Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
03-19-2005, 06:56 PM | #1 |
Chevy's Rock!
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Lebanon, OH
Posts: 448
|
U-Joint Repair question
The U-Joint on the LF axle in my '77 K10 is shot, which explains why there has been a squeaking noise coming from that corner as I make a turn. It looks to be pretty tight in there and I am wondering if there is enough room for me to replace this U-Joint without doing some major disassembly. What is the best way to approach this? I hope to get the work done this weekend.
BTW, I verified that the U-Joint was shot by rotating the tire and watching the joint. There was obvious slop between the cap and the cross. Thanks,
__________________
John '59 NAPCO Pickup '70 K10 Pickup 350 '72 C20 Suburban 350 (MIA) '57 Chieftain 455 '68 Firebird Convertible - 400 '68 Catalina Convertible - 400 '85 Vette Last edited by '72 Chevy Suburban; 03-20-2005 at 01:32 AM. |
03-20-2005, 10:43 AM | #2 |
Chevy's Rock!
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Lebanon, OH
Posts: 448
|
According to a friend of mine, the hub and axle needs to come out... I'll be doing this today (and will be monitoring the board as well) in case anyone has advice.
Thanks,
__________________
John '59 NAPCO Pickup '70 K10 Pickup 350 '72 C20 Suburban 350 (MIA) '57 Chieftain 455 '68 Firebird Convertible - 400 '68 Catalina Convertible - 400 '85 Vette |
03-20-2005, 01:10 PM | #3 |
Majician
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: In the Middle
Posts: 329
|
Hub, spindle, and axle need to come out. Don't screw up your spindle when you pull it.
|
03-20-2005, 07:49 PM | #4 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
|
Yep have to remove the hub and spindle to pull the axle out. Would be a good time to do the ball joints with it all apart.
__________________
1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
03-20-2005, 08:34 PM | #5 | |
Chevy's Rock!
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Lebanon, OH
Posts: 448
|
Quote:
Persistence and patience, I guess..
__________________
John '59 NAPCO Pickup '70 K10 Pickup 350 '72 C20 Suburban 350 (MIA) '57 Chieftain 455 '68 Firebird Convertible - 400 '68 Catalina Convertible - 400 '85 Vette |
|
03-21-2005, 01:13 AM | #6 |
Chevy's Rock!
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Lebanon, OH
Posts: 448
|
Hopefully I found the source of the clunking noise today... One of the
internal gears to the locking hub had some wiped out teeth. Since this is fulltime 4WD, I am thinking that this might be the case. It certainly gave me a good reason to buy a new set of WARN hubs when I went to the parts store to get my spindle nut wrench. Here are some pictures of the progress today. Pictures Note the backing plate picture with the wasted slinger. Is there a way that a replacement slinger can be purchased without having to replace the whole backing plate? Not trying to sound cheap, but the backing plate is a substantial chunk of steel and it is in great shape. Probably not a cheap part to replace. I will get the U-Joints pressed in tomorrow, hopefully. In the mean time, I will press the '72 Burb into daily driver duty.
__________________
John '59 NAPCO Pickup '70 K10 Pickup 350 '72 C20 Suburban 350 (MIA) '57 Chieftain 455 '68 Firebird Convertible - 400 '68 Catalina Convertible - 400 '85 Vette |
03-21-2005, 06:39 AM | #7 |
Majician
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: In the Middle
Posts: 329
|
You may be able to buy a used backing plate fairly cheap; I threw 2 of them away several weeks ago. As far as spindle removal, a tapped hole would have been great. I have a spindle puller that works real good, I can have 'em out in about 2 seconds.
|
03-21-2005, 07:27 AM | #8 |
Chevy's Rock!
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Lebanon, OH
Posts: 448
|
Hmmm.... A spindle puller! Sounds like something that I would have killed for yesterday! Does it thread onto the spindle itself and then have something like a body puller (slide hammer) attached to it? I was dreaming up a similar animal yesterday...
__________________
John '59 NAPCO Pickup '70 K10 Pickup 350 '72 C20 Suburban 350 (MIA) '57 Chieftain 455 '68 Firebird Convertible - 400 '68 Catalina Convertible - 400 '85 Vette |
03-21-2005, 07:43 AM | #9 |
Majician
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: In the Middle
Posts: 329
|
Yep, that's exactly what it is! It works great too.
|
Bookmarks |
|
|