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Old 05-24-2005, 03:36 PM   #1
gman
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packing wheel bearings

I hate to ask a question like this but could someone explain the proper procedure for repacking wheel bearings? What to look for and maybe some do's/dont's that have been learned. What size socket is needed for the nut? When should new bearings be considered versus just repacking the old ones? Thanks for any info...........sorry for asking what should be already known.
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Old 05-24-2005, 05:54 PM   #2
71meangreenc10
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The best way to repack bearings is with a bearing packer, you can buy them cheap at most parts stores and they are used with a grease gun, when you take the bearings out check them for scorned/ pitting / and chipped rollers. Also check the bearing races for the same, the nut is between a 7/8 and 1 1/8 socket, cant remember which, a thourough inspection of the bearings and the races will tell you if they need replacement, they are pretty cheap so dont be cheap or youll find out the hard way when you loose a wheel...........read the service manual and it will give you step by step instructions, but ensure after you are finished to do a road test and recheck the wheel bearings for looseness with the wheel off the ground. One thing I always do is put the wheel (without the caliper) on and spin the wheel while you tighten the nut to specs, this puts a load on the bearing and usually doesnt need to be retorqued...but make sure you dont overtighten the nut or youll burn up the bearing..... If you need step by step instructions let me know...

Smitty
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Old 05-24-2005, 06:08 PM   #3
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Old 05-24-2005, 06:18 PM   #4
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What 71meangreenc10 said. When you clean the bearings if you use compressed air to dry do not spin the bearing with the air, it will damage it. Also look in between the rollers at the inner race for pits. Here is a Timken brg adj instructions. Do not mix old and new parts fot the same brg. New cup and cone go together John

http://www.timken.com/products/beari...htips/tip5.asp

Last edited by john; 05-24-2005 at 06:21 PM.
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Old 05-24-2005, 06:39 PM   #5
gman
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Thanks for the info. After reading my original post I didn't expalin myself very well. I'm really needing info on how to remove the bearings to inspect them. But what eveyone has said certainly has answered other questions I would have. Thanks.

Meangreen,

Step-by-step instructions would be great if you have the time. I've got a '72 service manual but can't make sense of the parts that need to be removed to get at the bearings. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 05-24-2005, 07:33 PM   #6
71meangreenc10
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Also, do not clean the bearings using solvent based cleaners, I ve talked to company's that make bearings and they claim its not good to use. Here is what you would do to remove them,

jack up the truck and support on stands
remove the tire and caliper assembly, dont let the caliper hang by the hose, its not good for the hose, use a wire hanger or a good bungy cord
remove the bearing cover cap with a hammer and flat tip or channel locks
remove the cotter pin and lock ring assembly
the nut should be hand loose, take it off
pull on the rotor, catch the outer bearing
remove the rotor, make sure the seal came with the rotor
remove the grease seal and pull out the inner bearing...

That will take it off
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Old 05-24-2005, 10:25 PM   #7
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I dont know if this is good or not...but I have found when it comes time to replace the races inside the rotor hub....use a puller to remove the old ones. Then put the new races in the freezer for about 15minutes...place the rotors in the hot/hot sun (at least its hot in texas). Then use a bearing seal installer and they will go in with great ease.
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Old 05-25-2005, 10:31 AM   #8
chickenwing
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I've allways used solvent to clean my bearings... Whatcha supposed to use?
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Old 05-25-2005, 11:14 AM   #9
K5er4Life
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I usually use chem-dip, stuff works great. I have done hundreds of bearings with that stuff and never had a problem. You probably shouldnt use brake cleaner or something of the like. If you dont use a bearing packer and you do it by hand I always like to wear gloves when working on bearings and with grease. I like the nitrile gloves (the blue ones). They last a while and it is so nice to finish up what your are doingand just toss the gloves away. I find I wear my gloves alot now too, they are cheap to buy and you can get them anywhere. A few bucks for 50 gloves.

Last edited by K5er4Life; 05-25-2005 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 05-25-2005, 07:16 PM   #10
71meangreenc10
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From what Ive been told, solvents mostly the ones that have a high dissapation rate are not good for bearings, they remove all the oils from the bearings, thus the bearings are reseated when they are put back in. Kinda makes sense to me, told by a pretty reliable bearing company in TN when I was there.......
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71 C10 283/3SPD Full Resto
71 GMC 1500 Sierra Grande http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=518599
70 C10 Suburban Former military GSA truck.
72 Chevy Blazer 4X4, Sloppy Jo, Mountain Climber. Wife says no more trucks. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=707378
72 GMC 1 Ton Motor Home, wife said no more trucks until she saw this one. Gen 3 6.0/4L80E 4.10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=761110
68 GMC Suburban was 3/4 ton, now 1/2.Wife shook her head
71 C30 Wrecker
71 C20 Scott-Bilt As weird as it gets..BB Cheyenne AC Truck
68 GMC Long Stepside. They keep following me home
69 C30 Former Motor Home, Flat Bed time
70 G20 Red-E-Kamp Conversion "I'm your Boogy Van"
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Old 05-26-2005, 11:40 PM   #11
gman
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MeanGreen,

Would what you stated be the procedure for a 4x4? I have a K10........

Thanks.
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