Poly spring bushings - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ckhd · 06-14-2005, 03:33 PM

For leaf springs...

They didn't come with a metal shell like the factory rubber bushings did. Am I right to assume that they don't need the metal shell?

What about grease? I've heard that if you grease them, they squeak, and I've also heard that you have to grease them or else they will squeak. Which is right?

4x4Poet · 06-15-2005, 06:43 AM

Definitely grease them inside around the bolt shaft or they will squeak. Greaseable bolts and shackles are even better. If feasable, use a grease with plenty of thickener so it will stay there longer. What brand poly? I hope you were able to get graphite impregnated poly bushings. The graphite helps lesson squeaks, as well, though they still need grease, IMO. Not an essential feature, though.

I believe the poly bushings come without metal shells because poly won't deform as easily as rubber, so it doesn't need to be encased in metal, assuming it could be. It may just be a cost saving measure that doesn't harm performance, especially compared to rubber replacements, whether encased in metal or not.

For reference, page 136 in LMC's CB.40 catalog shows the poly spring bushings with inner metal sleeves but not outer metal casings (shells) like the original rubber bushings. Luv LMC's catalog.

ckhd · 06-15-2005, 05:56 PM

Thanks for the info. I wonder if NAPA could get me some greasable bolts.

They are Energy Suspension, I have no idea if they are graphite impregnated. I didn't know to ask...

Do I grease between the shaft and the bushing? What about between the bushing and the spring eye?

**JIMs70GMC** · 06-15-2005, 08:43 PM

I greased mine everywhere they contact the spring eye and steel bushing. I just installed them in the rear of my GMC and have new bushings in the rear springs of the Chevy. Off Road design sells the bolts that are cross drilled and tapped w/ a grease fitting. I'm sure there are other suppliers out there.

4x4Poet · 06-16-2005, 06:58 AM

The greaseable bolts aren't necessary, just da best. If you want to conserve funds, clean up the stock bolts and reuse them. The important place to grease is around the bolt sliding inside the bushing or metal sleeve and between any inner sleeves and the bushings. Good idea to grease the outside of the bushings and shoulders, also. They only need light greasing, BTW. After the springs are completely installed on the truck, wipe any excess grease so as to not attract dirt.

If the Energy Susp bushings are black, they are graphite impregnated. All other colors are not. If you don't have the black ones, I wouldn't exchange them unless you can do so for free, i.e., no shipping costs. The grease reduces squeaks more than any impregnated graphite.

06-14-2005, 03:33 PM	#1
ckhd Registered User Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: St. Johns, Arizona Posts: 2,660	Poly spring bushings For leaf springs... They didn't come with a metal shell like the factory rubber bushings did. Am I right to assume that they don't need the metal shell? What about grease? I've heard that if you grease them, they squeak, and I've also heard that you have to grease them or else they will squeak. Which is right? __________________ my 2¢ - t.i.o.l.i. Bowen 1968 K20 fleet 1969 K10 swb fleet 1972 K10 Suburban 1972 C10 lwb step 1992 K1500 'burb 1995 K2500 'burb 1997 C1500 'burb 1999 K1500 2000 K1500 'burb Why do I own so many Suburbans?

06-15-2005, 06:43 AM	#2
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Definitely grease them inside around the bolt shaft or they will squeak. Greaseable bolts and shackles are even better. If feasable, use a grease with plenty of thickener so it will stay there longer. What brand poly? I hope you were able to get graphite impregnated poly bushings. The graphite helps lesson squeaks, as well, though they still need grease, IMO. Not an essential feature, though. I believe the poly bushings come without metal shells because poly won't deform as easily as rubber, so it doesn't need to be encased in metal, assuming it could be. It may just be a cost saving measure that doesn't harm performance, especially compared to rubber replacements, whether encased in metal or not. For reference, page 136 in LMC's CB.40 catalog shows the poly spring bushings with inner metal sleeves but not outer metal casings (shells) like the original rubber bushings. Luv LMC's catalog. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

06-15-2005, 05:56 PM	#3
ckhd Registered User Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: St. Johns, Arizona Posts: 2,660	Thanks for the info. I wonder if NAPA could get me some greasable bolts. They are Energy Suspension, I have no idea if they are graphite impregnated. I didn't know to ask... Do I grease between the shaft and the bushing? What about between the bushing and the spring eye? __________________ my 2¢ - t.i.o.l.i. Bowen 1968 K20 fleet 1969 K10 swb fleet 1972 K10 Suburban 1972 C10 lwb step 1992 K1500 'burb 1995 K2500 'burb 1997 C1500 'burb 1999 K1500 2000 K1500 'burb Why do I own so many Suburbans?

06-15-2005, 08:43 PM	#4
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	I greased mine everywhere they contact the spring eye and steel bushing. I just installed them in the rear of my GMC and have new bushings in the rear springs of the Chevy. Off Road design sells the bolts that are cross drilled and tapped w/ a grease fitting. I'm sure there are other suppliers out there. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

06-16-2005, 06:58 AM	#5
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	The greaseable bolts aren't necessary, just da best. If you want to conserve funds, clean up the stock bolts and reuse them. The important place to grease is around the bolt sliding inside the bushing or metal sleeve and between any inner sleeves and the bushings. Good idea to grease the outside of the bushings and shoulders, also. They only need light greasing, BTW. After the springs are completely installed on the truck, wipe any excess grease so as to not attract dirt. If the Energy Susp bushings are black, they are graphite impregnated. All other colors are not. If you don't have the black ones, I wouldn't exchange them unless you can do so for free, i.e., no shipping costs. The grease reduces squeaks more than any impregnated graphite. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. Last edited by 4x4Poet; 06-16-2005 at 07:00 AM.



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