Replacing the Dash - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

4tiresngas · 05-10-2005, 12:22 AM

Is the entire dash a bolt in item or are there welds involved? If it is bolt in, I'd probably replace the whole piece instead of trying to patch my radio opening.

CHEVIBUBBA · 05-10-2005, 12:37 AM

hey.
i was kinda looking at this a couple weeks ago.it appears the dash stretches under the w/shield requiring removal of it to remove the dash.
i didn;t see any welds but, it wasn't my truck so i had limited time.
i'm gonna replace mine with a custom made,(by me),aluminum or carbon fiber one to shave weight.
if you learn more, let us know.

avejoe · 05-10-2005, 12:53 AM

It's spot welded under the entire run beneath the front glass.

4tiresngas · 05-10-2005, 01:02 AM

uuugghh. I figured as much.

vtblazer · 05-10-2005, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avejoe

It's spot welded under the entire run beneath the front glass.

Yeah, with like a million of em...

Find a donor dash section and do a patch, it'll save you alot of time and frustration.

Word of caution though, go easy when welding the dash area, it's pretty thin.

bobs409 · 05-10-2005, 07:19 AM

I have a section of dash on ebay now that is just what your looking for. My listings:
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...sort=3&rows=50

I cut this one up high so there will be less welding than trying to go right around the radio opening. This way, you can cut and use how ever much you would like.

I also have an AC section that I will be listing soon. It has the center vent opening.

NPilot1975 · 05-10-2005, 07:26 AM

If you already have a replacement dash, I heard the easiest way to do it is cut it behind the dash pad where the oval shaped holes are. Cut the new dash the same way and weld it in. The dash pad will hide all your welding.

Jwill41 · 05-10-2005, 08:12 PM

I am doing mine almost the way the green one is cut. I figure I will weld the slots across the top and have very little to weld in each "window".

4tiresngas · 05-10-2005, 09:02 PM

Ed from MOTHERTRUCKERS got me a patch, I'm just not sure anyone will weld it in for me while I still have the in-cab fuel tank.

**pjmoreland** · 05-11-2005, 12:41 AM

I replaced the entire dash in my truck by drilling out all of the spot welds along the bottom lip of the windshield opening. I was very careful to only drill through the cab metal, and not through the dash metal on the donor truck. I drilled all the way through on my truck since I was trashing the dash. Then all I had to do was bolt the new dash in place, clamp the dash to the cab with a few pairs of vise grips, and fill in the holes in the cab with a MIG welder. I then ground down the weld bumps until they were flush. You can't even tell that it was ever replaced. I did this after I tried welding in a patch panel which warped the dash. If you have a lot of experience welding thin sheet metal, then it would probably work out fine.

sneakysnake · 05-11-2005, 01:01 AM

This is what it looks like out.

dave3156 · 05-13-2005, 03:27 AM

I just replace the center section of mine. I found a patch panel a while ago on ebay. It was a piece that went from the center or the gloce box over to the center of the dash bezel. The dash pad hids the big top weld and the bottom ones can't be seen unless you really look for them. In fact the dash bezel hides the bottom one on that side. Turned out real nice. While everything was apart I replaced the heater vent hoses (one of them was a dryer hose! Imagine that!) Also replaced the glove box liner, dash bezel, gauges, installed original AM radio, and painted everything. Alot of work, but the dash looks like new. The welding shop had no problem with the cab in the tank. They covered everything with an asbestos blanked when they did the welds. It was neat to watch. The big weld from side to side across the top took the longest. I'm going to post pictures when I get a chance.

05-10-2005, 12:22 AM	#1
4tiresngas An American Soldier Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Grumolo D' Abadessee, Italy Posts: 503	Replacing the Dash Is the entire dash a bolt in item or are there welds involved? If it is bolt in, I'd probably replace the whole piece instead of trying to patch my radio opening. __________________ Dan dan.brue@us.army.mil

05-10-2005, 12:37 AM	#2
CHEVIBUBBA got boost? Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 123	hey. i was kinda looking at this a couple weeks ago.it appears the dash stretches under the w/shield requiring removal of it to remove the dash. i didn;t see any welds but, it wasn't my truck so i had limited time. i'm gonna replace mine with a custom made,(by me),aluminum or carbon fiber one to shave weight. if you learn more, let us know. __________________ '70 chevy lwb w/'67 hood. 357 s.b.c. built, 4l60 w/vigilante lockup high stall converter, edelbrock pro-flo,brodix heads,comp cams rollerized w/ belt drive, one piece d-shaft, yada, yada, yada..... '82 honda v45 sabre"the black"

05-10-2005, 12:53 AM	#3
avejoe Custer had a plan too. Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: No. California Posts: 344	It's spot welded under the entire run beneath the front glass. __________________ 72 K15 GMC (aka Big White) Performance Rockers, Cab Corners, and Floors Fossil Fuel Glutton Neighborhood Nuisance 98 BMW 540i for Speed (Sold ) 05 Subaru Outback for mileage

05-10-2005, 01:02 AM	#4
4tiresngas An American Soldier Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Grumolo D' Abadessee, Italy Posts: 503	uuugghh. I figured as much. __________________ Dan dan.brue@us.army.mil

05-10-2005, 07:19 AM	#6
bobs409 1969 Custom 30 wrecker Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pottsville, Pa Posts: 2,611	I have a section of dash on ebay now that is just what your looking for. My listings: http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...sort=3&rows=50 I cut this one up high so there will be less welding than trying to go right around the radio opening. This way, you can cut and use how ever much you would like. I also have an AC section that I will be listing soon. It has the center vent opening. __________________ Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10 Last edited by bobs409; 05-10-2005 at 07:22 AM.

05-10-2005, 07:26 AM	#7
NPilot1975 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Plymouth, MA Posts: 891	If you already have a replacement dash, I heard the easiest way to do it is cut it behind the dash pad where the oval shaped holes are. Cut the new dash the same way and weld it in. The dash pad will hide all your welding. __________________ 1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story

05-10-2005, 08:12 PM	#8
Jwill41 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Farmers Branch, Tx Posts: 1,009	I am doing mine almost the way the green one is cut. I figure I will weld the slots across the top and have very little to weld in each "window". __________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/jwill41 67 1/2 ton GMC short step side 68 1/2 ton Chevy long fleet side 72 1/2 ton Chevy Suburban 99 1/2 ton Chevy Suburban founder (and only member) of the primer/clearcoat club

05-10-2005, 09:02 PM	#9
4tiresngas An American Soldier Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Grumolo D' Abadessee, Italy Posts: 503	Ed from MOTHERTRUCKERS got me a patch, I'm just not sure anyone will weld it in for me while I still have the in-cab fuel tank. __________________ Dan dan.brue@us.army.mil

05-11-2005, 12:41 AM	#10
pjmoreland Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: CA Posts: 5,778	I replaced the entire dash in my truck by drilling out all of the spot welds along the bottom lip of the windshield opening. I was very careful to only drill through the cab metal, and not through the dash metal on the donor truck. I drilled all the way through on my truck since I was trashing the dash. Then all I had to do was bolt the new dash in place, clamp the dash to the cab with a few pairs of vise grips, and fill in the holes in the cab with a MIG welder. I then ground down the weld bumps until they were flush. You can't even tell that it was ever replaced. I did this after I tried welding in a patch panel which warped the dash. If you have a lot of experience welding thin sheet metal, then it would probably work out fine.

05-11-2005, 01:01 AM	#11
sneakysnake It's a catastrophic success. Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 2,077	This is what it looks like out. Attached Images

05-13-2005, 03:27 AM	#12
dave3156 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: St. Louis, MO Posts: 336	I just replace the center section of mine. I found a patch panel a while ago on ebay. It was a piece that went from the center or the gloce box over to the center of the dash bezel. The dash pad hids the big top weld and the bottom ones can't be seen unless you really look for them. In fact the dash bezel hides the bottom one on that side. Turned out real nice. While everything was apart I replaced the heater vent hoses (one of them was a dryer hose! Imagine that!) Also replaced the glove box liner, dash bezel, gauges, installed original AM radio, and painted everything. Alot of work, but the dash looks like new. The welding shop had no problem with the cab in the tank. They covered everything with an asbestos blanked when they did the welds. It was neat to watch. The big weld from side to side across the top took the longest. I'm going to post pictures when I get a chance.



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