My Dusty 71 GMCe Electruck

[Gregski]

so how long did that took?

one bottle of red

[Gregski]

learned something new today, the steering knuckle comes off the spindle! who knew? I've only always seen 'em as one piece

[Mike Bradbury]

I have seen the steering arms both ways, removable and cast as one piece in the spindle. I wish mine were removable, my Mustang rack and pinion has terrible radius because the C20 arm is way too long for the rack.

Did you try applying heat to the spindle to expand it from the ball joint?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Mike Bradbury

I have seen the steering arms both ways, removable and cast as one piece in the spindle. I wish mine were removable, my Mustang rack and pinion has terrible radius because the C20 arm is way too long for the rack.

Did you try applying heat to the spindle to expand it from the ball joint?

thanks Mike, and no not yet, here's a facetious question for you, how does the heat know which metal piece to expand, that has always bugged me, I mean we are applying heat to the spindle and the ball joint, so my simple mind thinks both grow in size, but then again I was never any good in Physics Education, could barely do 5 push 'em ups

[Gregski]

managed to get the other side off today, this time I tried heat on the upper control arm ball joint, but no dice, also had to cut it

[Gregski]

Victory victory

[Gregski]

seems like all this guy does is just weigh stuff

and it weighs 2.3 Priuses

[Gregski]

cross membrane ready for dirt, rust, and grime transfer... to my face!

[Mike Bradbury]

It is a simple fact of thermal conductance. The simple answer is, they do both expand but the more complex answer is that the rate of that expansion is different for the different material and the distance from the heat source and the ability of the heat to thermally conduct across the separation of the two metals.

So if you have ever tried to cut a piece of metal with an acetylene torch it cuts relatively easily because the pre heat cones in the torch tip are preheating the metal ahead of the oxygen cutting jet. If you try to put several plates next to each other in a line like a train and try to cut them, typically the torch will stop cutting at the end of each plate because the heat cannot thermally transfer between the two plates as effectively as it does through solid material. You have to lay off of the cutting jet and reheat the new plate before continuing the cut.

Heating the outside of the upper spindle housing will in fact heat the tapered shaft but it is further away from the flame and the heat will not move across the gap between the bore and the shaft as easily as it does through solid metal. Even though they are tight against each other it will not conduct as well, which is just the effect we need to loosen stuck things. This process has to be done quickly, metal expands only so much and if the heating process takes too long then the tapered shaft will soak up the heat and expand as much as the spindle bore. It is a high heat directed quickly to an area, then force applied to the "cooler" member. Heat too long and you'll have to let the whole thing cool down to try again.

Being careful to apply heat in a very specific area will yield the best results. Haphazardly waving the torch all over the area will typically heat the bottom portion of the tapered shaft with a direct heat source causing expansion and ineffective results. Not using a rose bud that washes heat all over but using a larger welding tip that can focus the heat more is typically better as it directs the heat in a determined spot. Understand that the welding tip is designed to melt the metal and constant moving is essential. Pause too long and you will start to melt a portion of the spindle.

Keep in mind that the grease and rubber cup will be consumed in the fire long before the expansion trick will work. Removing the rubber cup and as much grease as you can is better for your lungs and the ceiling of your garage. keep a fan blowing to exhaust all of the fumes. I have used brake cleaner to emulsify all of the grease beyond what is visible so it is just a raw steel ball. Let the joint sit for about 15 minutes so that the solvent can evaporate before heating. You can never get all of it out and it will be quite smoky but it does work if done correctly.

[8man]

Mike, that was a well thought out and well written explanation of how it works.

Now Greg, it is magic. Accept it and move on.

Nice work. I hate pulling that stuff apart. Also, the YouTube channel is fun.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

Mike, that was a well thought out and well written explanation of how it works.

Now Greg, it is magic. Accept it and move on.

Nice work. I hate pulling that stuff apart. Also, the YouTube channel is fun.

Thank you Mike I echo Roberts sentiment, that was an awesome explanation, and I can see many readers benefitting from it

[Gregski]

a couple before shots, as in before I transfer all the dirt, rust and grime to my face

[Gregski]

the lower control arm ball joints are simply pressed in, and so they must be depressed, a proper ball joint puller kit rented from your local parts house makes quick work of said task

I like to use a 15 gallon black garbage can as an assist

if performing this task in the wee hours of the morning, I like to use a noisy impact driver, it quickly initiates a spirited conversation with your neighbors and helps them start their day

[Gregski]

one down and one to go, note the balless lower control arm already got a tickle from the wire wheel

[Gregski]

can anyone spot the difference between the two upper control arms, and care to comment

[Mike you seem to know stuff, so please wait till others had a chance to answer, unless you had your hand up to go to the bathroom, in that case go ahead]

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

Mike, that was a well thought out and well written explanation of how it works.

Now Greg, it is magic. Accept it and move on.

Nice work. I hate pulling that stuff apart. Also, the YouTube channel is fun.

thank you Robert I just uploaded a new "fun" video 1967-70 Chevy C10 Drum Brakes, Control Arms, Spindles, and Stuff

[Gregski]

so I just had to get them ball joints out of the upper control arms, and after trying heat, and even drilling relief holes through em I took them to the shop press and POP after 72 tons of pressure they final gave

[Gregski]

after liberating the stick from the upper control arm I thought my time would be best spent smoothing out all the sharp edges the factory missed, clearly this was the best use of my time

[Gregski]

I then attempted to remove the stick from the lower control arm, but my 6 foot cheater bar proved inadequate

[Gregski]

so then it was time to de rust the core support

[Gregski]

wheelin' like a Boss !

[8man]

You should get the more expensive wire wheels, the ones that have the shiny little rod projectiles ALL THE WAY AROUND the wheel. That was a lot of wheeling, and not the fun kind.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

You should get the more expensive wire wheels, the ones that have the shiny little rod projectiles ALL THE WAY AROUND the wheel. That was a lot of wheeling, and not the fun kind.

are you saying I'm getting ripped off buying these used, they was three for a dollar!?

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by Gregski

are you saying I'm getting ripped off buying these used, they was three for a dollar!?

Not just good info ….but entertaining Too🤭

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

Not just good info ….but entertaining Too🤭

thanks I appreciate that