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#1 |
Active Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Atwater, CA
Posts: 259
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Shimming a starter
Trying to help a friend get the starter on a blazer he just bought working right. The previous owner had problems with the starter engaging and said he had even spent over 500 dollars at a shop getting a new flexplate and starter put on it. 2 months later it didn't work again.My friend just finished putting a new starter in it and brought it over and it will start but it makes a nasty grinding noise as it does. Thought I'd ask the wealth on knowledge here to help us get the thing shimmed right, or whatever it's gonna take. Thanks in advance.
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Kevin 72 Chevelle 67 C10...454/TH400 Build Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=193961 |
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#2 |
blood type; Retumbo
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: next to my reloading bench
Posts: 10,269
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many "reman" starters have the nose cone machined. I would suggest hitting the dealer for a new nosecone. these shouldnt have any shims at all. I used to have a wire guage for setting the distance between the starter shaft & flywheel. I dont remember the distance so I will have to try to find it.
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Man rule #77...if you own a 67 stepside with a caddy 472 you will never be in danger of loosing you man card |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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if it's makin noise the first thing to do is to check the flexplate for rounded off teeth ,it doesn't take long to trash a flexplate
i like the hi=torque ministarters they're easy to install and most have lots of adjustments built in
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dayton, Tx (in Old River)
Posts: 286
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I had this problem on my 76 Chev years back. What we ended up doing was getting a NEW nose cone....Using a paper clip as the "mesh" gap....milled the nose cone by file until it fit. Haven't had a problem since. That was in '92. Just remind my sons that if starter goes out...KEEP the nose cone. Hope this helps.
Seems as if it was in a "Chilton's Manual" I read that was the difference. I know it's NOT much gap. Billy G
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My FAMOUS LAST WORDS...."Ima Gonna!!" - 1970 GMC 1500 swb/step 250 I-6 3 spd - "The GEM" - 1976 Chev Scotsdale swb/step 350/350 - "The JEWEL" - 1982 Chev C-10 swb/step 250 I-6 3 spd - - 2001 Chev Silverado LT - Last edited by Billy G; 07-04-2005 at 10:05 AM. Reason: Paper clip as 'feeler gauge' |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Cheyenne, Wy
Posts: 555
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I had a problem a while ago, found out I needed to stop buying starters from autozone. I spent a little extra on a mini stater and haven't had a problem since!
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2014 GMC Yukon XL (Wifey's) 2004 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab Z71 |
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#6 |
Black 72 Chevy
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 662
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When I replaced the starter and flexplate on my truck, I used no shims at first. With no shims my starter would make a really bad grinding noise. Shim it and start with the thinest.
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#7 |
~Rest In Peace~
Join Date: May 2005
Location: CALIFORNIA NOR CAL
Posts: 9,707
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grind the nose off of mine to after shimming didnt take it out
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is it fast ? it has a lighting bolt donut? B___H please, I can remove 90% of your so called "beauty" with a kleenex |
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#8 |
Designated A-hole!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: South Mississippi
Posts: 36,450
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I had the same problem and shimming it wouldn't fix it. Went to a local auto electric shop and he sold me a nosecone that fixed my problems.
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. ![]() We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: metro Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 241
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Howdy:
where is a good source for shims? Have a bit of a problem with my 67, but not severe. Most parts counter people here don't know what I'm talking about, and not having any shims to show them (never needed any before), I can't get across to them what they are, or what them look like. |
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#10 |
just can't cover up my redneck
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 11,414
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Usually there is a "HELP!" rack at the bigger autoparts stores........they should have shims there.
I always keep the old housing though. Sure it's more work, swapping ends, but you know it will fit then. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: metro Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 241
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Howdy;
thanks again, Longhair. Saving a properly fitted nose is the hot tip , but this one was noisey when I bought this truck. Have been taking care of a bunch of other things first so starting on a regular basis hasn't been a huge consideration yet, but will be soon. cowboy33713 |
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#12 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,255
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Better yet take the starter to an Auto Electric sshop and have them rebuild it. There is a very good auto electric shop in Sacramento and I take all of my starters and alternators to them. Three years ago I road my bicycle in the rain to deliever the starter off my S10 4.3L (PIA to remove and install). They were gracious enough to build it in two hours while I went for coffee. Substantial tip offered though not accepted. The rain quit after I got home, go figure
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Got bored, sold everthing. Got bored, looking for a 1960-66 C-10. Want to build my last truck. |
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#13 |
BEER-Vacation in a can...
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: wichita, ks
Posts: 444
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Shims won't fix this one....you are to far away from the flexplate with the conditions you are discribing (go ahead, ask me how I know) you either need to get the nosecone milled or better yet, shop around for a "80 thousands" starter-a Gm starter that is already milled .080 I called the manufacture, Westling starter, westling.com and they hooked me up with the part number and a local distributor and after 2yr of the same crap your friend is going through it was fixed. my part number was 729106s-080 for a 350. good luck
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Kurt 03' Trailblazer 69' C10 "SPSHL-K", 388 stroker/BTO 700R4, 2400 stall, 3.73 posi, lwb, fleetside long box, 3.5"/5" drop, 18" Budnik 2000 Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom For Sale-87' V10-4x4, 408/700r4, 4.10's PM for pics |
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#14 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: madison indiana
Posts: 3,839
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hey krue how much was the new nose cone???
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jamie72 72 BB cheyenne -- Restoration getting started.. member #807 http://www.myspace.com/whitetailobsession www.antlertalk.com |
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#15 |
Designated A-hole!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: South Mississippi
Posts: 36,450
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I think it was thirty or forty bucks. I heard someone on here got one a lot cheaper. It uses the two bolts holes straight across instead of the diagonal holes. Gets it a few thousandths closer to the flywheel. I put it on a new starter and kept the new starter's nosecone to put back on when/if I have to replace it under warranty.
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. ![]() We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
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