theft detterant idea...

[67ChevyC10Stepside]

would this work? take a inline blade fuse holder....put it in your HEI wire. blow up a blade fuse and when you are gonna have your truck parked a while put the blown fuse in. it would look perfectly normal unless someone takes fuses out to check them before stealing your truck lol...

[Alexis]

or they can jam a small screw driver in place of the fuse to drive the current.

[67ChevyC10Stepside]

well but i mean what thief is gonna get in your truck be like....hmm that's a fuse holder better check that out lol

[Alexis]

You'd be amazed how smart some car thiefs are........a good thief would just tow your truck away. I say it's a shot but why not run a switch instead?

[67ChevyC10Stepside]

well i thought if they find the switch they would know what it is...they see a fuse down under the dash nothing would look out of place....

[Mixup]

I think the fuse idea is a good one but I've seen a push button switch behind the cig lighter. When you push it in the truck won't start. Thats ok unless the thief smokes and tries to use it.

[Russell]

What I planned to go was set up a "kill" switch under the dash (just on the upper lip of the bottom of the dash on the inside) that sets off a home made alarm system if it is hit

Bascially, I'm gonna find a relay that turns on and stays on when the switch on the inside is flicked on, even if you flick the switch off again, or cut the wire. Set this up so it provides power to the horns through a momentary flasher like a signal light flasher. Then, to turn it off, have another switch inside of the engine compartment somewhere that you flick to set the relay to the off position Have all of the wiring for the setup & the relay blended in with the TPI wiring, so he cannot readily identify the alarm setup's wiring

Then, have the real kill switch somewhere like behind the seat or something :p

Some theif comes in, cranks the truck, won't start, looks for a kill switch, hits it, and the truck starts honking and doesn't stop, even after he turns the switch back off, or cuts the wires to it :p And yeah, the horns on my truck arn't exactly quiet, lol

Biggest issue would be with how a guy could set up the horns so he cannot simply cut the wire to the horn... Prehaps a guy can extend the horn wiring and run it through the core support / fenders so it is not easily accessed

[SweetandLong68]

I am going to charge up the digi-cam and take some pics of what the PO (my cousin) did to the 72 C-10 that I just bought off of him....Glad he told me about them They are simple ideas but work quite effectively really...

I will get some pics.

lata
CHRIS

[69 Short Fleet]

I just (tonight) installed a dummy flashing LED light under the ignition switch (to the left) in an exsisting hole I had previously drilled. I installed a 330 ohm resistor inline on the + side of it and wired that into the cig lighter spade on the fusebox, and ran a temp aligator clip to bare metal on the other. It works very good (nice and bright) however I would like to change the location of it somewhere higher & more visable. I'm still going to wire the - side of the LED into my ignition switch so it shuts off (when key is switched on) but I'm not sure which wire to tap into. Anyone know which wire to use? And sorry for stealing your thread 67Chevy. Doug

[67ChevyC10Stepside]

oh it's no idea...im just looking for some cheap easy ideas...

[1972]

I'm gonna find a relay that turns on and stays on when the switch on the inside is flicked on, even if you flick the switch off again

This can be done using three relays.

Biggest issue would be with how a guy could set up the horns so he cannot simply cut the wire to the horn...

It would be cool to get one of the multi-tone sirens that aftermarket alarm systems use and hide it and the above mentioned relays somewhere way up in the dash where they would be real hard to get to. I wouldn't hang out for long to try and find the siren while it's blasting 130db at me!

[SweetandLong68]

Originally Posted by 1972

It would be cool to get one of the multi-tone sirens that aftermarket alarm systems use and hide it and the above mentioned relays somewhere way up in the dash where they would be real hard to get to. I wouldn't hang out for long to try and find the siren while it's blasting 130db at me!

That sounds like how my 72 C-10 is setup....Actually two different setups....One for the doors/interior....and one for the hood.

lata
CHRIS

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by Russell

What I planned to go was set up a "kill" switch under the dash (just on the upper lip of the bottom of the dash on the inside) that sets off a home made alarm system if it is hit

Bascially, I'm gonna find a relay that turns on and stays on when the switch on the inside is flicked on, even if you flick the switch off again, or cut the wire. Set this up so it provides power to the horns through a momentary flasher like a signal light flasher. Then, to turn it off, have another switch inside of the engine compartment somewhere that you flick to set the relay to the off position Have all of the wiring for the setup & the relay blended in with the TPI wiring, so he cannot readily identify the alarm setup's wiring

Then, have the real kill switch somewhere like behind the seat or something :p

Some theif comes in, cranks the truck, won't start, looks for a kill switch, hits it, and the truck starts honking and doesn't stop, even after he turns the switch back off, or cuts the wires to it :p And yeah, the horns on my truck arn't exactly quiet, lol

Biggest issue would be with how a guy could set up the horns so he cannot simply cut the wire to the horn... Prehaps a guy can extend the horn wiring and run it through the core support / fenders so it is not easily accessed

My dad had a similar setup in his cars for years. He wired a relay and turn signal flasher up to the horn, via the dome light circuit. If the "alarm" was armed and you opened the door, the dome light would come on, send current to the relay, which then switched on the "flashing" horn.

One night some theives were working my parents alley. They got into his van first. The horn started "blinking". When we went out to check it out there were tools on the roofs of two other neighbor's cars.

That wasn't the only time his $10 worth of parts saved stuff. Heck it probably only cost him $5 back then.

[vtblazer]

I think as far as a 'switching' system goes, there's two good option's.
The power wire to the HEI would be easy and effective but the other good one would be an inline switch on the starter selonoid wire from the key.
No spark, no start. No crank, no start.
Course the towing thing memtioned above would overcome most 'deterent' systems anyway.