FUEL PUMPS, Electric or Mechanical?

[Loose Screw]

On an old 350 that's got Edelbrock carb and intake. Has an electric cobbled in right now and runs just fine but I'm going to have to move it, it's just way to close to the exhaust system and like I said it's "cobbled in" with Rubber gas line. I will be using new rubber gas line for the time being but route it as far away from Hot as I can get it until I have time to study bending stainless steal...anyway, the electric fuel pump that's on there works just fine (so far) but it's noisy as Heck and I'm not real sure about this trucks electrical system......

So, should I put a Mechanical fuel pump, the old noisy electric back on or a New Quiet (reliable) one on there, what do you think?

Thanks!

[1970cstblazer]

Mechanical works fine, is quiet, and shuts off when the engine shuts off. Your electric pump may not shut off if the engine stalls unless the circuit has a oil pressure switch wired in.

AC Delco 40987 is the basic 3/8" line no additional evap ports.

[RustyPile]

When I bought my '71 six years ago, it had a Holley electric fuel pump, to use your words, "cobbled in". Mounted on the frame rail right under the passenger seat, noisy as all get up.. I removed all the plumbing and wiring, installed all new metal fuel lines -- delivery and return -- and a proper mechanical fuel pump.. I put the inline fuel filter just ahead of the pump inlet.. Been that way for a few years and works flawlessly..

I'll offer this suggestion... Even if your truck wasn't originally equipped with a fuel return system, add it at this time.. Today's ethanol ladened fuel is prone to vapor lock on a low pressure carburetor fuel system. A return line will all but eliminate this.

[LS short box]

Instead of SS fuel lines I would look into using Nicopp brake line. It's easy to bend and flares like butter. You can buy it in sections or in bulk at O'Reilly's.
With your setup there's no reason not to a quality mechanical fuel pump.

[72SB]

Look into replacement metal lines from places like Inline Tube, Right Stuff, etc. They are plug and play for stock routing. I got a tank to FP one from Right Stuff for my 67 Camaro. Fit perfect. Came folded in half in a 6' box. Easily bent it by hand to straighten it. I suspect C10 ones are fairly short so should come unbent in box.

I got a mechanical from Summit, Carter 3/8" line size. It was about $20. Works fine

I was at a cars & coffee yesterday and guy had an electric mounted on rail basically at door area. It was loud and he hated it but with his LS swap he needed electric.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 72SB

Look into replacement metal lines from places like Inline Tube, Right Stuff, etc. They are plug and play for stock routing. I got a tank to FP one from Right Stuff for my 67 Camaro. Fit perfect. Came folded in half in a 6' box. Easily bent it by hand to straighten it. I suspect C10 ones are fairly short so should come unbent in box.

I got a mechanical from Summit, Carter 3/8" line size. It was about $20. Works fine

I was at a cars & coffee yesterday and guy had an electric mounted on rail basically at door area. It was loud and he hated it but with his LS swap he needed electric.

Is that cars and coffee on Tapo? Or the Firestone shop? I thought they both closed down for winter.

Back on topic, I should look into the NiCopp for some new lines, given the age.

[dmjlambert]

I recommend mechanical fuel pump and bend plain steel brake line available in your local car parts store with flared ends. They sell them in various lengths and are easier to bend than stainless. Steel is a softer metal and I have heard less prone to cracks and also seals leak-free with less fuss. If you do end up with leaking problems I recommend copper flare gaskets, I even use them on regular steel.

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard//showthread.php?p=8245777#post8245777

Since you have Edelbrock you may need a fuel filter inline since Edelbrock doesn't have one built-in to the carburetor like a Quadrajet has, and in my opinion it would be best to put one in the line before the fuel pump and inside the frame rail, and use a metal-cased filter, the clear plastic ones are not good. Others will disagree. Edelbrocks may also need a regulator after the fuel pump. Extra plumbing like that makes me like Quadrajet a little more.

I like this style 2 of tubing bender rather than the style 1. The auto parts stores here used to rent style 2 for free and now they don't even have them on hand at all and they rent style 1. So I went to Lowes where I found style 2 for around $15.

[72SB]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Is that cars and coffee on Tapo? Or the Firestone shop? I thought they both closed down for winter.

.

Firestone. 1st & 3rd Saturday year-round excluding rain days

Westlake is 2nd Saturday year-round

[HO455]

Personally having run both on daily drivers I would put a mechanical pump on it and forget about it. Until the mechanical runs out of the capacity to supply enough fuel to the engine due to engine modifications it's not worth the trouble.

In my experience aftermarket pumps are not able to provide long term service. They generally are lucky to go more than 30k miles.

As always my opinion and $10 will get you a steaming hot cup of Joe just about anywhere.

[Loose Screw]

Originally Posted by 72SB

Look into replacement metal lines from places like Inline Tube, Right Stuff, etc. They are plug and play for stock routing. I got a tank to FP one from Right Stuff for my 67 Camaro. Fit perfect. Came folded in half in a 6' box. Easily bent it by hand to straighten it. I suspect C10 ones are fairly short so should come unbent in box.

I got a mechanical from Summit, Carter 3/8" line size. It was about $20. Works fine

I was at a cars & coffee yesterday and guy had an electric mounted on rail basically at door area. It was loud and he hated it but with his LS swap he needed electric.

Yeah, this looks like the way to go. I'm going to call Inline first. I'm just barely finishing cleaning the truck with good gas power washer. Fluids, door hinges and then a toss up between parking brake and fuel system....I got A Lot to do...ball joints, electrical, motor mount etc etc.....

Thanks Gents!

[Extended Power]

As soon as I relocated the fuel tank on my truck, I went with an electric in-tank pump.
I had fuel injection, so went with a Holley 12-133 pump.
Built a new engine, and switched to carb, so I had to get a regulator to knock the pressure way down from 60 psi.
Enter the Aeromotive 13220 two stage regulator.
Easy to setup, and still have a nice quiet in-tank pump.

If you go with an electric pump, put rubber mounts on it, if it’s a frame mount...and install it at the back of the truck, as it’s easier on them to PUSH fuel, than to suck the fuel. (If that makes sense)

I also have my fuel pump on a switch, so if I wanted to say, listen to the radio, I can shut the pump off. It also is wired with a “key-on” relay. So the switch can stay on all the time, as the pump will drop out, when the key is shut off.

[Loose Screw]

Damn....and I really should move the gas tank to under the bed....it never ends.
And all I really wanted was yard art...

[Mike C]

I prefer mechanical fuel pumps, and definitely not having any rubber under pressure, just suction. At least one of the fuel line replacement companies makes a line for a SBC with Edelbrock carb. Can probably find on the Summit site or at least order with their help!

[dmjlambert]

Your running truck is so much more fun than yard art. Welcome to the forum. You picked a great avatar and user name.

['68OrangeSunshine]

In my '67 K/10 Suburban, I had a Holley Red electric pump under passenger side on the frame and it was loud. Also it was contributary to a 'mishap' when my air cleaner caught fire from a bad backfire. That caused an engine fire. The insurance totalled it. Now it's got a Salvage title.
I do use the electric fuel pump now to transfer gas out of jerry cans and into the tank of my '71 GMC.
TLDR: Get Mechanical.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 72SB

Firestone. 1st & 3rd Saturday year-round excluding rain days

Westlake is 2nd Saturday year-round

Thanks! I'll send a PM.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Never had a problem with Delco Mechanical, but that's with OEM stuff.

[Loose Screw]

Got the mechanical fuel pump finished up late last night. 350 started right up with a prime and a gallon of gas.
I caused some other problems along the way...blew out all the lights except the headlights and my custom hack dashboard is leaking oil......
I'll chit chat later I'm headed out to the garage......

Oh, I did put a fuel cut off switch near the sending unit, glass fuel filter near the carb and a new fuel level gauge.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Loose Screw

Got the mechanical fuel pump finished up late last night. 350 started right up with a prime and a gallon of gas.
I caused some other problems along the way...blew out all the lights except the headlights and my custom hack dashboard is leaking oil......
I'll chit chat later I'm headed out to the garage......

Oh, I did put a fuel cut off switch near the sending unit, glass fuel filter near the carb and a new fuel level gauge.

Leaking Oil Pressure Gauge connector under the dash? BTDT. I once ruined a good pair of suede-side out Dingo boots that way.
If your Fuel Pump Safety Cut-Off Switch is manual -- it won't cut off if you're distracted and/or unconcious.

[Loose Screw]

You know it's crazy...4 bolts involved to mess with to put on a new O'Reilly's fuel pump...2 sets of 2...none of them Matched! Those that have gone before me must have gone out of their way to mix all of this up out of their spare nuts and bolts can!

Oh Frankintruck, I wouldn't do this for anybody else...

I'm cleaning up the wiring now....

And, it will always be a drivable project...

And don't you just love the people that ask, "What color are you going to paint it"?
My great grand children can worry about that!