67 front disc conversion

[junkyarddog67]

I have the front spindles and disc brakes from a 71 GMC. I want to convert my 67 to disc brakes. Will the spindles and calipers bolt on or are there mods that will need to be done?

[fade94]

I think you have to replace one or both of the ball joints. Someone that has done this will chime in hopefully.

[Jim_PA]

I don't remember reading anything about ball joints when I did the research... You will need a new proportioning valve, and it's a good time to replace the master cylinder.

Here's what I've collected so far, and I'm hoping this is about all I'll need. I plan on making some kind of write up/taking pictures while doing this...

71-72 parts (so far $390.00):
spindles (used)
master cylinder (reman)
calipers (reman)
pads (new)
bearings (new)
proportioning valve (used)
brake hoses (new stainless steel)
oil seals (new)
rotors (new)

I'll probably end up bending new brake lines for it, but I haven't had the time to give the old ones a good inspection yet.

[VetteVet]

check this thread in the FAQS.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...77#post1298277

[67ChevyRedneck]

I did the exact conversion your doing, 67 chevy with 71 GMC disks. I used the entire suspension (crossmemeber and all) and bolted it right into place. If you don't want to do that the link vettevet has tells what you need to do to "just add" the spindles. I tore the suspension completly apart and bought new EVERYTHING for it, painted it and put it all back together. I love them disks and power brakes, stops MUCH better now!

[Jim_PA]

That's pretty hard to follow....

So, the ball joints have to be replaced too?

[dennislbrooks]

All above is good input. If you want to retain the 67 suspension as I did,t hose stock bushings will never squeak if greased. Use the upper and lower balljoints that match the spindle. The outer tie rods are the small problem as you need to get the ones that fit the year of the spindle. The 71 's are 11/16" RH thread. Your 67 coupler is 5/8" LH thread. Choices are to buy an adapter coupler, rethread the 71 outers to 5/8" LH---as I do-- use the originally 67 ---a little different taper and not recommended ---or change out the whole saddle of suspension. You probably need lower balljoints anyway. The upper A-Arm bushing wear faster than the lowers. Check them out when you replace the balljoints and make sure all will take grease. It takes me about 30 mins a piece to change the outer tie rod threads. The disc are great especially with power brakes.

[Jim_PA]

OUCH! Add another $268 to my list.... At least almost everything under there will be new.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by Jim_PA

OUCH! Add another $268 to my list.... At least almost everything under there will be new.

Trust me, it's worth it. I was absolutely shocked at how my truck handled after my suspension rebuild. It still could use a sway bar, but even at high speeds there are NO vibrations from the front end at all, no more "wandering" on the road, and it steers straight as an arrow.

One thing I'm not sure anyone mentioned, if you used 71-72 spindles with a 67-69 lower A arm you will not be able to turn your wheel the proper amount from "lock to lock." The metal bump stops for disk and drum spindles is different. Count how many times your steering wheel turns from lock to lock and try to replicate that by grinding some of the "tit" on the spindle off until you get the proper turning radius. (I ended up using my 67 lower A arms because I didn't realize the 71's I bought were bent on the passenger side, they were coated with mud.) Don't bang or grind on the bump stop on the A arm, only grind on the spindle.

[Jim_PA]

I haven't even driven it yet, but it's been sitting for quite a while and the brakes don't work at all right now (pedal goes to the floor). I figured I would be better off in the long run ditching the drums for discs and not even bother trying to fix the drums.

Good info there about the grinding... didn't know that either

[boraxman]

Also remember if yuor doing your own work to have a BFH(hammer). You will need to do some beating removing old parts. When you think theres no way its coming off, one more blow gets it

[junkyarddog67]

Thanks for all the info. I have the entire steering cross member. It sounds like it would be easier to just drop in the entire unit. Thanks again for all the advice.

[70GMCer]

Go here and get what you need in kit form. Just get the 71/72 2wd kit. I've bought from these people before without any problems.....

http://www.p-s-t.com/truck/tvfekstd.html