47-55.1 Eliminate draft tube options

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if you have a place nearby that makes cables with pressed on connections you could have a cable made for the purpose of engine torque restriction, you know, to save the hassle of a motor mount giving out and causing damage. they could press on a connection with a bolt hole the size you need and the cable length you need. ensure to leave a little slack so the engine can move a little otherwise you will hear the harmonics of the engine through the solid link to the frame when the engine pulls even a little.personally I think cable looks better than chain, just me though.

Just how often do a new front and two new rear mounts (on the bell housing) give way?

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Considering the front mount, is there a need for an engine tie down strap?

Only if the torque on launch dictates the need. That same motormount setup worked in two ton trucks coming out of fields well overloaded in compound low with engines putting out all the torque they could muster without failures. At least I never heard of them failing. Leaking oil compromising the rubber was normally the reason for failure. At least every one I seen that was bad was oil soaked. That isn't likely to happen on that engine.

[geezer#99]

Considering the quality of new parts these days, anything could happen.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Considering the quality of new parts these days, anything could happen.

It doesn't take much effort or $ to install a chain to keep the engine from torqueing over too much and that is old school tech. You just leave enough slack so that the chain stops it from moving too far but still lets it move normally.

[leegreen]

With the cable throttle torque reaction of the motor won't pin the throttle open.
Anyone reading this with a solid rod throttle setup: the key safety thing for you is to make sure the link between firewall and engine is angled so that if the motor rises up after a mount brakes the arc of the link moving closes the throttle, not opens.

With new mounts I'd just keep an eye on them. Or weld a tab to the cross member to limit how much the motor can twist if RR mount breaks. Or run the ignition wire so it unplugs itself if the motor flops over.

That is a very pretty engine bay, a chunk of chain is going to look off.

[dsraven]

as for new motor mounts, they don't make'em like they used to...
a short length of cable with pressed on ends and possibly covered with black shrink tube or the like would not be noticed too much under the hood, wouldn't rattle or remove paint etc. it's just a suggestion because I have see and worked with the "new" motor mounts for that truck and thought about how they didn't look as tough as they did in "the old days" and thought about the extra torque your new motor with the supercharger would have. it would be a shame to have something let go and not be ready for it, thats all.
like LG says, new mounts, keep an eye on them.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by dsraven

as for new motor mounts, they don't make'em like they used to...
a short length of cable with pressed on ends and possibly covered with black shrink tube or the like would not be noticed too much under the hood, wouldn't rattle or remove paint etc. it's just a suggestion because I have see and worked with the "new" motor mounts for that truck and thought about how they didn't look as tough as they did in "the old days" and thought about the extra torque your new motor with the supercharger would have. it would be a shame to have something let go and not be ready for it, thats all.
like LG says, new mounts, keep an eye on them.

I'm pretty confident with the new motor mounts, but then again I was confident on the quality of the engine until it began puking oil all over my shop floor and discovered about at least two tubes of RTV stuffed up between the front edge of the oil pan and the front motor mount, to deal with the cracked front crank bearing cap.

I like the idea of a cable versus a jangling chain. Could I attach it to the block on the drivers side where the three bolt side motor mount holes on the block already exist? Where on the frame would it be attached? Since this hot rod inspired truck isn't going to have bumpers, there are existing holes in the frame for the bumper bracket bolts.

How heavy/gauge of a cable would I need?

[dsraven]

Obviously the higher up on the engine the better the leverage would be. It also doesn't need to be located at the front.
I think 3/8 cable would be fine with swaged steel ends. Attaching to the web if the frame is best, or a crossmember. Think of where it will achieve the best leverage advantage.

[geezer#99]

Easy to make one like this in the link.


https://www.manciniracing.com/fasthedutost.html

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Easy to make one like this in the link.


https://www.manciniracing.com/fasthedutost.html

Thanks. Now the trick is finding a place high enough up on the block that has an open threaded hole and where to drill/mount on the frame.

[geezer#99]

I’d wait until everything is in place and figure it out last. Could save doing it over.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I’d wait until everything is in place and figure it out last. Could save doing it over.

Yeah, thats what I'm thinking. The headers and the intake manifold for the supercharger make things a bit challenging. Just this morning I had to modify the spin-on oil filer and associated hoses as the way the builder installed them, they interfered with the rear header section.

[TX3100Guy]

As I prepare to mount the headers and intake manifold, I have a question. Should I use any kind of gasket sealant between the head and the silver three piece gasket? Between the gasket and the headers/intake?

[dsraven]

post 284 is what I was talking about. looks decent. good idea to leave that till last so it doesn't interfere with anything.
I don't usually use anything on a header gasket. some guys use the heat resistant silicone as a thin layer on the gasket contact surface. some bue loctite on the threads of the fasteners may be a good idea.

[TX3100Guy]

Progress is being made albeit at my pace.....LOL. Intake and headers mounted, along with starter and McCulloch supercharger. Lots of wiring left to do and I'm re-thinking the plumbing of my fuels lines (feed and return) along with the hoses that were previously used for the boost line coming from the sealed carb to the fuel pressure regulator.

I also had the engine builder insert a freeze plug and PCV in the former home of the road draft tube. I plan on using some tubing to plumb the PCV up the side of the engine, across the thermostat area, along the valve cover and over to the intake fitting. So plenty of plumbing and wiring left to do.

[dsraven]

Looks really nice. Take your time and work through it, thinking of how one thing affects another.
One thing I always try to think of when doing that kinda stuff is how engine vibration affects things. Like the oil pressure sender manifold. Over time will the fitting crack and break causing oil to pump out before you realize it and then it's too late? It only takes a minute to make a brace or whatever.

[geezer#99]

Pcv and road draft tube.
What do you have for a baffle under the pcv?

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Pcv and road draft tube.
What do you have for a baffle under the pcv?

As I recall there was a piece of sheet metal that was attached to the underside of the block shielding old from being splashed and drawn into the road draft tube/PCV

[geezer#99]

You might get lucky and not pull oil into the pcv.
I used a section of clear hose on my pcv line to monitor any oil movement.
And for your tubing, why run it forward?
Plenty of room around the back.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

You might get lucky and not pull oil into the pcv.
I used a section of clear hose on my pcv line to monitor any oil movement.
And for your tubing, why run it forward?
Plenty of room around the back.

I have a tee fitting installed into the intake, the back side of it has an electronic vacuum/boost sensor and I planned on the front fitting to be the tubing from the PCV. I'll look at again since I am in the plumbing planning stage and see if another arrangement makes sense.

Given the supercharger and sealed Stromberg carb, I have a fuel pressure regulator with a return fuel line to the tank. The sealed carb enclosure has a tubing/line running from it to the fuel regulator, as boost builds, the line feeds that pressure to the regulator to increase the fuel pressure accordingly.

The in-tank fuel pump is running all the time, with unneeded fuel returned via the pressure regulator to the tank. As a result, I have a fair bit of plumbing......fuel line in, fuel return line, fuel pressure sensor installed in the regulator, boost pressure to regulator, vacuum/boost sensor in the intake tee fitting and the output from the PCV on the other side of the tee fitting. It has taken me a long time to figure all this out, as the previous owner left much of it undone.

[dsraven]

the pcv valve also does not need to be right at the engine, it could be spaced off the engine a little so any oil drawn up could possibly also drip back before it is sucked into the pcv. a larger tube or hose from the engine to the pcv would help the air in that area to move at a slower pace so oil could be "dropped out" before getting sucked up. same theory as a catch can really.

[leegreen]

If you are going to put some engine mount failure redundancy in, it looks like you could do a metal strap or rod from crossmember to catch the top of the engine plate like this:


Just need to watch alternator clearance.

If not there then perhaps at rear mount although that area is probably busy with pedals, MC and exhaust. A cable or webbing strap from bellhousing or trans bolt to frame might work.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

If not there then perhaps at rear mount although that area is probably busy with pedals, MC and exhaust. A cable or webbing strap from bell housing or trans bolt to frame might work.

Given that I removed the stomp starter mechanism, I have two nice bolt holes on the top drivers side of the bell housing that I can get to.

[TX3100Guy]

More progress yesterday and today. Headers and entire exhaust system (ceramic coated) was installed (except for tail pipes). Now both the compressor and alternator and their bracket have been installed along with the three v-belts necessary to run the super charger, compressor, water pump, and alternator.

[dsraven]

looks great. nice job on the assembly too. excellent attention to detail, not even a fingerprint visible.