New To Me '03 Tahoe

['68OrangeSunshine]

So I just bought a 2003 Chevy Tahoe 2WD. I'm getting used to some of its foibles. Like completely blacking out when I tried to motor up the Drivers Side window after off-loading groceries. I checked the voltage with a Fluke meter and got 12.87 VDC. About 10 or 15 mimutes later the lights came back on and I could start it and get the window up. I turned the lights to Zero and let it idle to charge up for ten minutes.
VIN is:
1GNEC13V33R20XXXX

I caught a glimpse of a chart in the Owners Manual and thought the initial G was the engine code. I didn't want a 496 Cubic Inch BBC. But I looked on the wrong page. It has a 4.8 L Vortec [=292 CI]. Which is acceptable. A 5.3 [327] or 5.7 [350] might have been preferrable. Or is the 5.7L obsolete in this generation?
The only worry I have is the miles indicated on the odometer are over 295K.

The electric windows like to play tricks on me. Yesterday, on the way home after I bought it [from a private party] the RR window would not move, The LR window would only go down 2''. Today, on the way to the MVD, the RR window went down halfway. When I got there, I couldn't get it up. After messing with the switches on the door console, I found the Kiddie Lock had been engaged and then the RR window went up.


A couple of questions I would put to Board Members more familiar with this series:
What grade of motor oil should I use?
What is my rear end ratio?
Fuel tank capacity?
What transmission do I have?
What can I do about paint patches?

[hatzie]

Your blackout is probably loose or corroded battery terminal related. You're going to have to disconnect the battery and thoroughly clean the terminals and the faces of the lead sockets on the battery with baking soda and water.
I have seen batteries leaking through cracked side terminals so wear gloves and don't wear anything you don't want acid holes in. I have clothes I paint and drywall in. Battery acid holes will just add character.

The other problem a lot of folks run into is the PO replacing the battery bolts with poorly fitting aftermarket parts to install audio and other equipment rather than properly installing the power connections to the threaded post in the fuse relay panel. These bolts typically don't have the wide umbrella under the head that the OE type bolts have, so the terminal contact area is too small against the flat lead battery connection.
The other common battery terminal problem is ham handed Vise-Grip mechanics chewing up the hex heads on the battery bolts with pliers and even stripping out the battery post threads.
Diehard 45172 or Deka 05323 are properly machined GM type replacement side terminal battery bolts.
The original type side terminal battery bolt heads are 5/16" or 8mm hex. 8mm & 5/16" are close enough that either size wrench will fit.
This is the battery bolt you want to see.


Oil.
Not starting a holy war here.
5W30 is stated on the fill cap. Use a decent synthetic or semi-synthetic API SN or better motor oil. I'd make sure it meets the DEXOS rating as well.

Axle ratio.
Look at the SPID (Service Parts ID) sticker on the glovebox door. You should see at least one three digit RPO (Regular Production Option) code that starts with G. G80 is a limited slip axle, if your truck is equipped, but the other "G" RPO will likely be your axle ratio. Post a pic of the SPID sticker in this thread... with the VIN redacted if you're worried about it.

Transmission
Likley you have the 4L60E or 4L65E.

Paint adhesion issues.
Low VOC and water based paints from 1980-2015ish seem to suffer from adhesion issues to varying degrees. I've seen this on newer rigs, so it's not fixed across the board. Lighter colors seem to be worse, but all of them seem to have suffered from adhesion problems. Why did it take 30+ years to fix this and it still ain't right...?
The method the guy in the below video used should give you a socially distanced paint repair that won't allow body rust to set in and won't draw attention to your paint adhesion problems.
I would mask off the entirety of any glass near the paint area, especially the windshield. You can remove overspray with 0000 steel wool, but you can end up with spiderwebbing. If you already have a bunch of sand pitting, and you're replacing the windshield, then don't worry about it. It's less work to mask and not have that problem to begin with.
http://youtu.be/zwHxCF7W6Ks?si=sWORrKVqP6zqF7m-

['68OrangeSunshine]

I had the Tahoe out in the rain today to meet my nephews for lunch. So the Daytime lights and wipers were on. I avoided the radio. Of course, after lunch, I showed them my new truck, and had the doors open. [Triggering that obscene number of Courtesy Lights.]
When I tried to start it, it was a no go.
Checking under the hood. The batt showed 12.76 VDC. I tried the Negative treminal. It was finger tight! Not having put the usual tools aboard, I had only my Swiss Army Knife. But it is the big model, the Swiss Champ, and has a pair of tiny pliers. Enough to put some pressure on the Terminal bolt.
The PO had used pliers or vicegrips, too. So the bolt head is somewhat chingered.
It was enough to start and get me home.
Later I went to NAPA and got a set of new Terminal Bolts, as per your P/Ns.
Also 7 quarts of Valvoline 5W-30 High Mileage oil and a Wix filter.

At the same time I got 6 quarts of Valvoline VR1 30 Weight Racing oil and an oil filter for the '71 Jimmy.

[Greg58]

I watched the video that Hatzie posted, my fear is that is a temporary solution at best.
I bought a 2007 3500 Chevy Express van on an online auction a few years ago, for a very reasonable price because it had white falling off paint. What attracted me to it was a solid rust free body and a 6.0L, 4L80 drive line.
It was one of the worst I had seen as far as how much paint loss it had. When I would wash it at a spray car wash the flakes would fly off and litter the floor! My solution was to strip all the paint off, first with plastic scrapers because I didn't want to lose the green primer that was still adhered pretty well. I tried 3M eraser wheels, abrasive plastic wheels for an angle grinder etc. Progress was very slow. The best thing was a wire cup brush on a 4.5" angle grinder. I used light pressure and didn't stay in one spot too long, I was surprised to find that the green primer is really tough and hard to grind through. I then primed the whole van with additional primer and a roller!
My idea was to paint the van with White bed liner. I bought a Raptor tintable kit in the same white as my van. This solved my dilema about what to do about the white door jambs. The kit came with a spray gun, you mix color and hardener into the 1 liter bottle and go to town! I did the roof first and learned how to spray the stuff, then worked my way around. I had misjudged how much I would need and had to buy a second kit. All in all it turned out pretty good, the bedliner surface has held up well, and the truck sits outside most of the time. In hindsight I should have bought a real spray gun instead of using the basic cheap thing that came in the kit. The most time consuming part was masking off windows all around, removing tail lights and plastic trim. I will find a pic to post later.
Greg

[Greg58]

This how bad it was before I used the wire wheel.

The roof had no paint left.


Primer coat

One bonus was that the bed liner finish hides minor hail dents and body imperfections.


I added the aluminum wheels off a HD 800 series pickup, I think they look good on a van. I was going to flip the thing but started to really like it so I use it for my work van.
My family makes fun of me because I'm retired and they don't think I need a work van! But I'm the first one they call when they need a handyman!
I don't know if I would do it again, it was a lot of work.
Greg

['68OrangeSunshine]

Impressive.

[Greg58]

Thanks, people want to ask about it when I get fuel it seems!

Greg

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Greg58

Thanks, people want to ask about it when I get fuel it seems!

Greg

Every time I gas up my '71 GMC Jimmy, somebody wants to buy it.

I'm less concerned about paint, right now, than the electric window switches and power rear view mirror controls.

Sometimes the window switches get finnicky, and don't respond, or respond the next day when I don't want them
And yesterday, I accidently touched the RVM controller. When I got the D/S set up, it went screwy on rocking the switch to the RH to readjust the P/S.
I miss the West Coast Jr mirrors, like on my '68 C/10, that I could bump into place, and tighten up with a crescent wrench.

Another glitch is all the door locks pop open when I put the shifter in Park. Then I have to check 5 out of 6 doors for security.

The oil on the dipstick looks clean. The PO told me she had had the oil changed, but I get a CHANGE ENGINE OIL banner in the odometer slot. Also CHECK WIPER FLUID. And DRIVER 1 would be the PO. How do I reset that?

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Every time I gas up my '71 GMC Jimmy, somebody wants to buy it.

I'm less concerned about paint, right now, than the electric window switches and power rear view mirror controls.

Sometimes the window switches get finnicky, and don't respond, or respond the next day when I don't want them
And yesterday, I accidently touched the RVM controller. When I got the D/S set up, it went screwy on rocking the switch to the RH to readjust the P/S.
I miss the West Coast Jr mirrors, like on my '68 C/10, that I could bump into place, and tighten up with a crescent wrench.

Another glitch is all the door locks pop open when I put the shifter in Park. Then I have to check 5 out of 6 doors for security.

The oil on the dipstick looks clean. The PO told me she had had the oil changed, but I get a CHANGE ENGINE OIL banner in the odometer slot. Also CHECK WIPER FLUID. And DRIVER 1 would be the PO. How do I reset that?

Selecting doors unlock in Park or Key out is an option setting in the Driver Information Centre menus. You can also change to driver only or all doors unlock using the FOB.

You need the owner manual. It'll tell you how to deal with Driver 1 & 2 as well.
https://www.chevymanuals.org/2003-ch...owners-manual/

Originally Posted by Greg58

This how bad it was before I used the wire wheel.

The roof had no paint left.


Primer coat

One bonus was that the bed liner finish hides minor hail dents and body imperfections.


I added the aluminum wheels off a HD 800 series pickup, I think they look good on a van. I was going to flip the thing but started to really like it so I use it for my work van.
My family makes fun of me because I'm retired and they don't think I need a work van! But I'm the first one they call when they need a handyman!
I don't know if I would do it again, it was a lot of work.
Greg

The white bedliner turned out great.

Hail vehicles can be great rigs. I've had several I picked up from Oklahoma and Texas auctions.
They were excellent mechanically but the outside hood, roof, and trunk lid looked a bit like a golf ball.
The outside is for other people. When I'm driving, I have to look at the inside not the outside so I keep that nice. :-)

['68OrangeSunshine]

I have the Owners Manual. Just too big to read most of it yet.
The Key Fob was lost a couple of POs ago.
I will try to attach a pic of the SPID.
[Unlike '67 - '72 SPIDs, the bare RPOs are given without an explanatory note.]

[Greg58]

GU6 is a 3.42 rear axle ratio.
G65 is self leveling shocks, sorry no Posi traction.
You can search you tube for a vid on how to reset oil change light. I don't have my 800 series truck any more, I think you turn on the key and pump the gas pedal 3 or 5 times till the oil change light flashes.
Greg

[hatzie]

They started using that style of SPID in 1986 or thereabouts.
15132198, LH011 FOBs are not a big deal to find.

If you don't have any of the old ones, you should delete the programmed FOBs from the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver then introduce the new ones to it.

[Greg58]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Selecting doors unlock in Park or Key out is an option setting in the Driver Information Centre menus. You can also change to driver only or all doors unlock using the FOB.

You need the owner manual. It'll tell you how to deal with Driver 1 & 2 as well.
https://www.chevymanuals.org/2003-ch...owners-manual/



The white bedliner turned out great.

Hail vehicles can be great rigs. I've had several I picked up from Oklahoma and Texas auctions.
They were excellent mechanically but the outside hood, roof, and trunk lid looked a bit like a golf ball.
The outside is for other people. When I'm driving, I have to look at the inside not the outside so I keep that nice. :-)

This truck came from western NE. it belonged to a Sheriff's Dept. It was used as a prisoner transport van. It had cells inside to lock the bad actors in. 8 in the back and 3 in the side door. The containment units were made by Bob Barker company. My cousin works at one of the NE prisons in Tecumseh NE. he is sure he received prisoners from my van!
He said Bob Barker started that company to supply prisons in the 70s.
All this van did was went up and down I-80 taking prisoners for incarceration, then going back and taking them to court. If the van would have lived in eastern NE the body would be really rusty, but it is much dryer out west.
Greg

['68OrangeSunshine]

What class hitch would I have on my '03 Tahoe [4.8L, 3.42:1] if I punch out the hole in the rear step bumper and add a ball?
Not pulling an Airstream or horse trailer, but I have a trash trailer made from a 3/4 ton frame and 8' Fleetside bed.
Views from below and above.

[hatzie]

The stock GMT800 step bumper is Class I. Class I is 1,500 lbs or thereabouts IIRC but I wouldn't trust that bumper for more than 1,000 lbs.

A big ugly aftermarket plate steel & diamond plate bumper is Class II 3,500 lbs or so.

I would just get a receiver and bolt it to the frame. Class III & Class IV are around $200 for a bolt-on part.

I looked up the Resse Reciever hitch part numbers but do your own legwork.
Reese Class III is #37152 Good to 5,000 lbs
Reese Class IV is #75725 Class IV is good to 10,000 lbs but the medium SUV derates it to 6,000. The hitch is capable of more but the truck isn't. A fully loaded 10K trailer will drive the truck. That's an unpleasant experience.

The seven flat terminal trailer light jack is a plug-in part if the truck doesn't already have one.

[Greg58]

I'm with Hatzie, don't try to pull with that bumper.
I have put receiver hitches on before and it is not a tough job. Much safer because the load is tied to the frame. Plus your AZ truck looks clean underneath, not crusty like up here in the rust belt!
Greg

['68OrangeSunshine]

Pix of 68 - 72 8 foot Fleetside bed trailer. Frame is stout. One ton, or 3/4. 8 lug wheels.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Main Glitch right now is the Outside Rear View Mirror electric controls. I can set up the DS allright, but then when I slip the rocker switch right to do the PS, it goes all screwy and dumps the DS settings.
Unable to find the controlling Relay in the Owners Manual schematics.

Also Compass and Temp functions are INOP on the Center RVM. Not a pressing concern, but would be cool if working.

Some years ago, my Buddy helped me mount a Class III hitch on my '68 C/10, so I know what's entailed. Not tempted to put a ball on the present stock step bumper.