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Old 11-27-2004, 08:43 PM   #1
BaggedC10
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Arrow Surface rust on frame and making a SWB...???

Well, I'll be picking up a LWB 78' C10 frame w/ surface rust next week. Go figure, rust in California. This time around, I'm going to have the frame painted. In the mean time, I have to do some fabrication and it would be nice to have a clean, rust free frame to work on.

Should I have the frame sandblasted and primed? I've never dealt w/ rust before, so any advice/tips would be appreciated. When said and done, I want the frame to be smooth like the exterior sheetmetal.

Also, does anyone have an article explaining how exactly to shorten a LWB frame and make it a SWB? If not, I'll be building a long bed. Which is fine w/ me because they are more rare in the custom truck scene.

Thanks.
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Old 11-27-2004, 11:09 PM   #2
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glock35ipsc did an awesome article on how he did his frame. Of course it helps that he has a shop full of the right tools and knows how to weld like a pro. Take a look here-How to shorten a LWB frame

Keep in mind that this is for a 68 frame so you will have to adjust some of the deminsions....
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Old 11-27-2004, 11:14 PM   #3
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i hear that you can brush por-15 on and it sticks better where there is rust its supposed to be pretty tough stuff too
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Old 11-28-2004, 12:50 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastbay
i hear that you can brush por-15 on and it sticks better where there is rust its supposed to be pretty tough stuff too
I've used POR-15 before and am not very impressed w/ it. I want a show quality frame, so it will be painted by a professional.

Thanks for the link, Ken.
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Old 11-28-2004, 12:55 AM   #5
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Just got done viewing that link. WOW, is all I can say. Talk about a top notch job!

BTW, my new frame looks no worse (As far as rust goes) than his. Just to give you guys an idea of what I'm up against.
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Old 11-28-2004, 01:08 AM   #6
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Dan, If I were you I would have the frame sandblasted. IMO, that is the best and most economical way to get rid of all the rust. I had my frame sandblasted, eopxied, and painted all by the same shop. As long as your frame isn't pitted terribly bad, it should turn out real nice. Here is a link to some on my site as well as a pic just to show you how nice it turned out...

http://www.73-87.com/my_truck/mytruck.htm
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Old 11-28-2004, 01:17 AM   #7
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Your chassis is what started my passion for a "perfect" chassis, Jeff. My backhalfed frame was sandblasted before being powdercoated but it wasn't rusted. That's my main reason for asking this question. To see what I should expect.
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Old 11-29-2004, 07:03 AM   #8
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To shorten the LWB frame take 14" out of the middle, come 1.5" off the rear cab mounts, and 1.5" off where the first bed crossmember is. That will give you 14" between. Then another 4" (I think, cant find my sheet right now) will have to come off the end of the frame. I still have the pieces of the frame, so I will measure it after it gets light out!

One day..I'll write it up for jeff and send him the pics for his site. Been way to busy trying to get it somewhat reliable so I can enjoy it.

Bagged.....Why didnt you like the powdercoating? I"m fixing to get a SWB frame to start on for mine and was thinking of having in powdercoated when the time came. I dont know anyone who has done it, so just looking for some opinions.

Last edited by bluex; 11-29-2004 at 07:05 AM.
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Old 11-29-2004, 11:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluex
To shorten the LWB frame take 14" out of the middle, come 1.5" off the rear cab mounts, and 1.5" off where the first bed crossmember is. That will give you 14" between. Then another 4" (I think, cant find my sheet right now) will have to come off the end of the frame. I still have the pieces of the frame, so I will measure it after it gets light out!

One day..I'll write it up for jeff and send him the pics for his site. Been way to busy trying to get it somewhat reliable so I can enjoy it.

Bagged.....Why didnt you like the powdercoating? I"m fixing to get a SWB frame to start on for mine and was thinking of having in powdercoated when the time came. I dont know anyone who has done it, so just looking for some opinions.


Thanks for those "rough" numbers.

Powdercoat is nice but I prefer paint. It's easier to repair and in many cases, more durable from my experience. My old frame was the foundation for a show truck. This time around, my truck may serve as my daily driver. More incentive to have it painted because ease of repair.
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Old 11-29-2004, 12:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluex
Then another 4" (I think, cant find my sheet right now) will have to come off the end of the frame.
I was thinking it was 6", but let us know. I can't remember either....

BTW, this is my opinion, but don't get it sandblasted until you are ready to paint it. Do everything you want to do to it now get it completely ready to put back together with whatever you want and then get it blasted and painted.

BTW, I blasted mine then POR15'd it, waited 30 minutes and put Chassis black on it.
POR15 only


GLOSS Black over POR15.



http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/rolling_bck.jpg
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/rolling_frt.jpg
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/rolling_side.jpg
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Old 11-29-2004, 04:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaggedC10
Thanks for those "rough" numbers.

Powdercoat is nice but I prefer paint. It's easier to repair and in many cases, more durable from my experience. My old frame was the foundation for a show truck. This time around, my truck may serve as my daily driver. More incentive to have it painted because ease of repair.

Cool, I'm planning on mine being just a fair weather cruiser/show someday and was thinking powdercoat was gonna be nice b/c its hard to break/scratch.

The middle numbers are exact. I know b/c I measured them at least 4 times on 3 different days. I just went and measured the end piece of the frame and I took of 5.5". I did that by setting the SB on the frame and just cutting off what I needed to get it to sit down flat. If you go 6" you wont have room to put the last bed bolts. Also you will have to move the rear most x-member up to where it would be on a SB. The holes are already there you just have to remove the rivits and bolt it back up in the right spot. Then one of the old holes for that member will be the last bed bolt. Doing it this way I have a 1.25" gap between the bed and the cab which seems to be the norm on all the trucks and the correct 117.5" wheelbase.
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Old 11-29-2004, 06:37 PM   #12
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hey how much does the frame weigh with nothing on it thanks
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Old 11-29-2004, 07:19 PM   #13
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It'll be fairly heavy... They are fairly thick peices of steel. I'd guess 2 - 4 hundred lbs...
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Old 11-29-2004, 07:53 PM   #14
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how much does a shortbed weigh could i lift it off with 2 people?
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Old 11-29-2004, 08:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastbay
hey how much does the frame weigh with nothing on it thanks


Not very much. I would guess around 175-pounds or so. Nothing one person can't move w/o some grunt.

Two people can remove a SWB bed w/ the tailgate removed but I would recommend 3 people.
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Old 11-29-2004, 08:46 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captkaos
I was thinking it was 6", but let us know. I can't remember either....

BTW, this is my opinion, but don't get it sandblasted until you are ready to paint it. Do everything you want to do to it now get it completely ready to put back together with whatever you want and then get it blasted and painted.

BTW, I blasted mine then POR15'd it, waited 30 minutes and put Chassis black on it.


Thanks for the advice, Chris.

I was going to install my ART parallel 4-link but have decided to go w/ the KP Components bolt-on 4-link w/ cantilever attatchment. As a result, the only fabrication will be installing a fuel cell. I'll install the 4-link/attatchment after having the frame painted. Just have to be careful.....
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Old 11-29-2004, 10:23 PM   #17
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i must have missed it, what happened to your backhalved frame?
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Old 11-29-2004, 11:58 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low 84
i must have missed it, what happened to your backhalved frame?
I was just wondering the same thing, that thing was awesome, what happened??????
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:17 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low 84
i must have missed it, what happened to your backhalved frame?


I just feel the need for change.....as usual.

Actually, I want a more "daily driver" friendly vehicle. I don't doubt that my truck would have been reliable and trouble-free but I would worry about it 24/7. It was becoming too nice to drive daily. This truck will be a daily driven show truck and will see occasional use (Trip to Home Depot, etc.).
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:48 AM   #20
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so did you sell the backhalved frame or you saving it for later?
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Old 11-30-2004, 02:37 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaggedC10
This truck will be a daily driven show truck and will see occasional use (Trip to Home Depot, etc.).
There ya go! Build something you won't worry about driving up/down the valley to truck g2g's
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Old 11-30-2004, 05:01 AM   #22
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There ya go! Build something you won't worry about driving up/down the valley to truck g2g's


I still have the balls to bag' it! :p

Low 84---I sold the frame already.
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