Front suspension work

[MASTERBrian]

2012 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD 120,000miles

So, for the last several thousand miles, I have been told by the dealership I needed a passenger side lower ball joint and that the same side hub was showing signs of wear.

In April, I tackled the ball joint, all went well. A month or so ago after being told I needed the tie rod end (inner), I went and replaced the outer. For some reason I was thinking that was the one they were referencing....I noticed it was a bit loose when I did the ball joint, so it was the one in my head. They are now saying both hubs show wear as well.

When I replaced the outer passenger tie rod, I was very picky on overall length and all went fine, but a few days later I got Traction Control and Stabilink lights that come on and off. Seems more in hot weather or after hitting water in road. Mechanic pulled those codes and said it was an alignment code in system.

So, here's the deal. I am within 10,000miles of needing tires, figure I'll do before winter hits as we get snow and ice and I want to possibly make a road trip or two. So before I get the alignment, I want to replace the stuff they say is bad, but I also am of the mindset that if lower passenger ball joint is worn, then surely the driver side is also close to same? Then same with the tie rods, wheel hubs, etc. I have the rest of the tie rod ends on the way, I was looking at Timken Hubs, but having a bit of issue finding them where I want to order and confirming they are the correct ones. All the other parts I 'm running moog, just because I feel they are on the upper decent end. Are the moog hubs ok? Or should I go Timken?

Then if doing the hubs, tie rods and the lower ball joints, do I bite the bullet and buy upper control arms? Am I crazy for thinking if lower ball joints bad, that the upper are also on the verge of being done for? Overall, all the parts are only about $600 with me doing the work and I have a 4 post lift, so it's really not a bad job.

I just don't know if the uppers are as prone to wear as the lowers on the ball joints. Thoughts?

Lastly, for some reason when I ordered the lower ball joint passenger side, I apparently ordered the joint for the aluminum control arm. I have steel. I recall this, but no clue how I ended up buying the aluminum, but I'm sure I tested with a magnet...I recall that. The ball joint fit fine. I had zero issues. I see some reviews saying they work on some steel arms. I called tech support as I'm getting ready to order the other side and the guy said the aluminum is .002 of an inch bigger than the steel joint, so it might just be really tight or the hole is loose from 11yrs of wear. He said if it fit, run it. I guess there might be a bulletin about this fitment delema out there as well.

Again, thoughts on that?

[EVRLET]

It appears you have no problem (financially and physically) doing a complete front end service. So go for it and add sway bar end links while you’re at it. Sway bar bushings is optional but I wouldn’t change it.

For hubs, I’ve used Moog, Timken, GM, and Mevotech.

Moog is 50/50 these days and so I try to not use them anymore.

Timken has been okay so far. Not enough use to have a verdict.

GM has always been good.

Mevotech heavy duty is what I use for lowered trucks/SUVs. Never an issue.

All rockauto purchases.

For balljoint fitment, there are actually three types of lower arms: stamped steel, cast steel, and cast aluminum. I believe the two casts use the same ball joints and stamped is different. It’s obvious when the ball joint doesn’t fit the spindle. It either fits or it does not.

[MASTERBrian]

Thanks. I did the links a while back, so that's done as well.

If there are 3 that just might explain. The guy at "moog", I don't think actual moog, mentioned two but not 3 and said if it fits then run with it.

[MASTERBrian]

Finally got the entire passenger side done. Anti sway bar link, both sides, lower ball joint, inner and outer tie rods and wheel hub on passenger side. Ordering hub for driver side tomorrow, then I'll do the inner/ outer tie rod and lower ball joint on driver side.

Still debating on upper control arms in order to tackle those ball joints.? Doesn't seem hard, I just need to see how they re-shim them to get them close. At that point I'll need tires and alignment.

I still have the stabilitrak and traction control lights coming on 50% of time after replacing outer tie rod a while back.

Is this work likely setting them off?

[EVRLET]

Re-shim??? The uppers have cam locks. Your struggle will be with getting the bolt out as the bolt head is in the strut pocket. You can loosen the strut hardware to give you some wiggle room.

The stabilitrak and traction control is usually tied in with the wheel speed sensors. After replacing the driver hub, see if the issue goes away. Do you have any C-codes stored for this fault?