What else to replace with a 4/6 drop?

[5150]

When I do my 4/6 drop here in a week or so what else should I replace while it's torn down. I'd like recommendations of as if money was no option and then as it is an option. At least what would you guys DEFINITELY replace (ball joints upper and lower, etc.)

thanks

[inline6Bill]

Money is no option:

Every ball joint, tie rod end, A arm bushing; actually anything that could be replaced with brand new.

Budget / reality:

Anything that looks questionable should be replaced (tie rod ends, A arm bushings).

Personally, I would do the top one and do it right rather than half-a$$ the job. As my late mentor would say, " Isn't your life worth doing the job right the first time? "

[67shortie]

Agreed, I just did this to mine last weekend. You should look at your ball joints, uper and lower a arm shafts, and tie rod ends.

My upper a arm shafts were pretty bad, I will be doing these tonight in matter of fact.

[5150]

Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends, Upper and Lower Ball Joints, and A arm bushings. That about cover it? I'm having a friend who knows more than me about the front end help, so don't think I'm a comple retard.

[Tx Firefighter]

Idler arm is usually worn out. Pitman arm is too sometimes.

Personally, I let my control arm bushings go a little looser than some folks do. They still align well and drive right, and don't wear tires out, so no worry. I'm not saying I don't change them if they are real loose, but a little wear is acceptable. It's not really a safety issue.

Balljoints are a huge safety issue though. They need to be in good shape. Bad ball joints can, and will, seperate. This allows the wheel to literally fall off the truck.

Wheel bearings are dead cheap. Usually 30 bucks will replace all 4 of them.

I think the idler arms were wore out on these trucks when they were brand new on the lot. I literally have changed countless idler arms on GM trucks, under warranty, with just a few thousand miles. Moog makes an idler arm called the "Problem Solver". It's much beefier and fixes the problem once and for all. Availabe at any Moog dealer. Look for the word "Problem Solver" stamped into the idler arm itself by one of the grease zerk holes to make sure you're getting the genuine article.

Brake hoses are about 40 bucks a pair. I always change them, no matter what. You cannot judge a brake hose by looking at it. It's the inside that goes bad. The inside swells shut, delaminates, and other bad stuff. Brakes are life and death.

[5150]

Hey Guys just to show my stupidity. A arm bushings and Control arm bushings are the same thing right?

I just asked my wife to replace most of this under the truck and she said, "YES"

Suddenly, a light shined down on me and angels were singing. What made it more strange was I was in my living room, not outside.

[5150]

If you had to change one set of ball joints which ones would it be Upper or Lower?

[Tx Firefighter]

Control arm and a-arm are the same thing, just different name.

If you have to choose, lower ball joints, no question about it. The lower is the one that carries all of the load. They wear out much faster than the uppers.

[lolife99]

Just a thought,... I know it's alot of money,... BUT when are you planning on tearing the front end down for the second time? If you have something that needs attention right NOW,... do that. But,... If there are no plans in the near future to go back in and rebuild everything,... I would do it ALL the first time. I think I spent about $600.00 on my Blazer. But now I can drive without worrying about anything in the front end. Just my 2 cents.

[5150]

I'm going to probably do most of it. It's probably going to run about $300 at the zone. Those upper ball joints are the most expensive thing. I don't get it.

[5150]

Hey guys one thing that I should have stated first. I have a 70, but with disc brakes. What year should I be putting in when I'm looking/asking for parts? I was under the assumption that 70's didn't have disc brakes. So what year(s) could the disc brake set up be? Just 71 or 72?

thanks

[Peregrine]

Replace lowers. I took my spindles off last week and when I used the ram to pop it off the lower ball joint the thing just fell to the floor. Me and my dad just looked at each other with very strange looks. And please don't buy anything from Autozone, for the love of god. Go to Carquest or something.

[5150]

Any recommendations on shocks? Do I need drop shocks? I do have the panhard bar and the shock relocator kit from ECE. I just didn't know if I needed drop shocks for the front.

thanks

[lolife99]

Yes you are going to need new shocks with the 4/6 drop. I used Belltech's on the front,...(cause I had them already),... and ECE's on the rear. I know you can buy the KYB's (that ECE sells) cheaper at the parts stores. I don't have the part numbers handy. I think the REAR shock# cross-referenced over to a 71-72 4x4 Blazer (front shock )part number. I will look for them. Anyone have a set not installed? Just read the # right off the shock. I took my numbers to Advance Auto,... and they were alot cheaper than ECE.

[5150]

So I will need DROP shocks for the front, but I can use regular stock shocks for the rear because I have the relocator kit? Correct?

Is there another car application that has a shorter shock that we can use for our trucks that are dropped.

I'll go to Advance here in a few minutes and ask them about drop shocks

[lolife99]

yellow69,... You still need a "dropped" rear shock. The relocator just corrects the "angle" of the shorter shock. I wish I had the part numbers for you. The KYB's that ECE sells you are just a shorter version of the stock shocks. Front and rear. You are paying them to do all the "homework". Your 4/6 drop will require a front shock approximately 1.5" shorter than factory. (the amount of drop spring you are using). You do NOT take into account the 2.5" drop spindle height. And the rear will require a shock approximately 6" shorter than factory. (again,... the amount or drop spring you are using.

[5150]

Hey lolife, the shocks on ECE are for 63-72. They only have one choice. You said that the shock will have to be 1.5 shorter. What about people that have a 3 inch drop, or a 5 inch drop. I went to KYB's website and they have 3 kinds there are the GR-2's, the Gas a Just, and the Monomax Standard/Lowered. Which ones are they?

The GR-2's -344068

The Gas a Just-KG5409/Front KG5416/Rear

The Monomax-565032

[Elsie72]

I just checked my shocks, still in the box. The fronts are the GR-2's that you mentioned, Yellow 69. The rears are GR-2's 344055.

[5150]

The KYB website only states the 344068 as the only shock. The space for the rear shocks is blank.

[lolife99]

yellow69,.... the shock is ONLY affected by the drop coil. Drop spindles to not affect shock application. You have a 1.5" drop spring in a 4/6 drop. (2.5 inches of that is built in the spindle) I have a 2" drop spring in my Blazer. Most drop front shocks will work for all drop springs from 1" to 3". I believe mine are the GR-2's also. Sorry this is so confusing. You can PM me or call me if that will help. ECE uses stock KYB shocks from a "different" application,... to work on your lowered suspension.

[BigDave]

When I did my drop I also replaced the stock rotors, bearings, calipers, rubber brake hoses, etc. I even went one step further and bought the cross-drilled, slotted rotors. Best money I've ever spent on rotors. They have wicked good stopping power.