07-24-2002, 10:47 AM | #1 |
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Boxing the Frame
I've got an extra frame, and I've been toying with the idea of boxing the one on my truck (when time and finances permit).
I need some advice from folks who've done it. Did you overlap the flanges or butt-weld them? I'm assuming that there needs to be pipe or conduit welded in between the webs to keep pass-through bolts from compressing the metal. What should I use for that? What's the best surface prep/protection for the inside of the box? Any tips, tricks, or experiences welcome. T.I.A.
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'69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt. |
07-24-2002, 11:16 PM | #2 |
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BTT
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'69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt. |
07-25-2002, 03:01 AM | #3 | |
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Re: Boxing the Frame
Quote:
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Ed ke6bnl Agua Dulce 70 S.E. Los Angeles 70 Chevy short bed 1948 F3 ford pu 1949 F1 stock V8 flathead 3 on floor 1950 F1 pu street rod 1948 F6 Ford Dually/350sbc no bed stock trans&rear 1972 El Camino 4" chop 1953 Chevy 3100 2b daily driver 1970 SB 4X4 400ci 6in lift |
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07-25-2002, 07:39 AM | #4 |
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just curious, why do you guys want to box your frame?
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07-25-2002, 09:28 AM | #5 |
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I did mine mainly for strength and the visual aspects was a bounus.
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Smooth68's Web Site WTB 64-66 project or frame/cab, SWB or LWB...I have the fever! Whatcha got?? '68 Short Step - Shaved Body, Soon Bagged - SOLD Driver-2004 GMC Z-71 Ext-cab |
07-25-2002, 05:14 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
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Ed ke6bnl Agua Dulce 70 S.E. Los Angeles 70 Chevy short bed 1948 F3 ford pu 1949 F1 stock V8 flathead 3 on floor 1950 F1 pu street rod 1948 F6 Ford Dually/350sbc no bed stock trans&rear 1972 El Camino 4" chop 1953 Chevy 3100 2b daily driver 1970 SB 4X4 400ci 6in lift |
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07-25-2002, 05:33 PM | #7 | |
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Location: West Fork, Arkansas - Razorback Country
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Quote:
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Smooth68's Web Site WTB 64-66 project or frame/cab, SWB or LWB...I have the fever! Whatcha got?? '68 Short Step - Shaved Body, Soon Bagged - SOLD Driver-2004 GMC Z-71 Ext-cab |
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07-25-2002, 05:47 PM | #8 |
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I work at a shop where we build trailers and things out of steel all the time, plus work on large trucks. Now boxing the frame fro a racing standpoint isn't so bad, it nearly eliminates flex in the chassis. However it also depends how you box it. If yo put your boxing on the very edge of the C channel you basically create a piece of steel tubing. This is not the greatest thing, from personal experiecnce, under load tubing cannot flex and instead will break, it happens on trailers with tubing frames all the time. If you move the boxing more towards the center of the C channel it can help increase the load bearing capacity, and you do not lose as much of the strength as with the very edge boxed., although even on the edge it still has half decent strength quality but just a regular C channel is also very strong. Also something to consider is to dot his properly do not stop boxing and start in another spot again , say to go around a crossmember you create a weak point in that area and the frame will be prone to crack. I look at it this way, every highway tractor on the road nearly does not have a boxed frame, if anything they will have a double C channel frame and look at the weight and stress those frames endure. Boxing in my opinion is a waste of money and time but every guy has there own ideas.
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