My 250 gained some weight!!! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Putter · 04-11-2005, 10:17 AM

Well, I am finally getting around to posting pics of my old truck's new power plant. I yanked the inline out of there (which is for sale - by the way) and dropped a small block in it's place (thanks to one of CHEVYE's hella-deals, and a ton of board-member parts). So after several hours with G-Man69 and some horse-trading for parts, here is the result.

Before & after...oooooohhhhhh....aaahhhhhhhhhh

**tnblazerk5** · 04-11-2005, 10:25 AM

man that looks really good in there !!!!!!!!!! i like it and i see ya added power brakes too !!!!!! bet that helps out too!!!!!!!! wish mine looked that good

**tnblazerk5** · 04-11-2005, 10:26 AM

hey how did ya hook the power steering pump up to the box ? isnt the fittings differant ?

timmosams · 04-11-2005, 10:28 AM

Looks great

What do you want for the 250? How many miles does it have? How does it run? Any and all info would be appreciated.

68cajun · 04-11-2005, 10:33 AM

Where did you get the Idler to replace the A/C compressor on the 1 belt setup? I have a setup and need the that part to install it without the ac. Oh yeah the engine looks great!

Putter · 04-11-2005, 10:48 AM

I will start from the top and work down...
NOTHING was power from the factory on this one. I have added power brakes and power steering. The power steering pump was a metric fitting and the box is a standard. I took the correct hose for each, then cut and spliced as close to the pump as possible. Lucky for me that BOTH lines use 3/8" metal tubing, which made it easy to splice.
The inline 250 is not the original. It is out of a 1968. I got it from board member Bowtie468. It runs great, but the throw-out bearing in the tranny is shot (one reason to swap engines now!) I does have a leak in the area of the timing cover. Not sure if the cover gasket is leaking or the one in the center of the cover. Didn't check because I was puilling it out anyway. I would take $50 for it and leave the 3-speed connected to it or trade for something I need!!
I got the A/C delete pulley from board member WES. He sells them new and they are GM parts. I gave in the neighborhood of $55 I think.

TRUCKGUY · 04-11-2005, 11:43 AM

looks great

SWINGSAX68 · 04-11-2005, 12:00 PM

Please post some more info on the belt system....also how did you wire up the alternator???? Is that a newer block w vortec heads or an older block with the regular heads. Will that pulley system bolt up to any short block????
IT WOULD BE GREAT IF YOU COULD PUT UP A FAQ SHEET ON THIS STUFF!!!!

Russell · 04-11-2005, 02:14 PM

Those are standard chevy heads. The Vortec heads have center bolt valve covers. And yes, the serp setup will bolt up to most any small block that have accessory holes in them.

Ask NeonLarry about wiring up the alternator. You need to put an inline resistor into the circuit for some reason that I cannot remember.

Putter · 04-11-2005, 03:42 PM

That is half correct. You have to install a resistor inline with the brown wire only IF you are not going to use a warning light. You can run both a warning light and a gauge if you want. That is what I am doing. The bulb gives just the right amount of resistance to keep the internals of the new regulator from burning up. The bulb is also handy to have because if you sling a belt, it will light up instantly to let you know. The voltage needle won't let you know until the battery starts to drain down.

To use the new model CS-130 alternator, or CS-139d, you completely do away with the external regulator. Remove the blue wire and the white wire completely. There is a splice where the red wire from old regulator connected to the red wire that leaves the battery and goes from the passenger side to the driver's side. Those splice in with a red wire that heads towards the firewall/bulk-head. My splice was hidden in the black tape-wrapping up-stream a few inches from the old regulator. You can cut out the regulator part, so the the wire goes from the battery, straight towards the fuse block. Now, the only wire left should be brown. It will connect to the "L" terminal of your alternator (that stands for lamp). You might have to extend the wire for this...mine was too short. If you are not going to run a light, you will have to install the resistor (I can get the correct size later if needed). If you are running a lamp, you are almost done.
So, you either have a lamp, or a resistor....great! Just one more wire to cut. Under the dash, at the ignition switch, there are two brown wires. One solid brown, about an 18 gauge...LEAVE IT ALONE. There is also a brown wire with a white stripe, roughly 20 or 22 gauge. Cut it and cap the two ends.
That is all there is to it.
Hope that helps.

GMan69 · 04-11-2005, 03:44 PM

How 'bout some pics of your new instrument cluster? Y'all, his new cluster ROCKS!!!

Once again, congrats on a job very well done.

Putter · 04-11-2005, 03:46 PM

Look on the FAQ board George. Also, look at the thread that asks "What size gauges are you running?"

04-11-2005, 10:17 AM	#1
Putter More Cowbell.... Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, MS Posts: 3,569	My 250 gained some weight!!! Well, I am finally getting around to posting pics of my old truck's new power plant. I yanked the inline out of there (which is for sale - by the way) and dropped a small block in it's place (thanks to one of CHEVYE's hella-deals, and a ton of board-member parts). So after several hours with G-Man69 and some horse-trading for parts, here is the result. Before & after...oooooohhhhhh....aaahhhhhhhhhh Attached Images __________________ *There once was a member from Puckett.....Who ( fill in the blank blank blank* ) bucket**

04-11-2005, 10:33 AM	#5
68cajun 68 C/10 Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Houma Louisiana Posts: 367	Where did you get the Idler to replace the A/C compressor on the 1 belt setup? I have a setup and need the that part to install it without the ac. Oh yeah the engine looks great! __________________ (2009) GMC Sierra Denali 6.2 AWD (67 C/10 fleetside SWB) (2018GMC Yukon Denali) Wifes Car

04-11-2005, 10:48 AM	#6
Putter More Cowbell.... Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, MS Posts: 3,569	I will start from the top and work down... NOTHING was power from the factory on this one. I have added power brakes and power steering. The power steering pump was a metric fitting and the box is a standard. I took the correct hose for each, then cut and spliced as close to the pump as possible. Lucky for me that BOTH lines use 3/8" metal tubing, which made it easy to splice. The inline 250 is not the original. It is out of a 1968. I got it from board member Bowtie468. It runs great, but the throw-out bearing in the tranny is shot (one reason to swap engines now!) I does have a leak in the area of the timing cover. Not sure if the cover gasket is leaking or the one in the center of the cover. Didn't check because I was puilling it out anyway. I would take $50 for it and leave the 3-speed connected to it or trade for something I need!! I got the A/C delete pulley from board member WES. He sells them new and they are GM parts. I gave in the neighborhood of $55 I think. __________________ *There once was a member from Puckett.....Who ( fill in the blank blank blank* ) bucket** Last edited by Putter; 04-11-2005 at 10:51 AM.

04-11-2005, 11:43 AM	#7
TRUCKGUY Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Nortonville, Ky Posts: 407	looks great __________________ Dan. 55 F100 panel truck project 64 350/th400/10bolt short fleet 66 F100 302/C6/9" short fleet 67 IH 4x2 304/t984speed D44 373 locker lwb box 67 IH 4x4 304/t98 4speed/d44/d60 4.10'slwb box 67 IH Travelall 4x4 304/t98 4speed/12bolt/10bolt 81 2wd short fleet current build! 83 350/700r4 short fleet 88 k5 12" lift 3/4 ton swap mud toy 96 Dodge 3500 CUMMINS/5speed/4x2 97 Pontiac Trans Am WS6/LT1 383/6speed/T-tops

04-11-2005, 12:00 PM	#8
SWINGSAX68 Now the others dig........ Join Date: May 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 1,520	Please post some more info on the belt system....also how did you wire up the alternator???? Is that a newer block w vortec heads or an older block with the regular heads. Will that pulley system bolt up to any short block???? IT WOULD BE GREAT IF YOU COULD PUT UP A FAQ SHEET ON THIS STUFF!!!! __________________ 68 Chevy C10 Stepside Black Primer 78 GMC Longbed White 09 Chevy Silverado Shortbed Granite Blue *LOOKING FOR A 67 4 DOOR IMPALA!!!Just like Sam and Dean Winchester!! 'Cause Mustangs are for p^#$ and you can fit a body in the trunk of a 67 Impala* MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB Bachelor of Music in Jazz Studies Texas State University-San Marcos, TX Certified Music Educator I hope Mom is up there watching and being my Guardian Angel "I've got a fever.....and the only prescription.....IS MORE COW BELL" -The Legendary: Bruce Dickenson "F#$@ 'em up!!!!!!" -The Legendary: Rogelio Escobar TRUCKY LINKS** http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=457750 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=461184 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=472848 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417541 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=477788

04-11-2005, 10:25 AM	#2
tnblazerk5 User #12137 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: kingsport,upper east tenn Posts: 11,598	man that looks really good in there !!!!!!!!!! i like it and i see ya added power brakes too !!!!!! bet that helps out too!!!!!!!! wish mine looked that good

04-11-2005, 10:26 AM	#3
tnblazerk5 User #12137 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: kingsport,upper east tenn Posts: 11,598	hey how did ya hook the power steering pump up to the box ? isnt the fittings differant ?

04-11-2005, 10:28 AM	#4
timmosams Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Watauga, TN Posts: 65	Looks great What do you want for the 250? How many miles does it have? How does it run? Any and all info would be appreciated.

04-11-2005, 02:14 PM	#9
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Those are standard chevy heads. The Vortec heads have center bolt valve covers. And yes, the serp setup will bolt up to most any small block that have accessory holes in them. Ask NeonLarry about wiring up the alternator. You need to put an inline resistor into the circuit for some reason that I cannot remember. __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

04-11-2005, 03:42 PM	#10
Putter More Cowbell.... Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, MS Posts: 3,569	That is half correct. You have to install a resistor inline with the brown wire only IF you are not going to use a warning light. You can run both a warning light and a gauge if you want. That is what I am doing. The bulb gives just the right amount of resistance to keep the internals of the new regulator from burning up. The bulb is also handy to have because if you sling a belt, it will light up instantly to let you know. The voltage needle won't let you know until the battery starts to drain down. To use the new model CS-130 alternator, or CS-139d, you completely do away with the external regulator. Remove the blue wire and the white wire completely. There is a splice where the red wire from old regulator connected to the red wire that leaves the battery and goes from the passenger side to the driver's side. Those splice in with a red wire that heads towards the firewall/bulk-head. My splice was hidden in the black tape-wrapping up-stream a few inches from the old regulator. You can cut out the regulator part, so the the wire goes from the battery, straight towards the fuse block. Now, the only wire left should be brown. It will connect to the "L" terminal of your alternator (that stands for lamp). You might have to extend the wire for this...mine was too short. If you are not going to run a light, you will have to install the resistor (I can get the correct size later if needed). If you are running a lamp, you are almost done. So, you either have a lamp, or a resistor....great! Just one more wire to cut. Under the dash, at the ignition switch, there are two brown wires. One solid brown, about an 18 gauge...LEAVE IT ALONE. There is also a brown wire with a white stripe, roughly 20 or 22 gauge. Cut it and cap the two ends. That is all there is to it. Hope that helps. __________________ *There once was a member from Puckett.....Who ( fill in the blank blank blank* ) bucket** Last edited by Putter; 04-11-2005 at 03:45 PM.

04-11-2005, 03:44 PM	#11
GMan69 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Hernando, MS USA Posts: 1,152	How 'bout some pics of your new instrument cluster? Y'all, his new cluster ROCKS!!! Once again, congrats on a job very well done. __________________ George Morgan Hernando, MS '69 C-10 swb fleetside '72 GMC swb Stepside

04-11-2005, 03:46 PM	#12
Putter More Cowbell.... Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, MS Posts: 3,569	Look on the FAQ board George. Also, look at the thread that asks "What size gauges are you running?" __________________ *There once was a member from Puckett.....Who ( fill in the blank blank blank* ) bucket**



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