Engine pull

[toddtheodd]

I got my engine hoist now sooooooooo... motor will have to come out and be "gone through".
Now I know I bolt the chain to the block.
Disconnect all wires and cables and hoses.
Support the transmission.
Unbolt the 4 (???) bolts on the bell housing (th350 by the way).
Unblot the motor mounts.
......
Then what.
How does the torque converter come off.
How does it go back together? Somebody said something about making sure to "push the torque convert all the way up into the transmission", but from I under stand the torque converter is bolted to the flexplate (???) and the flexplate is bolted to the crank, which obviously doesn't move back and forth, so what would it matter? Seems like bolting the bellhousing back up to the block would put everything back into position.

Ahhhhhh... nothing like a learning experience. Which I am sure this is going to turn out being.

Todd

[JimKshortstep4x4]

The torque converter is held to the flex plate with three 3/8" bolts. You will want to remove them and make sure the torque converter is free so that it does not follow the engine out, (you will get a mess).

I would suggest removing the two 3/8 NPT block plugs so as to drain the coolant out of the engine. There is one on either side of the block. Crude builds up underneath so you might have to poke the hole to make the antifreeze come out.

Make sure the exhaust pipes are completly disconnected and the flanges are off of the studs. Unclip the tranny lines from the oil pan line clip.

I believe that Longhorn wrote up a procedure with pics, but I am not sure if it is finished.

Good luck!

Jim

[GMC AMI]

There are 6 bolts on the tranny. When reinstalling make sure TC is all the way back in the tranny, most likely you will have to rotate as you push back. If not and you try to bolt up tranny to engine the TC will bind up and you will not be able to turn to rebolt the TC to the fly wheel. The TC slides over a double spline shaft and has to be fully in place before reassembly. Then after the joining the TC is slid forward
and bolted in place.

[toddtheodd]

OK.
And for the engine stand do I need to buy bolts or do I use the transmission bolts to bolt the engine to the stand.
Also, do I need to remove the flexplate before bolting engine to stand, or can it be left attached?

[GMC AMI]

You may use them depending on spacer length of stand arms. Flat washers can take up space if needed. Make sure bolts are inserted far enough into engine. The flexplate can stay.
If taking crankshaft out, remove it before mounting on stand.

[toddtheodd]

Make sure bolts are inserted far enough into engine.

How far is far enough? 2 inches? 3?

[Tx Firefighter]

1/2 inch is far enough.

I've never seen an engine stand that used short enough bolts to allow you to use the bellhousing bolts. You'll need to measure the ears on your engine stand and add a half inch or 3/4 inch to the measurement and buy 4 bolts that length at the hardware store.

They are 3/8-16 bolts by the way.

Don't worry about the torque converter. Just unbolt the three bolts and push it back towards the transmission as far as you can, and leave it there. There's no need to remove the converter from the trans and spill fluid everywhere.

[toddtheodd]

Okey dokey.
So unless there are any other little time saving tips that you guys know about (no I'm not going to pull the trans too...) I've pretty much got it.
Todd

[WRMZ71]

definitely do not pull the torque converter with the engine. They are a pain in the butt to line up on the tranny when the tranny is sitting on the ground let alone connected to an engine trying to bolt up to the tranny in the truck. Another good idea is probably make sure and get grade 8 bolts when bolting your engine to the stand. They will more than likely bend a little bit but they shouldn't brake. A good idea also if you can find one or i've even seen people make them are using lift plates that bolt down to the intake where the carbuerator does. This just puts a hook right on top of the engine so you don't have to worry about weird angles and the sort using the chain on opposite sides of the motor technique. careful of the windshield and good luck

[junkyardjohn]

WOW TODD THE ODD... JUST A COUPLE OF DAYS AGO YOU WERE BERATING PEOPLE FOR NOT USING PROPER ENGLISH ON THIS BOARD, & NOW YOU WANT SOME ADVICE??? WOW.. IT'S A GOOD THING MOST OF THE PEOPLE ON HERE ARE JUST GOOD OLD BOYS THAT WILL OVERLOOK SUCH RUDE BEHAVIOR. GOOD LUCK. JOHN

[toddtheodd]

Another good idea is probably make sure and get grade 8 bolts

A while back I had read about grade 8 bolts, and how superior they were to what was originally on the motor. Since then I have been using grade 8's for everything. It is also really easy for me to get grade 8's so that also helps out a lot. Except for the main bearing caps and the heads, I'm slowing replacing every bolt with grade 8. The heads and caps with get ARP studs of course.
Todd

[Sweet72]

Todd, There's no need to get crazy with the grade 8's. They have a purpose as do the gr. 5's and gr. 3's. As for the studs, ARP or OE bolts are just as good (IMO) and cheaper.
Grade 5's to bolt the engine to the stand are plenty strong. Good luck with the engine project.

[jakeslim]

Originally Posted by toddtheodd

A while back I had read about grade 8 bolts, and how superior they were to what was originally on the motor. Since then I have been using grade 8's for everything. It is also really easy for me to get grade 8's so that also helps out a lot. Except for the main bearing caps and the heads, I'm slowing replacing every bolt with grade 8. The heads and caps with get ARP studs of course.
Todd

I do the same. Orchard hardware here on the West Coast has every size you'd ever need and cheap too! Plus the coating on them seems to inhibit rusting. I was worrried the first time I used my stand, just did not seem like four bolts could hold the motor from one end. I still don't trust them(new grade 8's).

[toddtheodd]

A good idea also if you can find one or i've even seen people make them are using lift plates that bolt down to the intake where the carbuerator does.

Stupid question: Can an aluminum intake handle the weight of the motor if I go this route?
Todd

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by toddtheodd

Stupid question: Can an aluminum intake handle the weight of the motor if I go this route?
Todd

YES...., that's a 454, with a turbo 400 there, all hanging off of an Edelbrock Perofrmer intake manifold and one of those lift plates.

[GMC AMI]

The lift plate is OK, however if you plan on doing more than couple of engine I would invest in a Summit load leveler. They work great, tip any angle while pulling and helps more when reinstalling! I would not go back to a lift plate after useing mine for 15 years, gave the lifting plate away.