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Old 01-10-2005, 09:47 PM   #1
Piper71c10
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Assume I'm an idiot

It usually works better that way... Anyway, My question is about lowering my '66 fleet. I'm almost done with the new front suspension that will sport drop spindles and 3" drop springs. I'm starting to think about the rear, and am wondering about bagging just the back half.

I still want to use my truck to tow stuff and haul stuff, but it needs to look cooler. Should I bag the ass end? How would that help/improve towing over lowering springs?

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Old 01-10-2005, 10:28 PM   #2
N2TRUX
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If you just want the bags for towing/hauling I would do a static drop, and add a set of helper bags. They work sort of like air shocks, but don't create a harsh ride. They give you as much assist as you need for towing/hauling when aired up, but when not in use they don't affect the ride at all....
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Old 01-10-2005, 11:17 PM   #3
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I will have to politely disagree w/N2TRUX on this one .

I own a 68swb truck that's static dropped 6" up front & has bags + lowering blocks for between 7-8" drop out back. This truck not only rides better than my 5/7" static dropped 74, it will pull that same 74swb on my 18ft car trailer by simply adding a little more air. Why bother w/the dropped coils + helper bags when the bags work effectively by themselves & ride as good as a stock height truck?

You can even fill them independently w/schrader valves to keep the system dirt cheap, adding a comp/tank @ a later date if the need arises.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-10-2005, 11:31 PM   #4
Piper71c10
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ScotI,

That's kind of what I was thinking. Would I just mount a set of bags in the stock spring locations then? I'm assuming that there is some sort of kit out there that allows me to run bags without springs. What kind of drop from that?

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Old 01-10-2005, 11:35 PM   #5
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Bags by themselves will net about 5-6" drop depending on what brand & how much air PSI you run @ ride height.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-10-2005, 11:45 PM   #6
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What is the recommended kit for a guy that want's to bolt it in and run? Where do you guys mount your air tanks to keep 'em outta sight? Any tips on cool as hell engine driven compressors for L6's or is it most electric? What's the typicall install time on a rear only bag kit? Are you using 4 valves for your rear bags to keep the side to side pressure under control?

Sorry bout all the q's, but I figured I'd just take the damn plunge and learn it.

Piper
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Old 01-10-2005, 11:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piper71c10
What is the recommended kit for a guy that want's to bolt it in and run? Where do you guys mount your air tanks to keep 'em outta sight? Any tips on cool as hell engine driven compressors for L6's or is it most electric? What's the typicall install time on a rear only bag kit? Are you using 4 valves for your rear bags to keep the side to side pressure under control?

Sorry bout all the q's, but I figured I'd just take the damn plunge and learn it.

Piper
Check AirRide, AirLift, or Early Classics for install kits. I mounted my tank under the pass side bed-floor w/the comp directly behind it. My bags are manually controlled to simplify things. It does require larger airlines to be ran into the cab. But, there were holes already in the cab floor from the factory so I just had to add some rubber grommets to prevent chafing of the air-lines. I run a single, dual needle gauge to monitor air psi, & it's mounted in a dual paddle controller. One side is for the left rear bag, the other is for the right. Simple, independent control. I keep the controller wrapped in a towel, tucked under the seat as it keeps the line routing hassles to a minimum & just pull it out when needed.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-11-2005, 12:38 AM   #8
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I don't know why I can't seem to remember to pay attention to what year truck the question pertains to. I was thinking about leaf spring rear suspension when I replied.

Scoti is on the right track. My mistake....
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Old 01-11-2005, 05:23 PM   #9
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For the rear you don't need any kit, just bags, drill bits and drill. And plumbing supplies.
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Old 01-12-2005, 01:39 AM   #10
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I am running that set up on my 64, I have 3 inch drop spindles and 3 inch springs, I run each bag independently and fill the with schrader valves{ like a bicycle tube fill} at the rear I actually used them as liscence plate mounts and cover em with chrome cap it was dirt cheap and I ust pump am up at home if I wanna dump em at a show and fill em later I carry a portable with me or just drag tail to the nearest gas station and top em up
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