1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"

[dsraven]

i'd have taken the box anyway. the fenders look really good. a long box is easily shortened but I would likely just keep the fenders and do an ad for the rest. lots of guys looking for a deal on a tailgate or box sides etc. if I get a deal I usually take what I need and pass along the deal to the next old truck guy. it keeps the old trucks alive and I usually make coffee money too. the box fits up to "66.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

i'd have taken the box anyway. the fenders look really good. a long box is easily shortened but I would likely just keep the fenders and do an ad for the rest. lots of guys looking for a deal on a tailgate or box sides etc. if I get a deal I usually take what I need and pass along the deal to the next old truck guy. it keeps the old trucks alive and I usually make coffee money too. the box fits up to "66.

Yeah well you have somewhere to keep it! I don't. He's listed the bed for sale, and an old truck guy will surely buy it, so all is well.

[dsraven]

yep, another old truck guy will be happy for sure.

[daveshilling]

Well I don't have a working Transmission yet, but that wont stop me from making progress.

Time to mock up an exhaust.

I got some downpipes from the junkyard, and had to cut one and re-angle it. I added a little pie-cut pipe slice to the gap and it angled much better underneath the truck

I bought 2.5" kit on ebay and ended up using only the straight pieces, so far.. I may end up needing little else depending on where i route this exhaust to exit.

I read that an H Pipe produced a better sound and I liked that it created a one-piece back half of the exhaust. It came with a spare 24" tube that was the perfect amount to join to the manifold downpipes I made, just using 12" sections for each.

I bought some Magnaflow straight-through mufflers... even on this little 4.8L it sounds awesome. Check out the Amazon Used deals... I got one for $40 and it was damn near new.

I used some clamps to connect it up to the downpipes so it can be removed if needed, and I have the mufflers just up on jackstands for now, while I figure out what I want the hangers to look like. I like the Welder Series hangers, and may go that route.

[OKGMC4]

The h pipe does make it sound a little better. I noticed just a hair more torque down low, too. For me the best part was that it saved my driveshaft…short time after putting it in I lost the front u joint on a 1-2 gear shift. The driveshaft landed on the h pipe instead of the ground and all I needed was a new yoke, u joint, and rebalance.

[dsraven]

looks good. will you also install downturned tips to keep the heat and oxidation from exhaust gasses to a minimum?

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

The h pipe does make it sound a little better. I noticed just a hair more torque down low, too. For me the best part was that it saved my driveshaft…short time after putting it in I lost the front u joint on a 1-2 gear shift. The driveshaft landed on the h pipe instead of the ground and all I needed was a new yoke, u joint, and rebalance.

Oh, nice! That's cheap insurance... I wish I'd have though of that, I think mine is JUST before that point... now you have me thinking though, maybe I'll install something else that achieves this. Can't hurt.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

looks good. will you also install downturned tips to keep the heat and oxidation from exhaust gasses to a minimum?

I'm going to let future me worry about that. I've left the tips open like this so that I can figure out what makes the most sense. I've considered dumping out near the steps, but I sort of parked that decision for now as I don't even have a functional, driving truck yet, and it actually sounds like a fun project for future me to look forward too after I get some other stuff accomplished.

But bare minimum, i'd add some tips pointing down, yes.

[daveshilling]

I also got the mounts for my Champion LS Swap radiator relocated, FINALLY. By removing them and rewelding them here, it creates a mounting point for the 94-96 T-Bird Dual Speed Fan and at the same time, it sets the radiator much closer to the grille and away from the water pump pulley...

I still need to do some final fitment, bolt it on, etc but I'm pretty happy with this little modification...solved two problems at once!

[OKGMC4]

Holy moly! I had to do the exact same thing on my Champion radiator like a decade ago! Thought maybe mine was a fluke but apparently they are all made that way.

[dsraven]

exhaust contains causic stuff, so if you dump out straight at the axle expect to see rust behind the dump out area. a rear exit would be optimal but you gotta do what you gotta do.

[Oldtruckwelder]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

I also got the mounts for my Champion LS Swap radiator relocated, FINALLY. By removing them and rewelding them here, it creates a mounting point for the 94-96 T-Bird Dual Speed Fan and at the same time, it sets the radiator much closer to the grille and away from the water pump pulley...

I still need to do some final fitment, bolt it on, etc but I'm pretty happy with this little modification...solved two problems at once!

Got a question?
I’m in the process of fitting a champion radiator into my 1957 with Camaro clip and original truck core support, what’s the magic number the radiator/cap can be above the core support without causing hood interference.
Thanks
JT from SC

[G&R's57GMC]

Originally Posted by Oldtruckwelder

Got a question?
I’m in the process of fitting a champion radiator into my 1957 with Camaro clip and original truck core support, what’s the magic number the radiator/cap can be above the core support without causing hood interference.
Thanks
JT from SC

From memory the '55-'57 Chevy 6 cylinder core support position was forward by 4" then the factory v8 mount location .

The radiator upper tank stuck up above the core support by at least 4" maybe 4/12". This is from memory I sold my Chevy to Dave and he has since flipped it .

Of course the '58-'59 is another story . Its front sheet metal is 4" longer leaving more room in front of the engine also the hood is a different shape .

So as 'Rosanna Danna' would say "Never Mind" .

Hi Dave

[G&R's57GMC]

Hi Dave, while this section is about Radiators and yours is a '58 .

OldTruckWelder asked about rad. fitment in his '57 .

So If you don't mind I'm going to address this and what I saw and what I'm going to use in my '57 GMC .

I am using the 55-7 Chevy core support and a Camero rad and electric fan like the ones pictured below .

Now back to you Dave

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

Holy moly! I had to do the exact same thing on my Champion radiator like a decade ago! Thought maybe mine was a fluke but apparently they are all made that way.

It definitely creates more space! So much space, in fact, that I had to trim the the piece that holds the hood latch by 1/2" for some clearance now that I have a healthy recess.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Oldtruckwelder

Got a question?
I’m in the process of fitting a champion radiator into my 1957 with Camaro clip and original truck core support, what’s the magic number the radiator/cap can be above the core support without causing hood interference.
Thanks
JT from SC

...yeah whatever Glenn said up there. Going with that (=

[Oldtruckwelder]

Definitely getting crowded up front.
Didn’t really want the hassle of finding all the new brackets by changing to a short shaft water pump.
Can move radiator up but not 100% sure how much before it interferes with hood.
Apologies.. not meaning to highjack this thread.. just trying to get accurate info from craftsmen that already solved the problem recently.
Thanks

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

Hi Dave, while this section is about Radiators and yours is a '58 .

OldTruckWelder asked about rad. fitment in his '57 .

So If you don't mind I'm going to address this and what I saw and what I'm going to use in my '57 GMC .

I am using the 55-7 Chevy core support and a Camero rad and electric fan like the ones pictured below .

Now back to you Dave

I like how your radiator is all the way forward. Most replacement radiators, have a built in mount that pushes the actual radiator back an inch or two from the core support.

[daveshilling]

Working on replacing the bottom of the passenger door....with this crappy dynacorn patch. It's more.. reminiscient of a door bottom, but it leaves MUCH to be desired.

The hole for the hinge was WAY off, and that entire area is recessed on the factory, but not on the patch.

I left as much of the door as I could, and I had to bend the patch further where the moulding sits... it just stuck out at a 45 degree angle??

[daveshilling]

You can see how bad the hinge hole is here. After much fussing, cutting, adjusting, and cursing, I got the patch in. I also patched up the opposite corner and didn't worry about perfectly grinding the tacks... that will all be under weatherstripping.

[dsraven]

in the last pics it looks like the lower hinge mounting nuts have cracking around them. is that just the pic or are they actually cracked there?

[dsraven]

old truck welder, one thing you could do is install a fan system with 2 fans instead of a single.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

in the last pics it looks like the lower hinge mounting nuts have cracking around them. is that just the pic or are they actually cracked there?

Oh one was definitely cracked. I drilled those cracks out with a larger bit to make a nice divot, and welded them shut.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Oldtruckwelder

Definitely getting crowded up front.
Didn’t really want the hassle of finding all the new brackets by changing to a short shaft water pump.
Can move radiator up but not 100% sure how much before it interferes with hood.
Apologies.. not meaning to highjack this thread.. just trying to get accurate info from craftsmen that already solved the problem recently.
Thanks

Well I think this is as simple as just sticking some cardboard on top of your radiator and seeing if/when the hood crushes the cardboard. A little trial and error and you should have your answer pretty quickly.

Personally, I think you should do what I did and relocate your radiator mounts to set the radiator further inward if there is space there. But drilling new holes to raise the rad is certainly faster, cheaper, and easier.

[OKGMC4]

Unless you've pancaked the hood, and I mean a lot, these trucks have a big ol nose on them. Look at the air filter box I built for mine and locate the radiator cap. Mines nowhere close to hitting. I think you could easily move a radiator up an inch or two to get clearance. Your next problem might actually be having to change radiator hoses depending on how much slack you have.