05-06-2005, 05:00 PM | #1 |
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what size notch?
At what point is a step notch needed versus the traditional C-notch? What I mean is, what else do you need to do to your rear suspension to warrant the extra axle(really frame) movement a step notch provides? A 4 link maybe?
What I'm getting at is if I want to run bags in place of coils with a 2" drop block, will I need more than a c-notch? If I do a 4-link, is say a 8" step notch a definate? I know wheel size is a factor so FYI, I want to run 20's. I kind of asked this in another post, but I would like to start another dedicated to this subject. To take the question one step further, say I do need something more than a c-notch. Am I looking at some custom fabrication for the notch or is there something I can buy. I know Suicidedoors has the weld in 8" notch, but that doesn't really take into consideration the bend in our frames right above the axle right? So the SD kit would need to be modified to fit the curve?? thanks for any knowledge you can drop (pun intended!) |
05-07-2005, 10:29 AM | #2 |
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it depends on how low you want to go if you want to lay frame on 20's yes a step notch will be needed if you just want it to sit low you can get away with a c-notch if you want it to lay all the way down also at some point the trailering arms bottom out on the frame you, i am gonna 4 link mine and as far as a step notch i got mine from SD and i am gonna build a new rear frame section to eliminate the bend....
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05-07-2005, 12:36 PM | #3 |
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I want it low, and low enough that I'm not going to say "I wish I went lower." So I'm kind of undecided, that's why I'm asking these questions. Thanks for the reply.
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05-07-2005, 01:04 PM | #4 |
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When I notched mine the first time I did a large notch that almost is thru the whole frame height, but fits under the bed with massaging of the bed supports. With the bags, 2" blocks and a small hole in the bed for the dif. the back it goes down until the axle is resting on the notch and about 3/4" more drop available if the notch was bigger. I am only running a 15" rim and a tall tire, so would look different with 20's. When I do the x-member drop in the front, I will 4-link the rear and go to a larger notch to get lower.
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05-07-2005, 03:23 PM | #5 |
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With bolt-in notch we've discussed in PM's...
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05-07-2005, 05:06 PM | #6 |
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Thanks for the pics. What is your overall tire height on both of those trucks?
pbmcauliffe, got a side view? Last edited by jlaird; 05-07-2005 at 05:07 PM. |
05-07-2005, 06:06 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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05-07-2005, 09:01 PM | #8 |
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Only other side shot I have right now, I will be at the shop tomorrow and try to remeber to get a side shot by itself.
rear tires are 275/60/15 on a 15x8, front are 205/something/15 on 15x7 Last edited by pbmcauliffe; 05-07-2005 at 09:02 PM. |
05-08-2005, 09:14 PM | #9 |
Project92 SWB stepside
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You could always get a c notch for your truck with the curve and mod it. Or you could build your own notch. I have a 8" notch from SD but its for a 88-98 truck. Im like you, I want to go big enough the first time.
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92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448 Last edited by phantom dually; 05-08-2005 at 09:19 PM. |
05-09-2005, 12:39 AM | #10 |
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Don't know how much this will help,but I just finished installing bags with a 2.5" c-notch and have found that there is nowhere near enough room in that size of notch for drop blocks.Without blocks,the axle is about a 1/2" from the top of the notch and the trailing arms (just fyi) are approx. an inch from hitting the frame with the bags flat.
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05-09-2005, 12:36 PM | #11 |
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The bolt-in c-notches (along with the supplied rubber bumpers) are designed to work with a stock bed floor. If you remove the bumpers, you gain about 1.5" more drop, but also created a bed floor interference issue. To solve this problem I raised my bed floor 1.5" instead of just cutting a hole in the floor (which is kind of ghetto in my opinion). And as XXL stated, if you remove the bumpers you also have to notch the cross member directly above the differential, but it's only a minor notch.
Here is a picture of mine with the axle resting on the bolt-in c-notch (rubber bumpers removed). 27â tall tires.
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05-10-2005, 02:29 AM | #12 |
carl
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damn that is sick slammed 67, what are you running up front?
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