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02-15-2005, 02:14 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Damon, Tx
Posts: 56
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Freakin master cylinder
I thought I would be real nice to my truck yesterday. Went and bought a new master cylinder from Carquest. Supposedly American made by Raybestos.
Got home bench bled and installed it. After about an hour and about a 1 gallon of fluid, I still had no pedal. I tried everything. So in desperation I re-bled the old one and installed it. After 5 minutes of bleeding the system, it held pressure. Boy was I pissed off big time. New master cylinder and it was faulty - I assume. So I guess a remanufactured Japanese unit will be what goes on the truck. So much for American quality. Sorry, I'm still pissed. James |
02-15-2005, 07:53 PM | #2 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: ** THE FALL GUY **CHICAGO IL
Posts: 5,883
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DOHOOOOOOO
and i thought that stuff only happened to me |
02-15-2005, 08:08 PM | #3 |
1971 C20 Custom Camper
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Ames/Shenandoah, IA
Posts: 1,435
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Dang... sorry to hear that. I would bet that there is a growing number of people working in the manufacturing sector of the U.S. economy that aren't even American citizens...
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'71 Chevy C20 Custom Camper, 454, TH400 '97 GMC K1500 5.7L |
02-15-2005, 08:36 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,086
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That's not good. Very Very frustrating!!! Don't worry your not alone stuff goes wrong at times, I had a rubber seal fail on mine 2 weeks after I just had my truck painted, wrecked the whole paintjob under the master cyl on the firewall.
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02-15-2005, 09:37 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Damon, Tx
Posts: 56
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Well at least I'm not alone in dealing with this crap..
69shortfleet - sorry about the paint. Thats really a pisser. I guess I didnt tell the whole story. Along with the "new" master cylinder, I re-plumbed the front brake lines and added a new proportioning valve from GMCPauls. My service manual said to depress the proportioning valve button on the front of the original valve. I assume this is the same for the new one. My brother and I spent about 2 hours and about 1 gallon of brake fluid trying to bleed it on Monday Today, Tuesday, I went and bought a reman master cylinder from Oreilly. We spent about an hour tonight trying to bleed it and over 32 oz of brake fluid. Still a mushy peddle. I'm about ready to park it even after installing a rebuilt rear axle with Eaton posi 2 weeks ago. Any suggestions appreciated. James |
02-16-2005, 02:49 AM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,086
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James, is there any evidence of brake fluid leaking anywhere in your brake system? You might want to double check where the lines go into the wheel cylinder and make sure there tight. Did you use new copper washers on the wheel cylinders when you installed the new lines? Are the front brake lines (rubber section) ok? When I bleed my brakes I start with the furthest wheel cylinder (passenger rear) away from the master cyl. and work my way to the closest. I'm not sure about the prop valve (never had to work on mine) Hope this might help.
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02-16-2005, 09:13 AM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Damon, Tx
Posts: 56
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69shortfleet - After a good cooling off period last night I'll probably do as you said and go back and re-check where the lines connect to the calipers and wheel cylinders and also the compression fitting tee I used to split the front wheels.
Might try and pressure test if I can. Thats of course after I go and buy more brake fluid and brake cleaner. If I figure figure anything out, I'll post later... Thanks, James |
02-16-2005, 11:15 AM | #8 |
Pesemistic Optimist
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Prineville, Oregon
Posts: 227
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This site has some helpful info for brake problems, it might help, it might not. Just in case.
Dan. http://www.classicperform.com/
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1972 K20 Cheyenne Super Custom Camper- 4" lift & 35's, built TH350 and 355. Daily driver resto in progress. 1999 Yukon Denali- Wife's ride, hands off. |
02-16-2005, 11:18 AM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Concord, North Carolina 28027
Posts: 64
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Grim Reaper has some excellent advice on how to get our brake systems working. Here is the link: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=111903
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1971 Cheyenne 1/2 ton 2WD Long Fleet (sold) Steve |
02-16-2005, 07:04 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SOMERSET KY.
Posts: 6,427
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I Had A Simaler Experiance When I Put Front Brakes On My K5 Blazer. I Bled That Sucker For Half A Day, & Went Thru About 3 Qt.s Of Fluid. I Drove It Around For A Couple Of Weeks With Mushy Brakes. I Finally Replaced The Rears & It Bled & Pumped Up Hard Right Now. The Drums In The Rear Was Oversize & With The Shoes Worn Down The Wheel Cylinders Were Pushing The Shoes Out To Far & Not Letting The Pressure Build Up. Just Something From Another Prospective. John
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junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST |
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