one wire alternator - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

slick9997 · 08-12-2002, 08:23 PM

I have 69 chevy. I put a one wire alternator on it. does anybody know if i can take the old wires and voltage regulator and wire out and how to do it with screwing anything up?
The help will be appreciated.
slick

Low67C10 · 08-12-2002, 10:07 PM

you can remove all that stuff, I removed the regulator and all the charging sysytem wires from the firewall forward.

barn9 · 08-12-2002, 10:31 PM

This is one of those good questions that comes up every so often, and the answer could depend on what year truck is in question (I think, although I readily admit that I'm an electrical retard). This is definately one of those topics that warrants some expert information in my opinion. I switched over to the new style alt. 2 yrs. ago, but have not removed any of the old "stuff", for fear of screwing something up. This would be one of those topics that I would like to see covered in a tech section if we get one, or maybe someone could share some appropriate info that could be saved either here or some other cyber-source. I'm sure there are others besides myself and slick9997 that do not want to start cutting wires, etc., untill we know for sure what we are cutting, and what the results could be.

mikep · 08-13-2002, 12:53 AM

You can

a.Wire the hot lead directly to the battery and simply disconnect the voltage regulator. This is the best way to do it as you are not running full charging amperage through the ammeter anymore. Since your circuitry should be sized to at least 125 % of the maximum capacity of the alternator you could potentially cause problems if you were ever to come into a full load situation with a LOT of accesories, an accidental short to ground or a bad battery. If you have a camper this is probably the way to go. I have a electric winch on my boat which draws off my battery so I use this way. The disadvantage is that your ammeter will not work. If your circuit is not sized to handle 125 amps which it is not then go this route unless you like the posibility of electrical fires. Dont tell me it cant happen . I have scars on my foot from a '69 C10 that had a one wire 100 amp alternator and was wired to run through the ammeter and the wiring caught fire. ( I will state for the record the previous owner had replaced the inline fuses with bolt shanks. Stupid Bastard! )

b. To use this method you MUST use circuit protection and you will be limited in alternator output to that rating. Make it 40 amps. . You can wire the alternator to run through the ammeter circuit by wiring a 10 gauge wire from the hot lead on the alternator to the old charging line that ran to the alternator. There are 4 wires that go the the regulator . wire red and blue together. yellow and brown go together as well. Thats it. Your'e done .You can either wire them together with a good splice or you can jumper the connections with 1/4 male spade terminals and some jumpers.

slick9997 · 08-13-2002, 05:00 AM

hey Mike will not be using the ammeter. going to put in voltmeter iI need to know if I can get rid of wire all the way to the firewall plug?
Also can i get rid of the wire's for the 4 amp on the sides of the fender?
slick

68 Suburban · 08-16-2002, 09:16 AM

Ok, I assume the 1 wire alternators are internally regulated? What are the advantages/disadvantages of a one wire setup?

mikep · 08-16-2002, 09:39 AM

The one wire alternators use self exciting diodes and do not require an external power source to "turn on" the alternator like older internally regulated alternors do so there is no two prong plug running to the keyed ignition switch. There is only the power output terminal. Makes for a really clean and easy instalation. As long as the engine is running over 1000 rpm or so they charge. Most have a higher charging capacity or amperage rating as well. I have one that was set up by alterstart in Dallas. Its a 105 amp one wire alternator and it works GREAT ! Cost with shipping was shy of $60. I also like to mention that talterstart sells permanent magnet gear reduction starters brand new in the box for $100. i have one and I'll never use an old style starter again.

Slick9997. I am not sure what you mean by all the wires. yu still need to have power running to your fuse block etc.

diggin69 · 08-16-2002, 09:40 AM

I not sure if this is right I went to the 86 & under internal alt. mine has a pig tail that plugs in on 1 side & the battery post thing on the other the new plug has a red & white wire I took the red wire from the bulkhead to red on the new plug then jumped the white wire to the battery side of the alt then ran a wire off the same terminal the white was hooked to straight to the battery I dont know if this is right every thing works but it dosnt hold a charge good.......is this the 1 wire hook up alt you were talking about or do me & Barn9 have to start us a RETARD club, sorry Barn.......but I'm starting to feel like I'm in the same boat......I did take the wires off the truck that ga to--- voltage reg.,the junction block by the battery.... you know that wire that comes off the battery to the fender & if it isnt hooked up the truck is deid in the water all that wire is gone & need more info about this I would like to run the amp meter on the gauges......any help maybe walk us threw it.....& " TALK LIKE I'M A 3YR OLD" help please.....

Diggin

Longhorn Man · 08-16-2002, 10:34 AM

The disadvantages of a onw wire include no dummy lights, not havng a working amp guage, and not charging untill you blip the throttle.
The charging at 1000 RPM thing all depends on your puly sizes, sometimes you actually have to rev the pee out of it to get it to start charging.

68 Suburban · 08-16-2002, 10:36 AM

Quote:

To use this method you MUST use circuit protection and you will be limited in alternator output to that rating. Make it 40 amps. . You can wire the alternator to run through the ammeter circuit by wiring a 10 gauge wire from the hot lead on the alternator to the old charging line that ran to the alternator. There are 4 wires that go the the regulator .

when you use an externally regulated alternator rated at 135 amps, do you have to worry about any of this????

mikep · 08-16-2002, 12:12 PM

You can have a working amp guage. You just have to run the full charging circuit through the ammeter but thats what you do with the old style alternator anyway.

Yes and no with the 135 externally regulated alternator. It doesnt matter if its a one wire or externally regulated alternator to your wiring. With a 135 amp alternator you are only going to build 135 amps if you are under full alternator load though. Thats almost never going to happen unless you are charging a fully dead battery with your accesories all on, auxiliary fog lights, big bass stereo at full volume and the cigarette lighter all going at the same time. Your alternator is only going to put out what is required off it in other words. 135 amps is a lot of power! I'd still have a 40 amp circuit breaker in the line to the ammeter if you are using one.

I have a big 5 inch moroso racing pulley on mine.Its on there more for the depth of the pulley so I dont throw belts than the width as the last motor it was on saw 8000 rpm sometimes. I dont start charging until around 1800 rpm. Ive never had a problem charging with that setup.

08-12-2002, 08:23 PM	#1
slick9997 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Lancaster, S.C. Posts: 37	one wire alternator I have 69 chevy. I put a one wire alternator on it. does anybody know if i can take the old wires and voltage regulator and wire out and how to do it with screwing anything up? The help will be appreciated. slick

08-12-2002, 10:07 PM	#2
Low67C10 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Southern California Posts: 66	you can remove all that stuff, I removed the regulator and all the charging sysytem wires from the firewall forward. __________________ No, Its not a 454

08-12-2002, 10:31 PM	#3
barn9 Half a bubble off! Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Winfield, Ks, USA Posts: 5,588	This is one of those good questions that comes up every so often, and the answer could depend on what year truck is in question (I think, although I readily admit that I'm an electrical retard). This is definately one of those topics that warrants some expert information in my opinion. I switched over to the new style alt. 2 yrs. ago, but have not removed any of the old "stuff", for fear of screwing something up. This would be one of those topics that I would like to see covered in a tech section if we get one, or maybe someone could share some appropriate info that could be saved either here or some other cyber-source. I'm sure there are others besides myself and slick9997 that do not want to start cutting wires, etc., untill we know for sure what we are cutting, and what the results could be. __________________ Just call me LB. '71 Cheyenne, 402BB, hauls blondes, brunettes, or redheads.

08-13-2002, 12:53 AM	#4
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	You can a.Wire the hot lead directly to the battery and simply disconnect the voltage regulator. This is the best way to do it as you are not running full charging amperage through the ammeter anymore. Since your circuitry should be sized to at least 125 % of the maximum capacity of the alternator you could potentially cause problems if you were ever to come into a full load situation with a LOT of accesories, an accidental short to ground or a bad battery. If you have a camper this is probably the way to go. I have a electric winch on my boat which draws off my battery so I use this way. The disadvantage is that your ammeter will not work. If your circuit is not sized to handle 125 amps which it is not then go this route unless you like the posibility of electrical fires. Dont tell me it cant happen . I have scars on my foot from a '69 C10 that had a one wire 100 amp alternator and was wired to run through the ammeter and the wiring caught fire. ( I will state for the record the previous owner had replaced the inline fuses with bolt shanks. Stupid Bastard! ) b. To use this method you MUST use circuit protection and you will be limited in alternator output to that rating. Make it 40 amps. . You can wire the alternator to run through the ammeter circuit by wiring a 10 gauge wire from the hot lead on the alternator to the old charging line that ran to the alternator. There are 4 wires that go the the regulator . wire red and blue together. yellow and brown go together as well. Thats it. Your'e done .You can either wire them together with a good splice or you can jumper the connections with 1/4 male spade terminals and some jumpers. __________________ No truck :-( Last edited by mikep; 08-13-2002 at 12:58 AM.

08-13-2002, 05:00 AM	#5
slick9997 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Lancaster, S.C. Posts: 37	one wire hey Mike will not be using the ammeter. going to put in voltmeter iI need to know if I can get rid of wire all the way to the firewall plug? Also can i get rid of the wire's for the 4 amp on the sides of the fender? slick Last edited by slick9997; 08-13-2002 at 05:15 AM.

08-16-2002, 09:16 AM	#6
68 Suburban Registered User Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ Posts: 6,802	Ok, I assume the 1 wire alternators are internally regulated? What are the advantages/disadvantages of a one wire setup? __________________ Just sitting here contemplating contemplation. Last edited by 68 Suburban; 08-16-2002 at 09:26 AM.

08-16-2002, 09:39 AM	#7
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	The one wire alternators use self exciting diodes and do not require an external power source to "turn on" the alternator like older internally regulated alternors do so there is no two prong plug running to the keyed ignition switch. There is only the power output terminal. Makes for a really clean and easy instalation. As long as the engine is running over 1000 rpm or so they charge. Most have a higher charging capacity or amperage rating as well. I have one that was set up by alterstart in Dallas. Its a 105 amp one wire alternator and it works GREAT ! Cost with shipping was shy of $60. I also like to mention that talterstart sells permanent magnet gear reduction starters brand new in the box for $100. i have one and I'll never use an old style starter again. Slick9997. I am not sure what you mean by all the wires. yu still need to have power running to your fuse block etc. __________________ No truck :-(

08-16-2002, 09:40 AM	#8
diggin69 Southern but in Ohio!!!! Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Eaton,Oh. 45320 Posts: 467	I not sure if this is right I went to the 86 & under internal alt. mine has a pig tail that plugs in on 1 side & the battery post thing on the other the new plug has a red & white wire I took the red wire from the bulkhead to red on the new plug then jumped the white wire to the battery side of the alt then ran a wire off the same terminal the white was hooked to straight to the battery I dont know if this is right every thing works but it dosnt hold a charge good.......is this the 1 wire hook up alt you were talking about or do me & Barn9 have to start us a RETARD club, sorry Barn.......but I'm starting to feel like I'm in the same boat......I did take the wires off the truck that ga to--- voltage reg.,the junction block by the battery.... you know that wire that comes off the battery to the fender & if it isnt hooked up the truck is deid in the water all that wire is gone & need more info about this I would like to run the amp meter on the gauges......any help maybe walk us threw it.....& " TALK LIKE I'M A 3YR OLD" help please..... Diggin __________________ 1969 C/10 3/4 ton 4x4 longbed custom, frame made from a 79 1972 custom-10 half/ton longbed 1980 1/2 ton 4x4 all original 350/350/205 with air Eaton,Oh rebelryder@hotmail.com Last edited by diggin69; 08-16-2002 at 09:51 AM.

08-16-2002, 10:34 AM	#9
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	The disadvantages of a onw wire include no dummy lights, not havng a working amp guage, and not charging untill you blip the throttle. The charging at 1000 RPM thing all depends on your puly sizes, sometimes you actually have to rev the pee out of it to get it to start charging.

08-16-2002, 12:12 PM	#11
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	You can have a working amp guage. You just have to run the full charging circuit through the ammeter but thats what you do with the old style alternator anyway. Yes and no with the 135 externally regulated alternator. It doesnt matter if its a one wire or externally regulated alternator to your wiring. With a 135 amp alternator you are only going to build 135 amps if you are under full alternator load though. Thats almost never going to happen unless you are charging a fully dead battery with your accesories all on, auxiliary fog lights, big bass stereo at full volume and the cigarette lighter all going at the same time. Your alternator is only going to put out what is required off it in other words. 135 amps is a lot of power! I'd still have a 40 amp circuit breaker in the line to the ammeter if you are using one. I have a big 5 inch moroso racing pulley on mine.Its on there more for the depth of the pulley so I dont throw belts than the width as the last motor it was on saw 8000 rpm sometimes. I dont start charging until around 1800 rpm. Ive never had a problem charging with that setup. __________________ No truck :-( Last edited by mikep; 08-16-2002 at 01:18 PM.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.