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Old 09-02-2004, 11:28 PM   #1
skokie
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Engine Building

Well after some consideration I have decided that I want to build a stock 327 for my 68. Minus getting the block, heads, pistons etc sent to a machine shop and magnafluxed, honed etc would this be something that someone who has never built an engine be able to do?

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Old 09-03-2004, 12:01 AM   #2
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What automotive work have you done, valve regrind, replaced intake manifold?
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Old 09-03-2004, 12:08 AM   #3
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Intake manifold , changed form long to short waterpump, hei distributor, new tranny valve body and vac modulator.

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Old 09-03-2004, 12:28 AM   #4
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You might have a chance. Got the factory shop manual, or a good Glenns or Chiltons, and somebody to call if you run into something your not sure about.
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Old 09-03-2004, 12:34 AM   #5
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I'd say yes skokie, it would be a great learning experience. If you run into something your unsure of (even small) just be sure to get experienced advice/help. Some of my friends are wicked smart engine builders with great attitudes (helps alot) and of course this board is a great resource for info as well. Doug
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Old 09-03-2004, 12:36 AM   #6
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I have the factory shop manual and the assembly manuals. Is there any special tools I will need?
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Old 09-03-2004, 07:14 AM   #7
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Torque wrench
taps and dies
ring compressor
valve spring compressor
engine stand
hoist
air compressor with blow gun

I'm sure there's more that I'm not thinking of.

Have you considered a Goodwrench 350,4 bolt main,crate engine with 50k mile warranty for 1200 bucks? Then, you can look people right in the eye and tell them it's a 327, they'll never know any difference. All your stuff will bolt right on it and it will look like a 327 from the outside.
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Old 09-03-2004, 11:33 AM   #8
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Yep I have thought of that but and this may sound crazy. I would know that its not a 327. Also I have never done this sort of thing and I think it would be a good way to learn also I have a excuse to go buy more toys (tools).
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Old 09-03-2004, 01:59 PM   #9
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Perfect reason!
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Old 09-03-2004, 02:05 PM   #10
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two big differences in the Gm goodwrench 350 and a real 327. One and a very major giveaway would be the center bolt valve covers. Also when you mash the pedal. A 350 runs out of steam sooner than a short stoke 327. Go for the 327, it will be alot of fun building it and also be a little different than all the other trucks you will run across.

All this coming from a guy who really likes the old 327. So I am biased.
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Old 09-03-2004, 04:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter
Torque wrench
taps and dies
ring compressor
valve spring compressor
engine stand
hoist
air compressor with blow gun

I'm sure there's more that I'm not thinking of.
Engine stand, engine hoist floor jack, ajck stands, Ridge cutter, Grover Cleaner, ring grinder, platic gauge, dial gauge, cam installer cam timming wheel, valve spring compressor, ring compressor, several tubes of assembly lube......... ah just have a good machine shop do the bottom end for you, I thin kthey charged me like 100 bucks to install crank and pistions. You will spend as much on one time use tools than the work!
Just my opinion.
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You can stil ldo the assmebly.
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Old 09-03-2004, 04:18 PM   #12
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I was going to build my 327 with the help of a machinist neighbor friend. The neighbor friend never had time to help me. I chickened out and ran out of time so I had my machine shop assemble it for me. I have no regrets but it did cost some more in the end. Do you have a good shop to work in? That was one of my problems too.

If it were me I'd find a tired beater 350 and at least tear it down/play with it and get familiar with things before I tore into a good 327.
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Old 09-03-2004, 04:30 PM   #13
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I may have the machine shop do the lower ends but I will request to watch them do it if that is possible. If not then there has to be a book out there somewhere that you can buy that will show you how to do this. As far as space goes If I clean my garage out I can get a space thats about 10 ft / 8 ft Maybe even more. Plus I have some shelves that I am not using that I could use for storage of the parts until I can install them.
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Old 09-03-2004, 04:31 PM   #14
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Just thought of something here. What kind of pistons are in a stock 327?

Thanks
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Old 09-03-2004, 05:55 PM   #15
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SMOKIE 55-

The 1200 dollar 4 bolt Goodwrench engine uses the same old fashioned 4 perimeter bolt valve covers as every other small block built from 1957 through 1986.
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Old 09-03-2004, 06:12 PM   #16
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That book that may help you is "Build the Smallblock Chevy", found at most bookstores in the Automotive section (at least where I live).
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Old 09-03-2004, 06:38 PM   #17
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I think I found it.

http://www.powells.com/cgi-bin/bibli...2-0760310963-0
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Old 09-03-2004, 07:04 PM   #18
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i think a shop would let you watch. maybe not on the machining part but you should be able to set up a time to help/watch them assemble it. the most fun i had with my motor was the heads. i borrowed a spring compressor and took them apart and removed all of the burrs and hogged them out alittle. all of the valve seats looked real good except the one i nicked when porting but the local head shop did a 3 angle valve grind on that one seat for free, guess i got lucky
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Old 09-03-2004, 07:12 PM   #19
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Never use a ridge cutter on an engine block maybe a briggs and stratton but not a car engine.

I suggest getting a book called building the small block chevy by david vizard There are a few things in there that im not too crazy about but otherwise is a very good book with plenty of illustrations and good procedures .

http://www.angeleentshirt.com/chevy_engine.htm

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Old 09-03-2004, 11:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Never use a ridge cutter on an engine block maybe a briggs and stratton but not a car engine.

I have rebuilt lots of engines in the last 25 or so years, and have used a ridge reamer quite a bit without any problems. In my expirience you can't hone a ridge away, and unless you are gonna punch it out the ridge has to go away somehow.

Dan
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Old 09-04-2004, 08:59 AM   #21
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The book recommended by 1972C10 is an excellent reference "How to rebuild your Small Block Chevy". It has a short history of the sbc and contains a list of head and block casting numbers too... Rebuilding from start to finish, including break-in.
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Old 09-04-2004, 10:47 AM   #22
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I would definetly re-build the 327!! don't let that great motor go to waste. A 327 will out run a 350 any day, keep it.
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Old 09-04-2004, 12:30 PM   #23
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I Dont Belive in ridge reaming If the cylinder is worn that much why waste money rigging it up do it right get it bored have a fresh cylinder , Ive always been told that ridge reamers ruin a block also.
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Old 09-04-2004, 12:52 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1972C10
I Dont Belive in ridge reaming If the cylinder is worn that much why waste money rigging it up do it right get it bored have a fresh cylinder , Ive always been told that ridge reamers ruin a block also.
WITHOUT REAMING (IF YOUR CYL. WALLS HAVE A RIDGE) YOU WILL DESTROY THE ORIGINAL PISTONS,(THE LANDS IN BETWEEN THE RING GROOVES WILL BE BENT) BEFORE YOU HAVE A CHANCE TO INSPECT THE CYL. WALLS OR PISTONS, TO SEE IF THEY CAN BE REUSED. WHEN YOU USE A RIDGE REAMER, ALL YOU NEED TO REMOVE IS THE CARBON BUILDUP (OR RIDGE) NOT A 1/16" OF CAST IRON. EXPERIANCE TELLS ME RIDGE REAMERS DO NOT RUIN BLOCKS IF USED PROPERLY. THIS IS NOT ADVISE THAT I'VE BEEN TOLD, BUT INSTEAD THE RESULT OF EXPERIANCE. SORRY BIG DADDY DON.... BUT I'LL HAVE TO CALL ON THIS LITTLE TIDBIT OF ADVISE ANYONE WITH A MODERATE AMOUNT OF MECHANICAL ABIULITY, & A PRETTY GOOD IDEA OF HOW A INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE OPERATES CAN REBUILD A MOTOR JOHN
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Old 09-04-2004, 01:10 PM   #25
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skokie- I agree,the book by David Vizard called "how to rebuild your small block chevy" is very good........walks you through what you need to know! Also,I've used a ridge reamer when disassembling motors with no trouble at all.
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