Ignition issue want to install push button start

[ChevyMopar1969]

Hello All,

Among others I have an 86 GMC Sierra Long Body that i fixed up years ago but is getting a little rough. I was working on another issue and while turning the key the linkage broke. I can turn the key for access or to on position and unlock the steering but when turn to the start postion nothing happens.

The actuator rack slipped off (see picture on page 69 of the jazzman column fix) last time it did this was about 6 years ago. This will be the third time

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_Rebuild.pdf


i just want to wire in a push button for but i want to keep the nuetral safety switch. Can anyone send a picture of which wires to tap into and at which point?

I know everyone is going to say just fix the column but it will probably happen again and i have other projects in the works so i just want take the short cut for now. Thanks in advance for any feed back.


i'll attach pictures as soon as i figure out how. lol

thanks

Here is where the problem is..



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[ChevyMopar1969]

here is the truck i and some of my other junkers, i'm working on the RR at the moment

[hatzie]

I'd make sure the neutral safety switch (NSS) is not out of whack or shot to pieces.
If the NSS is A-OK then I'd check the ignition switch on the column and if that's OK I'd repair the gear and sector.

That being said... The CRANK wire runs through the neutral start switch at the base of the steering column.
Purple is out to starter S terminal and Yellow is CRANK from the ignition switch to the NSS.

[Bandit130]

Is that black car a Coronet 440? Looks like it. My second car was a 1969 Dodge Coronet 440, Gold with white vinyl top 2 door HT, AC, auto. Loved that car. My first car was a 1966 Plymouth Belvedere II. Slant 6 cyl. 225 HP, 3 speed on column, 2 door HT. No air. Loved that car too. I wish I had both of them back in running condition the way I sold them.

[ChevyMopar1969]

Originally Posted by Bandit130

Is that black car a Coronet 440? Looks like it. My second car was a 1969 Dodge Coronet 440, Gold with white vinyl top 2 door HT, AC, auto. Loved that car. My first car was a 1966 Plymouth Belvedere II. Slant 6 cyl. 225 HP, 3 speed on column, 2 door HT. No air. Loved that car too. I wish I had both of them back in running condition the way I sold them.

yes 69 coronet 440 original 318 with air. the paint is actually a dark green with blue underlay it looks different in the light. I have a total of about $8000 into that car and had it for about 20 years. I had a big block built for it but there is nothing wrong with the current motor so did not feel like swapping it out so i traded the motor to my brother for some work on my Road Runner.

[Bandit130]

Originally Posted by ChevyMopar1969

yes 69 coronet 440 original 318 with air. the paint is actually a dark green with blue underlay it looks different in the light. I have a total of about $8000 into that car and had it for about 20 years. I had a big block built for it but there is nothing wrong with the current motor so did not feel like swapping it out so i traded the motor to my brother for some work on my Road Runner.

COOL!!! When I was younger, my Dad was a Mopar mechanic and Plymouth and Dodge were all we had for many years. Got to see a lot of the muscle cars back then while my Dad worked on them.

[ChevyMopar1969]

Originally Posted by hatzie

I'd make sure the neutral safety switch (NSS) is not out of whack or shot to pieces.
If the NSS is A-OK then I'd check the ignition switch on the column and if that's OK I'd repair the gear and sector.

That being said... The CRANK wire runs through the neutral start switch at the base of the steering column.
Purple is out to starter S terminal and Yellow is CRANK from the ignition switch to the NSS.

Thanks so purple and yellow at the base of the column and that would be after the neutral switch....hmm.....

I'm am pretty sure it is this i felt it slip off when i turned the key. Like i said it happened a couple times before.

Does the neutral switch not slide until the actuator moves or does that switch flip as soon as you unlock the steering wheel with the key?

[hatzie]

Yellow to and Purple after. Usually.
Check the wiring diagrams for your year to be sure.

The Neutral switch is driven off the shifter tube not the ignition. It's way down near the firewall on the column outer tube.
It's open so it interrupts the crank voltage except in Neutral and Park where it's closed, assuming the switch is adjusted properly.
The reverse lamps are run by the same switch assembly.

[Dead Parrot]

On my 75 C10, I did this to bypass a broken sector gear. If the last tooth breaks off, it will present the symptoms OP is describing. I left the button in place after replacing the gear as by then the ignition switch was bad on the crank contacts.

The push button wire runs from the purple with white stripe off the NSS and then to the IGN tab on the fuse panel. Wired this way, the NSS still works and the key is still required to unlock the column and activate the rest of the keyed circuits.

As mentioned, colors may vary from year to year.

[ChevyMopar1969]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

On my 75 C10, I did this to bypass a broken sector gear. If the last tooth breaks off, it will present the symptoms OP is describing. I left the button in place after replacing the gear as by then the ignition switch was bad on the crank contacts.

The push button wire runs from the purple with white stripe off the NSS and then to the IGN tab on the fuse panel. Wired this way, the NSS still works and the key is still required to unlock the column and activate the rest of the keyed circuits.

As mentioned, colors may vary from year to year.

Yes that is what i would like to try to do......keep the column key , put the button in and fix the column later the leave the button as well.

thanks

[ChevyMopar1969]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Yellow to and Purple after. Usually.
Check the wiring diagrams for your year to be sure.

The Neutral switch is driven off the shifter tube not the ignition. It's way down near the firewall on the column outer tube.
It's open so it interrupts the crank voltage except in Neutral and Park where it's closed, assuming the switch is adjusted properly.
The reverse lamps are run by the same switch assembly.

Thanks Hatzie

[ChevyMopar1969]

FYI by the way my GMC is 1987 not 1986 I have fat fingers! sorry about that