47-55.1 Steering column placement

[R&B51]

51 3100 recessed firewall for LS clearance.
Working on planning pedal assembles and steering column placement. Constrained some by lower edge dash (could possibly delete shift linkage notch and at same time create centered larger bore notch to allow moving column higher at dash) and recessed box in firewall. Top of firewall box is 15” off level cab floor.
Initial look suggests hole through firewall higher than original hole resulting in sort of more horizontal plane of column angle. My little Wixie digital angle gauge says I don’t alter I can make about 21° downward slope probably if I notch the dash for the column may be up to 27° downward slope of the column through firewall.
Willing to go with tilt (I think they tilt maybe 15 degrees up and down)tilt and telescope Ididit type column to allow some up and down. Firewall shaft penetration understood to need to clear engine on bay side.
Some questions:
-Opinions or experience range of reasonable and safe angle column goes through dash?
-Experience on range the plane of steering wheel is distanced from dash in use?
-your preferences on wheel diameter and clearance from legs?
-related question, using a 1990 Chevy truck bench seat that I will cut 4 inches out of width-wise. It has a base under that I may need to adjust the height on to get seat height right. Do you guys have a general range on how high the seat or the bottom of your legs are off the floor for good comfort? How many inches up through the windshield does your visual plane level out at? Cab just sitting on a dolly so hard to picture of the rest of the truck around me. I am 6’ 2”, size 13‘s and the seat feels like it’s far enough back, just enough foot room but I just don’t know what seat height is good for me and other drivers who might be using the truck. Obviously impacts where the steering wheel sit comfortably as well.
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[R&B51]

Originally Posted by R&B51

51 3100 recessed firewall for LS clearance.
Working on planning pedal assembles and steering column placement. Constrained some by lower edge dash (could possibly delete shift linkage notch and at same time create centered larger bore notch to allow moving column higher at dash) and recessed box in firewall. Top of firewall box is 15” off level cab floor.
Initial look suggests hole through firewall higher than original hole resulting in sort of more horizontal plane of column angle. My little Wixie digital angle gauge says I don’t alter I can make about 21° downward slope probably if I notch the dash for the column may be up to 27° downward slope of the column through firewall.
Willing to go with tilt (I think they tilt maybe 15 degrees up and down)tilt and telescope Ididit type column to allow some up and down. Firewall shaft penetration understood to need to clear engine on bay side.
Some questions:
-Opinions or experience range of reasonable and safe angle column goes through dash?
-Experience on range the plane of steering wheel is distanced from dash in use?
-your preferences on wheel diameter and clearance from legs?
-related question, using a 1990 Chevy truck bench seat that I will cut 4 inches out of width-wise. It has a base under that I may need to adjust the height on to get seat height right. Do you guys have a general range on how high the seat or the bottom of your legs are off the floor for good comfort? How many inches up through the windshield does your visual plane level out at? Cab just sitting on a dolly so hard to picture of the rest of the truck around me. I am 6’ 2”, size 13‘s and the seat feels like it’s far enough back, just enough foot room but I just don’t know what seat height is good for me and other drivers who might be using the truck. Obviously impacts where the steering wheel sit comfortably as well.
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Also a pic (don’t judge my skills, my first welding and made recess myself). Circle is steering and square is hydraulic brake booster estimates of positions
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[joedoh]

there are at least 1000 ways to set up the column, I have tried at least 13. i have done the factory angle, the high angle, the low angle and literally everything in between.

I have started mounting like you said, the more horizontal angle. it help keeps the wiring and column ugliness out of sight, it helps with header clearance on the motor, and it doesnt look ridiculous with the "limp wrist" having a large angle on the column then tilting it down to drive.

this is a non tilt S10 column with s10 brake pedal assembly which works really well. it looks like it sticks way the hell out of the dash on that one picture but thats mostly the dished wheel doing that. there is a lot of room still even with the wheel.

I actually sucked it back into the dash a little over an inch and would have gone more but the ignition linkage/wiring would have hit the brake pedal switch. In another picture you can see I centered the column on the gauges and moved the hole over about an inch too.

[leegreen]

check post #17 here for some seat dimensions https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=839041

I raised the bottom of the column similar to mongocanfly and I also notched it up into the dash as well to keep the wheel out of my lap.
That is 3" muffler pipe tacked in place here. Rope holding column while I worked out the pedal box and columns mounts


Mid 80s camaoro tilt column, camaro wheel in one picture, c10 in the other.



Here is where the hole in the firewall is but the column in this picture is a c10 3 on the tree manual trans. I switched up to T5 and camaro column after this picture. The columns interchange on same mounts.


I did move the ignition switch lower on the column to keep it away from the pedals, it is pretty easy to relocate with a simple bracket that bolts to original holes and then lengthen the rod that connects to key switch.

[mr48chev]

I'd have to say that the first step is to get the seat of choice in place so you can sit on it in a good comfortable position and then figure out where the wheel and column need to be for arm comfort.
I'm 5-10 on a good day and have a 29 inch and maybe less inseam but my body height matches someone about 6-2 and my arms are long. That wheel has to be in the right spot to be comfortable,

Then you have gas pedal angle. I don't know how many pedals I put in before finding one that I was happy with.

[gsinon]

I firmly believe you need to get the cab mounted onto the chassis and figure out where the seat needs to be, and also where the column, gas and brake pedals need to be. Do Not guess or this will end up being a truck you hate to drive because it is uncomfortable.

I spent several days getting my seat in the most comfortable position, then the steering column, and lastly gas and brake pedals.

The mock up stage is vital in these builds.

[_Ogre]

mr48 and gsinon are spot on. i'd want the cab on frame to align with the steering box/rack also. otherwise you end up with 2 u-joints at the wrong angles or issues with the exhaust manifolds. joedoh has done plenty of these, he probably knows where to aim.
i didn't remove my cab until the mustII ifs was welded in and the column located. i didn't put the seats in until quite a while later.

[leegreen]

Looking at first picture in this thread again, I think these placements may be more typical:

Is this a 2 or 3 pedal truck? it looks a little tight for 3

A lot of things need to come together at the firewall. Some of the ergonomics of pedal, seat, wheel are pretty standard across all vehicles
For my build, cab was on the frame.
I started with the seat. I knew from factory seat and measuring some newer trucks I had access to how high I wanted it. Power height adjustment either side of that gives me some assurance. I knew how far back I wanted and the seat track travel lets it go from a bit further back to further forward than my wife sets her seat-wheel distance. I centered it on the gauges. Bolted it down.

next the wheel. A broom handle and disk of cardboard eyeballed from outside for angle (no doors or fenders) and sitting in the seat showed me I need to cut it into the dash or it would be sitting in my lap. Did that, then located column hole in toeboard by eyeball, then string stretched from steering box to wheel location. Good clearance at the engine, had to hack the rusted out set of inner fenders used for mockup. Tied the column to dash to hold it in place. Rag joint connected at box.

Pedals need to work with columns, boosters need to clear engine, fenders and hood. Desired pedal location I defined as narrow range that covered stock, and various daily drivers. I also measured pedal travel for various clutch and brake pedals

I made a full size side view layout of the firewall/floor/dash/hood and column on shop floor. Marked the position where I wanted pedals. Dropped my master and booster and a 60s C10 pedal box I had on either side of the line for firewall and started lining things up. C10 pedal box was too long to front and back so it was easy to cut it down at each end to match angle of firewall and dash. And to define a mount point for column/pedals to be welded to dash. The length of pedals worked out well, putting booster far enough down the firewall and the pedals the right height from floor.
With the pedal box cut to length, hold it in position and see if the pedals are centered on the column, A slight bend to each was needed to get them where I wanted.
Cut out a mounting plate for dash and and firewall clamp everything into position and tack. Check it all works out.
Drill holes for master to line up with c10 brake pedal pushrod, shortened pushrod to fit the new master. On clutch side I calculated where to mount pushrod on pedal to get full travel of the clutch master, and drilled holes for master to suit. Some welding on clutch pedal arm was needed but that does not scare me, if it fails no-one dies.
Weld it up, reinforce critical points, weld the mount to dash, drill some holes for bolts, add some return springs, pedal stops and brake and clutch safety switches, paint it and bolt it in. I had column and pedals in and out of the cab many times getting this done, at least I know it is serviceable!

[dsraven]

just looking at the pics I would say you are gonna be a bit shy on foot room, especially around the gas pedal.
try mocking it up in cardboard and duct tape, cheap and easy enough to do if you cardboard over the outside of the cab in the area needed, then tape it all up and pull it off. set it up on the garage floor and stack some wood or whatever for a seat. see what you have for comfort.

[R&B51]

Thanks so much guys. As always I get good perspective from all the time you have spent figuring these things out. I can see that it’s obvious I I am asking questions that I am not even ready for yet. I need to get that cab on the frame with the body mount bushings I plan to use. Take a look at that point about the steering box to firewall path around the engine. Need to go ahead and peel the cover off and foam on that seat, cut it too narrow it and weld it back then replace foam at least to get proper seating position side to side. Fab up any brackets to get seat at the right height. All the work you’ve done on those diagrams really gives me a great place to start and reminds me where the stock seat was before I cut it all out and got rid of it. Don’t have doors and armrests mounted. Probably need to at least hang those and figure out my arm rest a little bit so that I can begin the process of steering wheel position size and distance from driver. I have had the cab and body panels on and off the frame bolted together and then unbolted probably 10 times already - it sure gets old but it’s important so many steps along the way require it.
Listening to your good suggestions I can see you have spent a lot of time on your projects in this area and your wisdom will help me when I’m ready for my column placement. You are right about pedal placement. Got an aftermarket brake bracket and pedal assembly to go with Hydro boost. Trying to use the stock Corvette C6 drive by wire pedal assembly that will mount to base of firewall recess. The brake pedal seems to be in a good place, the gas pedal is OK but my leg has a little bit of a bend in it. Got to even factor in the thickness of all the sound padding carpet padding and carpet on top of that. So many things you take for granted. I did some reading and looked at how mine was coming together. Looks like it is usually best if the brake pedal is a little closer to you so that as you take your foot off the gas you have to lift a little bit and come up to grab the brake pedal . I guess helps avoid accidentally confusing the two in emergency situation. Probably need to go ahead and punch some holes and hard mount gas before I can get an idea of how it would operate. If not correct, just a few more holes to weld up, what is a few more after doing the whole firewall right!
Man, so many variables and things to figure out on the most important thing of all - that is dropping your rear end in that seat, grabbing that wheel, putting your feet on the pedals and being comfortable with all that driving position. Kind of rules number one above all the other decisions we make all these trucks (except functional brakes!). You can do everything else right but if it’s not fun to drive, you don’t have much.
I will try to get out there in the next couple days and do some work and use some of your suggestions to guide me. You guys are the best!
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[R&B51]

Whoa baby, sorry about that last post. I think I slept too little last night and worked too hard today and lost perspective.
I’ll try to keep them more to the point in the future.
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[vintovka]

It is a proven fact that the steering wheel gets closer to your gut with age.