Parking Brakes - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

steve stack · 01-09-2005, 07:41 PM

When a 4 or 6 inch lift is installed, what becomes of the parking brake? I just installed a 6 inch lift on a first gen Blazer and had to disconnect the parking brake because the cables are too short. I don't want to loose the functionality of the parking brake, but I'm not too sure what to do. Any suggestions?

**JIMs70GMC** · 01-09-2005, 08:44 PM

I was thinking of moving all the brackets to the bottom of the frame but the rear yoke of the transfer case poses a problem. I was thinking of installing rear disc and putting a driveline brake on the rear of the transfer case. The only other thing I can think of is to move the brackets rearward and adjust the ebrake for more slack.

4x4Poet · 01-10-2005, 03:59 AM

I've never examined a Blazer's e-brake cable closely, so I have an opinion based upon my burb's e-brake cables.

Look at the adjustment rod to see how many threads are left. That is your potential adjustment available. If the threaded rod does not have enough adjustment available, you need a longer rod or a longer rear hoop inner wire rope assy. But that's the less troublesome area that probably should be left alone.

The larger concern is the E-brake cable housings coming from the backing plates to the rear E-brake dual frame brackets. If they are too stretched at full droop, you have to use longer rear E-brake housings, either custom made or from another application. Longer housings with also longer inner wire rope assys would like be all the change you'd need since the longer housings would stretch from the backing plate to the rear frame bracket at full droop and the inner wire ropes would reach the oem rear hoop assy ends so the adjustment rod would then have to only move within oem specs.

01-09-2005, 07:41 PM	#1
steve stack Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 4	Parking Brakes When a 4 or 6 inch lift is installed, what becomes of the parking brake? I just installed a 6 inch lift on a first gen Blazer and had to disconnect the parking brake because the cables are too short. I don't want to loose the functionality of the parking brake, but I'm not too sure what to do. Any suggestions?

01-09-2005, 08:44 PM	#2
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	I was thinking of moving all the brackets to the bottom of the frame but the rear yoke of the transfer case poses a problem. I was thinking of installing rear disc and putting a driveline brake on the rear of the transfer case. The only other thing I can think of is to move the brackets rearward and adjust the ebrake for more slack. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

01-10-2005, 03:59 AM	#3
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	I've never examined a Blazer's e-brake cable closely, so I have an opinion based upon my burb's e-brake cables. Look at the adjustment rod to see how many threads are left. That is your potential adjustment available. If the threaded rod does not have enough adjustment available, you need a longer rod or a longer rear hoop inner wire rope assy. But that's the less troublesome area that probably should be left alone. The larger concern is the E-brake cable housings coming from the backing plates to the rear E-brake dual frame brackets. If they are too stretched at full droop, you have to use longer rear E-brake housings, either custom made or from another application. Longer housings with also longer inner wire rope assys would like be all the change you'd need since the longer housings would stretch from the backing plate to the rear frame bracket at full droop and the inner wire ropes would reach the oem rear hoop assy ends so the adjustment rod would then have to only move within oem specs. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. Last edited by 4x4Poet; 01-11-2005 at 12:45 AM.



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