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#1 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Waterloo, IA
Posts: 1,147
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Hooked up the HEI, runs like crap - Help please!
Took the K5 out for a ride today, and she started bucking and backfiring. I figured it was the points, since I havent looked at them since I installed them back in '94. So instead of running to the parts store and replacing the points, I thought 'Now I can put in the HEI!!'
Here's the problem: I start it up and it runs like crap! I checked the wires about 4 times, making sure they are all in the right order, and pulled the plugs/checked the gap - everything is fine. I'm starting to get a little frustrated. I crank up the idle so it will run (sort of) and I can check timing at least. I pull the vacuum advance off and she starts running like a champ!! Great throttle response, smooth idle, etc. I look for the timing mark (driver's side)to see where I'm at, and it's no where to be seen. For sh!ts and grins, I check the pass side - lo and behold there it is! Here's the questions: Is there any way that the HEI would switch the timing mark to the other side?!! This isn't a real big deal to me, since I can get it close without the light. Where should I hook up the vac, advance? I've tried both manifold and carburator with the same result (crappy performance). Probably a simple fix, but I figured it would be faster here than pulling my hair out!! Thanks, Paul
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'72 Chevy K20 - 383/4sp/205 - SOLD after 41 years in the family Next project - K/5 Tahoe (71 Blazer on 99 Tahoe chassis) Build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=789958 Last edited by Paul72; 05-31-2005 at 06:48 PM. |
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#2 |
Mike
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: west chester pa
Posts: 2,474
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I am thinking You have it in a little off.When You hook the advance up,it is making it worse because it is adding that much more advance.Bring it up to TDC,and check were the rotor is pointed.It should be at the #1 plug tower.
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70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires |
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#3 |
18 Till I Die
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,522
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I would start over. pull out the Dist. Put the engine top dead No. one, the timing mark at 0. Then drop your HEI in with the rotor pointing to no. one on the cap, About 5 oclock. Some times you have to put a big flat screwdriver down the dist. hole to turn the oilpump so it all drops in correct.
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#4 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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When I swapped to HEI from points, My timing mark was pointed way the hell out of whack from where it should have been. Like, literally, my 0ยบ mark is around 9-o'clock on the harmonic balancer and the timing light at a steady idle was showing the tming mark around 12-o'clock. Not sure how many degrees out of whack that is.
I just basically fired up the truck when it was cold w/vacuum advance off, turned the distributor around until it ran smoothly, then reattached the vacuum line. I know this is far from technical and probably the wrong thing to do, but I honestly have no idea how to set the timing on my truck with the timing mark showing so many degrees out of whack.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#5 |
Mike
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: west chester pa
Posts: 2,474
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Also,make sure You have full 12v power to the dist.The plugs should be at 045 gap.
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70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires |
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#6 |
Mike
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: west chester pa
Posts: 2,474
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To find TDC,have a helper or use a remote starter,remove the #1 plug(driverside),and bump the engine till the compression blows your finger off the plughole,bump the engine till the mark is on tdc.Now put the distributor in pointed towards the #1 plug.You should be on #1 tdc.
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70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires |
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#7 | |
State of Confusion!
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 46,923
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Quote:
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
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#8 |
Professional Grade
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta
Posts: 7,915
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Also make sure you set the base timing with the engine idling around 600 - 700 rpm with the vac advance unhooked and plugged. You wanna set it to about 12 degrees BTDC. Make sure you are not over 700 rpm though, or the internal mechanical advance may already be taking an effect.
After you have set the base timing, then put on the vac advance and set your idle speed.
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1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
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#9 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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You may want to double check your ballancer, make sure the rubber isn't rotting away and letting the outer ring slip.
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#10 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Waterloo, IA
Posts: 1,147
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GOT IT GOING!!!!
I did the old 'put the new dist pointing the same way the old one was' shortcut, and it bit me! Pulled everything out, put it on #1, and put it back together - violla! It still amazes me how far out of tune these can be and still run! I did run a new wire to the dist, and I do have 12 volts. Thanks for all the help/suggestions! I now have more confidence making Sioux Falls on Saturday! This board rules! Paul
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'72 Chevy K20 - 383/4sp/205 - SOLD after 41 years in the family Next project - K/5 Tahoe (71 Blazer on 99 Tahoe chassis) Build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=789958 |
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#11 | |
Cause the Chicks DIG IT!!
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Beaufort SC
Posts: 509
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#12 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Yup...been there, it'll drive you crazy.
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#13 | |||
Union Electrician
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Louisville, Ky.
Posts: 3,356
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Last edited by byrd; 05-31-2005 at 09:52 PM. |
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#14 |
Msgt USAF Ret
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Posts: 8,714
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HeI fixed
Glad to hear you got it fixed. Here is a great website for swapping in an HEI distributer.
http://rmcavoy.freeshell.org/HEI.html
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#15 | |
Registered User
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Location: The Other Maine!
Posts: 2,236
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1968 Chevy 4x4 307 4 speed |
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#16 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Waterloo, IA
Posts: 1,147
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Quote:
Oh well, it's all good now. Thanks again for all the help! Paul
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'72 Chevy K20 - 383/4sp/205 - SOLD after 41 years in the family Next project - K/5 Tahoe (71 Blazer on 99 Tahoe chassis) Build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=789958 |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Springville, UT, USA
Posts: 1,010
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also make sure you lean out your mixture a bit. The HEI doesn't need to be as rich in some of the cases that I've found.
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