts swapped to the Dana 44? Was it knuckles-out from 10-bolt on Dana 44? Which ball-joints, or are they the same?

[Zoomad75]

From the knuckles out the 44 and the 10 bolt use the same parts. Ball joints and outer axle stub shafts are the same. Lockout hubs are the same. I believe the seals are too.

The earlier 44 did have a couple of differences that changed before the 10 bolt came along. One of which is the flat top passenger side knuckle. 10 bolts never got them and the 44 lost the flat top in '77 or '78. That change also coincides with a change to the tie rod. The flat-top knuckle (and the matching one on the driver side) have the tie rod ends going in from the top. The later 44 and 10 bolt knuckles have the tie rod ends attach from the bottom. They swap easy, but you have to get both sides to match.

The earlier version (flat top style) used a smaller inner bearing too. Which means the spindle is different. The 10 bolt and later 44 swap right in to use the larger bearing.

If you are just swapping the later knuckles to get disc brakes as long as you grab the complete knuckle assembly per side you'll be just fine. If you get a complete axle assembly it should bolt right in.

I'd look for a 77-80 44 to get the larger bearing. The difference is probably negligible for sure, but I like to maximize the effort.

[special-K]

I have a '70 K/20 axle I want to put 10-bolt knuckles on. I won't have the large lockouts but I still want to use the Dana44. I have the HO52 from same truck

[Zoomad75]

Originally Posted by special-K

I have a '70 K/20 axle I want to put 10-bolt knuckles on. I won't have the large lockouts but I still want to use the Dana44. I have the HO52 from same truck

You might compare the spindle mounting between the '70 44 and the 10 bolt spindle. You might be able to reuse your hub and spindle and keep the large lockouts. The thing I'm not sure of is if the rotors would mount to the hub in the correct location for the caliper. It may not work. It might be worth calling the guys at ORD as they understand the differences better than anybody and have a lot of the maintenance stuff in stock.

[scottmitchellrose]

does anyone have any diagrams, sheets, etc. on this? i'm clueless. I also have a 70 k10- seems the right front hub lockout is shot/ sticking. i do have an 85 axle with disc- where can i pull that apart exactly and place into my existing axle? my cell is 919 768 2067 if anyone is kind enough to call. thanks a lot!