getting my 67' to hook

[SCOTI]

Browndawg71 . . .... very nice ride. I checked out your TOTM pics & info.

[djracer]

Here's my coilover setup! I bought the tubular upper cross member, shocks and lower mounts from Jegs. I have decided to ditch my small block and put in my 468! I bought a set of merlin heads off of ebay last week! I am going to have to lose the 12 bolt so I am going to put in a 35 spline spool and axles in a nine inch! I bought 2 new doors and a tailgate from Tim Christian yesterday in Moultrie! I am going to pull the smallblock and turbo this weekend and take it to the bodyshop monday!




Brentrs1985 Ladder bars will never hook like trailing arms and coilovers! Someguy had a 40 inch set of custom ladderbars made and he couldn't 60 ft with Tom Durham!

[68c10owner]

looks good. why do you have to ditch the 12 bolt? it`s plenty strong especially if you put a 35 spline spool and axles it it.

[djracer]

oborny71
If you buy tubular control arms don't waste your money on djm stuff! I bought them and they weigh as much or more than stock stuff. I wish I'd have spent the extra money on a fatman's kit!

68c10owner
The nine inch is still stronger and much easier to work on! Plus I already have a nodular center section, aluminun pinion support and the spool!

[SanitysBane]

just a quick question, how long are the trailing arms? and does it matter if its a short or long bed truck?

[djracer]

I haven't measured them but short and longbeds are the same!

[RED67]

Ttt

[RatPwrd72]

Our '67 that has been a best of 10.61 (in 1986!) uses all of the stock rear end components. The front mount for the trailing arms were lowered 6" and a 12 bolt rearend from a 70 something Camaro was installed. We still used the coil spring setup and were able to run a 32x14x15 on a 15x12 wheel with no frame modification. The truck has a tilt frontend (all steel welded up) and the factory stepside. Truck weighs 3400 lbs less driver and had an alcohol injected 396. I need to post up some pics!

[68LSS1]

Originally Posted by RatPwrd72

Our '67 that has been a best of 10.61 (in 1986!) uses all of the stock rear end components. The front mount for the trailing arms were lowered 6" and a 12 bolt rearend from a 70 something Camaro was installed. We still used the coil spring setup and were able to run a 32x14x15 on a 15x12 wheel with no frame modification. The truck has a tilt frontend (all steel welded up) and the factory stepside. Truck weighs 3400 lbs less driver and had an alcohol injected 396. I need to post up some pics!

Lowering the front trailing arm attach point agrees with what the HTH kit has you do. Obviously it works but can you explain the reasoning behind lowering it?

[RatPwrd72]

I believe it was done to follow the same principles that a ladder bar setup follows with having the two arms much lower in the front. We ran the truck with the big tires and the trailing arms in the stock position, but experienced wheel hop. After lowering the arms, no wheel hop and always hooked hard.

[Oborny71]

hmm, i thought moving the trailing arms up would move the instant center to the rear, but i guess its the opposite?

[RatPwrd72]

hmm, i thought moving the trailing arms up would move the instant center to the rear, but i guess its the opposite?

No, the trailing arm mounts in the front were lowered.........

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by RatPwrd72

....We ran the truck with the big tires and the trailing arms in the stock position, but experienced wheel hop. After lowering the arms, no wheel hop and always hooked hard.

Did you adjust the pinion angle after lowering the front mounting points?

[RatPwrd72]

Yes the pinion angle was modified with thin shims between the arms and rear end. Also, the Camaro rear end we used was stock width. We cut off the leaf spring mounts and welded coil pads on it. 396 Kinsler fuel injected, TH-400 manual valve body (5500 stall) and 12 bolt rear with 4.88 gears, spool, and Mark Williams Axles. I'm now wanting to put the truck back to street trim!

[57sailplane]

i emailed tom a long while back. i think he said he was running 150 lbs coil overs. not sure what brand. let me know what you find out. on size and brand because if it works why fix it.

i have done a lot of research in the area of traction. everything i have found out so far i am using to build my 67 shortbox stepside.

what i have found is first put back those stiffer springs in the rear or go with the coil overs. it use to be thought you want squat in the rear but in reality you want rise in the front to transfer weight to the rear. now by putting the those softer springs in the rear you cause chassis roll from front to back and thats what were after but the time period that the rear is squating from starting height to fully squated hite is actually the time were no weight is being transfered. with these soft springs this time frame is the same as a totally stiff set up (no weight transfer) at this point and if the tires break loose to a point of ablitoration during this time you gain nothing. now when the suspension is fully squated this is were the traction begins. all weight movement from the front and inertia is transfered to rear tires. but if the tires are burning off it is to late. some squat is permisable if tire just break loose then hook. but ultimatly you want no squat and front end rise for total bite. you may need the softer spring in back to get the ball a moving but minimum squat is ideal.

now wether you want total bite is another question cause some vehicals run faster with some tire spin cause its dosnt draw the rpms down as much off the line keeping the rpms in the power torque curve..

my set up will be rear coil over set up. with the stiffest antisway bar i can run. i will fine tune the sway of the launch with the coilovers.

now up front this is were the traction is at. you want to put the weakest and tallest sping in there that you can find. moroso posibly.

why you ask. so the front end sags as low as you can without hindering the driving capabilety to much. as far as the tallest. the taller spring keeps on lifting the front of the truck higher than the shorter springs. idealy you want a spring that will be weaker than what you have and make the truck set lower than what it does now but keep on lifting higher than you have now. springs that are taller usally have more coils. springs that are weeker usally are made of thinner wire. you could use a 6 cylender spring. in know on camros this is an ideal set up. but on pickups they may be the same spring. don't heat springs to shorten this is dangerous and is not what we are after.

when drag racing disconet the front swaybar this limets travel. cut off the a-arm rubber stops for more travel. i would remove them if you are going to drag race but for the street/strip leave a little rubber so the font end dosnt bottom out so hard.

as far as moving things to move weight the fuel cell and battery relocation is good idea. moving engine back is also good idea. raising engine will also help, a lot easier weight transfer. but i would first start with the springs before i would move engine. anyway i hope this helps.

again let me know what find out about those coilovers i would know what to use but have not gotton that far in project still fitting in roll cage.



thanks andrew

[57sailplane]

Originally Posted by RatPwrd72

Our '67 that has been a best of 10.61 (in 1986!) uses all of the stock rear end components. The front mount for the trailing arms were lowered 6" I need to post up some pics!

how about those pictures of the 6" lowering. very interested andrew

[57sailplane]

any pictures yet