1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy

[pjmoreland]

Started installing the front brakes. Didn't make it very far though because the hoses are too short. It doesn't make sense though since I've got stock suspension. Got these hoses from LMC. Went to Napa and O'Reilly and their hoses are exactly the same. They need to be about 2" longer.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Started installing the front brakes. Didn't make it very far though because the hoses are too short. It doesn't make sense though since I've got stock suspension. Got these hoses from LMC. Went to Napa and O'Reilly and their hoses are exactly the same. They need to be about 2" longer.

Was the rig lifted?

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Wa the rig lifted?

I think these are stock leaf springs, but I don't know for sure.

[pjmoreland]

Dumb mistake. I just needed to rotate the caliper end 90 degrees so that the hose faces upward.

[CUSTOM/10]

See what they look like once you get some weight on the springs, motor, Transmission & transfer case.
I'm having the same issue but with 2" lift , and 23" lines that are supposed to fit.
Just barely at full lock left & right.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

See what they look like once you get some weight on the springs, motor, Transmission & transfer case.
I'm having the same issue but with 2" lift , and 23" lines that are supposed to fit.
Just barely at full lock left & right.

Good point. The weight of the drivetrain will help. I'm a little concerned about what the hose might look like at full lock during articulation on uneven ground, but it will probably be ok.

[CUSTOM/10]

Yeah and at full droop will they pull tight. Thats my concern...

[pjmoreland]

Installed front and rear brake hoses and new stainless brake and fuel lines today. I'm missing the bracket that secures the rear driver side hard line to one of the diff cover bolts. I'll either track one down or make one.

[pjmoreland]

Also today one issue I ran into was that the banjo bolts that came with the new calipers were too short (7/8" long), and especially with the thick copper washers that came with the calipers. I couldn't find any longer banjo bolts for sale locally, so I cleaned up and used the originals (1" long) along with the thinner copper washers that came with the hoses..

[pjmoreland]

Picked up some red oak from the local hardwood store for the bed floor.

[pjmoreland]

The original clutch pedal on this truck had an over-center helper spring since the pedal support has the upper mount for the spring. I will be going with a diaphragm clutch, so an over-center spring won't be needed. I replaced the pedal support with one that doesn't have the provision for the spring, and I added a clutch pedal to it. Disassembled and greased the bushings.

[pjmoreland]

Installed the brake booster and a Bendix combination valve I had rebuilt. Discovered that the lines I have for connecting the MC to the valve are not compatible with the Delco Moraine MC I have. I guess I need to track down an elusive Bendix 18M1036 MC.

[pjmoreland]

Ordered an ACDelco 18M1036 master cylinder from Summit, and it ended up being the type that they show in the photo instead of the single-bail style member samkost received from multiple sources. I was just going to use the single-bail style, but I was pleasantly surprised to receive the two-bail style instead. I cleaned it thoroughly and painted it this evening.

[pjmoreland]

Installed the new master cylinder. Had to shorten the booster rod by 1/8". Chucked it in a drill and shaped a new round end on it with a sanding wheel. The little lines from the master cylinder to the combination valve needed quite a bit of tweaking.

Also painted a little clip I received in the mail today that secures a brake line to the rear diff cover. Thanks again , 1970cstblazer, for finding that for me!

['68OrangeSunshine]

I wonder why Brake Master Cylinders are unpainted when received new?
I guess because brake fluid is sometimes used as paint stripper.
However, I wish I'd had the foresight to paimt my master cylinders when I got them, so they wouldn't have a heavy beard of rust now.

Part of the problem, is the local custom [in Tucson] to leave the hood Up, when not in use, to make it a less hospitable nesting space for packrats. Thus engine assemblies, fan belts, radiator hoses, master cylinder, etc. are exposed to rapacious Sunlight.

[pjmoreland]

It is definitely a but of a hassle to avoid damaging paint on a master cylinder. I painted the MC on my other truck a few years ago, and it has held up well. I did have to touch it up early on where some fluid leaked past the lid seal. Eastwood sells some paint that is supposed to hold up against brake fluid. I suspect that might be what my rebuilt combination valve is painted with.

[pjmoreland]

I bled my brakes today. I used a reverse bleeder which pumps fluid up from the wheels. Worked quite well, and I got a firm pedal right away without even bench bleeding the master cylinder.

I discovered a leak in the front of the combination valve where the little reset button is located. I had this combination valve rebuilt by White Post, and it wasn't cheap, so I am disappointed. I replaced it with a used combination valve I got from an '80s C10 that looks basically the same.

I also installed the clip that I got that secures the rear brake line to the diff cover.

[pjmoreland]

Today I also fixed an issue that I ran into once before when converting a '67 I used to own to power brakes. The brake pedal rod was about 3/4" too short, so I added a hex coupling to it. I have no idea what causes this issue. The bellcrank mechanism in the booster bracket is very close to touching the firewall, so it's not a matter of the mechanism being too far forward. I've now got the pedal arm just barely touching the rubber bump stop, and I've got about 1/16" of clearance between the booster rod and the master cylinder.

[pjmoreland]

I also started installing the parking brake cables today. Got the front cable lubed up so that it slides freely. The clamp that secures it to the pedal assembly was missing, so I installed a reproduction clamp. Also installed a new firewall grommet. Stretched it over the end of the cable instead of slicing it.

Ran into an issue where the intermediate cable I bought (Dorman C92423) was too short by about 3". This cable measures at 61.5", which agrees with the GM parts catalog. Not sure what's going on there, but I found a Dorman C660926 or Raybestos BC96894 that is 64.88" long, so I will be ordering one of those. It's for a 2008 Ford F-250 Super Duty 4X4 158.0" wheelbase truck.

[Ol Blue K20]

You've been busy, it's looking great!

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

You've been busy, it's looking great!

Thanks, Dale. I'm looking forward to warmer weather in the coming months.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Thanks, Dale. I'm looking forward to warmer weather in the coming months.

Me too!!

['68OrangeSunshine]

I replaced the E/Brake on my '71 Blue Jimmy last summer. Total PIA. Took over a week to figure it all out. Had to re-use some OEM parts, as LMC's chinesium wasn't right. A case of trial and error. Assemble/disassemble/reassemble/etc. until it finally worked right. The length of the LMC Cable was within 2 - 3'' of the original. I was able to adjust on the long threaded rod directly under the Driver's Left Foot underneath.
Quite happy with the results now.

Of course a K/1500 '71 GMC Jimmy 4x4 has the Foot Pedal/Toggle release system of the 69/72 variety. My '68 C/10 Stepside with the Mare's Leg pull handle/ Trigger release, is different on the inside cab, but I'd bet the undersurface arangement is similar. The Orange Stepside's E/Brake cable is original, and you have to pull the handle way out for it to grip.

The Jimmy's OEM cable flat out broke the end off in the cab. I should R&R the Stepside's cable before it goes...

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I replaced the E/Brake on my '71 Blue Jimmy last summer. Total PIA. Took over a week to figure it all out. Had to re-use some OEM parts, as LMC's chinesium wasn't right. A case of trial and error. Assemble/disassemble/reassemble/etc. until it finally worked right. The length of the LMC Cable was within 2 - 3'' of the original. I was able to adjust on the long tnreaded rod directly under the Driver's Left Foot underneath.
Quite happy with the results now.
Of course a K/1500 '71 GMC Jimmy 4x4 has the Foot Pedal/Toggle release system of the 69/72 variety. My '68 C/10 Stepside with the Mare's Leg pull handle/ Trigger release, is different on the inside cab, but I'd bet the undersurface arangement is similar. The Orange Stepside's E/Brake cable is original, and you have to pull the handle way out for it to grip.
The Jimmy's OEM cable flat out broke the end off in the cab. I should R&R the Stepside's cable before it goes...

My orange stepside still has all of its original cables, too, and there's no evidence of any fraying or other issues anywhere on them. I like the pull handle with trigger.

On the '71, the front cable and the two rear cables are the originals, I believe. The intermediate cable was badly frayed and had a repair clamp on it when I got the truck. You can see it in the photo below. The right side frame rail hanger was missing, and one of the frame rail small pigtail hangers was missing, too. I have acquired the two missing pieces, but it could be that the hanger isn't the right length. If it's too short, then that would explain why the intermediate cable I got doesn't reach. If the Ford F-250 intermediate cable I ordered doesn't work, then I'll fab a longer frame hanger to make the shorter cable reach.

[1970cstblazer]

As much as I detest Inl**e T**e, they seem to carry the right parking brake cables for these trucks.