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#1 |
Blue 67
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,178
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How to fix this interior paint
Hey everybody:
I hope everybody is having good weekend. My wife doesn't want to ride in my truck because it looks old and worn down!. Well, I guess she is entitle to her opinion but I thought if I clean up my truck she may change her mind. Besides, my truck needs more attention anyways. It is my hobby too, therefore lets kill few birds with one stone!. Ok, I got a little side track! sorry. The point is, I can't take my truck to body shop at this point because of the cost. I thought you guys give me some easy and low cost ideas how to fix this interior paint. I was thinking just sand it, prime it and paint it with spray paint from Brothers. It this practical idea? if yes, give me some material info since I don't know anything about painting ( sand material, primers, etc). If no, plaese give me your input in regard how to fix it. By the way, I didn't know if I should post this thread here or at paint section. Thanks for all inputs. Nima |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Knoxville Tenn.
Posts: 3,058
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Use drill with a wire brush to remove all loose stuff. Hand sand with about 320 paper. Wipe every thing down with paint thinner. Prime bare spots. Lightly sand primed spots. Go to parts store and buy rattle can paint of your color.
Here a photo of mine after changing from green to black with spray can paint:
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56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer Last edited by jhow66; 12-11-2004 at 02:18 PM. |
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#3 | |
Still drivin' a Rat Rod
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Monett Missouri
Posts: 4,925
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Quote:
![]() ![]() You can skip the drill and wire brush and just sand it out if ya want.Make sure you use a good quality rattle can.I personally like Krylon,it is a good paint at a good price.I have tried the walmart buck a can stuff,and it takes forever to cure,and leaves a thin coat,you get what you pay for.
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Rusty Member #13872 Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the *a$#* 71 GMC LWB 49 Chevy 85 Chevy G20 Check out my website |
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#4 |
Blue 67
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,178
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Looks nice jhow66. Thanks
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: saskatoon, planet earth
Posts: 691
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I'd agree with the brainy one. A couple hours ( if that) of hand sanding, mask off what you don't want sprayed and a few rattle cans will make a HUGE differnce. Tight spots can be a chore to sand, I use s peice of sponge wrapped in sandpaper for grooves & stuff, works good. A little elbow grease, a few cans of paint, and a couple beers & the wife will never recognize the beast. Youll be happier too. Throw on a new seat cover and fer under a hundred you'll be stylin. Good luck.
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
Posts: 1,836
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The recommendations above sound great if you want to match colors. In fact, you could have a paint shop fill a rattle can with paint matching your interior color. But if you just want to stop the rust until you strip down the truck to do a full-on paint job, inside and out, I recommend just brushing on some gray POR15 (or any moisture curing coating) after converting the surface rust:
1. Remove the seat and floormats/carpets. 2. Lay waterproof tarp in interior. 3. Hand, not drill, wire brush the rust spots. POR15 seals better after hand wire brushing. Drill wire brushing creates heat and fills the pores of the metal that POR15 needs to bond to after etching. 4. Clean with Marine Clean (or any non-solvent based paint prep chemical or degreaser). 5. Wash off cleanser with water spray. Be sure tarp is positioned well for coverage of interior. 6. Wait till bone dry. 7. Spray on Metal Ready (or any zinc phosphate). Keep wetted for 20 minutes. Be sure tarp is positioned well for coverage of interior. 8. Spray off with GENTLE water spray for short spurts. Zinc phosphate cannot proerly convert rust if a strong water stream washed all of it away. Zinc phosphate just needs a little water sprayed on it to start the conversion process. Use light pressure thru a nozzle's fan setting. Be sure tarp....ah, you know the drill. ![]() 9. Wait till bone dry. Mask as needed while waiting for complete drying. 10. Brush on POR 15 (or moisture curing paint). 11. When POR15 is tacky, brush on another coat. Optional: 12. Wait 24hrs for POR15 to cure (it dries in 3-6 hrs). 13. Scuff POR 15 with around 600 grit. 14. Prime. After primer dries, rough up, if necessary. 15. Paint with interior color. I did this last summer to the inside roof of my TravelAll that had rust spots. It has a headliner that will cover up the paint spots, so I didn't need to paint over the POR15. If you wait to paint the interior, just clean and scuff the POR15 spots so whatever primer/sealer you use will stick to it as well as bare metal. Of course, no worries if you bead blast for for full-on paint prep. ![]()
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. Last edited by 4x4Poet; 12-19-2004 at 05:09 AM. |
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#7 |
Blue 67
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,178
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Thanks a lot 4x4poet for your detailed input. It will help a lot.
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fenelon Falls, ON Canada
Posts: 1,455
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I personally prefer the Bill Hirsch line of rust paints rather than the POR15 line, just personal preference. Their miracle paint is amazing. We use it on our salt covered propane trucks and it lasts for years.
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB
Posts: 3,367
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sand, clean, air dry, paint tremclad autorustpaint!
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