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Old 08-23-2005, 07:48 PM   #1
lowrider79
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sound proofing

I am looking to do a complete sound deading or sound proofing whatever you may want to call it to the inside of my cab including the doors, firewall, floor ect.. What is the best method or product?
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:57 PM   #2
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I used brown bread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=168095
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Old 08-23-2005, 08:35 PM   #3
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Like farside847 said, I used Brown Bread too. There is a thread with information about this in the FAQ forum. Take a look at my post (#10) in this thread- Info inside it has links to quite a few threads on the subject....
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Old 08-23-2005, 11:40 PM   #4
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Brown Bread it is
Thanks
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Old 08-25-2005, 12:35 AM   #5
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I am thinking about sound deadening my truck once it actually has a decent floor in it and rockers and such, and was wondering if brown bread or dynamat or really any stick on deadener is worth doing. My worry is if the truck starts to rust again, how do I get the stuff off to weld it up? I used it in my corvette and it worked wonders on the exhaust drone, but it's not made of metal so it won't rust. Anyone have an opinion on this, as this will be my daily driver, summer and winter. Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2005, 05:34 AM   #6
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mudd, on another sound deadener thread, I expressed that rust concern under stick on products. Another board member provided this link to non-adhesive sound deadener that also has aluminum for heat shielding:

http://www.lobucrod.com./
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Old 08-26-2005, 08:05 AM   #7
lowrider79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddpile
I am thinking about sound deadening my truck once it actually has a decent floor in it and rockers and such, and was wondering if brown bread or dynamat or really any stick on deadener is worth doing. My worry is if the truck starts to rust again, how do I get the stuff off to weld it up? I used it in my corvette and it worked wonders on the exhaust drone, but it's not made of metal so it won't rust. Anyone have an opinion on this, as this will be my daily driver, summer and winter. Thanks!
Just thinking out loud. Won't the stick on stuff keep dirt and moisture out from between it and the metal? Yesterday a friend of mine said he had a jungle growing between his box mat and the box because moisture and dirt get between the two. If you fix the rust and coat the metal good how long would it be before it rusts again? Let me know what you think. Thanks
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Old 08-26-2005, 08:14 AM   #8
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RinoLine it!
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Old 08-26-2005, 08:46 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddpile
I am thinking about sound deadening my truck once it actually has a decent floor in it and rockers and such, and was wondering if brown bread or dynamat or really any stick on deadener is worth doing. My worry is if the truck starts to rust again....!
I can tell you it's well worth doing. I just have my doors and the back of my doior panels done so far and it mad a HUGE difference in interior noise. My doors shut with a nice solid thud now as well.

Your concern over rust is an issue that needs to be addressed in advance. If you have clean, rust free metal under the sound deadener rust won't be a concern....
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Old 08-26-2005, 10:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burbinite
RinoLine it!
little or no insullation value/little or no soundproofing/nightmare to remove inside of cab in the future// A GOOD CHOICE??
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Old 08-26-2005, 02:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowrider79
Just thinking out loud. Won't the stick on stuff keep dirt and moisture out from between it and the metal? Yesterday a friend of mine said he had a jungle growing between his box mat and the box because moisture and dirt get between the two. If you fix the rust and coat the metal good how long would it be before it rusts again? Let me know what you think. Thanks
This stuff sticks like snot on a hoe handle. If anything, it will make the metal impervious to moisture attack. Provided, that is, the metal is rust-free to start with. If you've ever scraped any undercoating off a frame or inner fender you'll see the metal is still pristine. The stuff I used is the heat and apply type. Once installed, it's nearly impossible to remove it without a heat gun.
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Old 08-26-2005, 06:17 PM   #12
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I was just concerned about it rusting from the outside in, but I guess I should be able to notice if it starts to do that. I am doing the body and painting it this winter (new doors, cab corners, rockers, floor pans) so I guess rust shouldn't be a huge concern, and I'll be sure to undercoat the bottom good. I guess another good defense against rust is the fact that I'll be using a rubber mat on the floor instead of carpet, so water getting through won't be a problem either. Brown Bread on the floor, doors and firewall it is! Looks like I'll be buying another shop roll.
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Old 08-26-2005, 07:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mocwon
This stuff sticks like snot on a hoe handle. If anything, it will make the metal impervious to moisture attack. Provided, that is, the metal is rust-free to start with. If you've ever scraped any undercoating off a frame or inner fender you'll see the metal is still pristine. The stuff I used is the heat and apply type. Once installed, it's nearly impossible to remove it without a heat gun.
My thoughts exactly
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Old 08-27-2005, 01:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mocwon
This stuff sticks like snot on a hoe handle. If anything, it will make the metal impervious to moisture attack. Provided, that is, the metal is rust-free to start with...
That's good IF the adhesive is stuck everywhere with no unadhered spots that could collect water. Not a huge concern if water rusts a small spot, but a concern nevertheless.
Quote:
Originally Posted by N2TRUX
I can tell you it's well worth doing. I just have my doors and the back of my doior panels done so far and it mad a HUGE difference in interior noise. My doors shut with a nice solid thud now as well.
No doubt you're right about the sound deadening improvement, but the doors & door panels don't have rust concerns like the floor and bottom of the doors.
Quote:
Your concern over rust is an issue that needs to be addressed in advance. If you have clean, rust free metal under the sound deadener rust won't be a concern....
Generally true, but not a sure bet if water gets between the sound deadener and the floor no matter the coating. Even POR15 can deteriorate from heat, rubbing, body flex, etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by muddpile
...I guess another good defense against rust is the fact that I'll be using a rubber mat on the floor instead of carpet, so water getting through won't be a problem either....
Brownbread sounds great for the doors. For the floor, know that rubber doesn't breath, so it experiences condensation. That's one of the reasons our truck floors rust so often. The other two are porous carpets and leaking cowl sealant, windshield rubber, etc. I'm also speaking more of overall surface rust than seam rust at the sheetmetal joints.

On another sound deadener thread, another poster mentioned he stuck adhesive sound deadener to the bottom of the floor mat. I thought that's a great idea for rubber floormats (not carpet ). That would place any aluminum facing towards the floor to deflect heat before the heat reaches the sound deadener foam (or whatever it is). Then the two can be pulled up together to check the floor and take any needed future rust protection. As to longevity, how often does one replace a rubber floor mat?

Whether to use adhesive sound deadener or not is a little dilemma for me. I know adhesive is the way to go for the doors and removeable trannyhumps, but the floor is where water collects, so I'm still thinking about what to use for floor sound deadener.
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Last edited by 4x4Poet; 08-27-2005 at 01:29 AM.
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Old 08-27-2005, 01:56 AM   #15
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My soundproofing choices seemed so clear before... quiet cab vs. sneaky rust hmm...
just turn the radio up another notch and ignore it?
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Old 08-27-2005, 09:23 AM   #16
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I used Dynamat Extreme...I am very happy with the results!
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Old 08-27-2005, 09:38 AM   #17
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Thumbs up

I used Dynamat extreme also and it works great and was easy to install. Chris
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Old 08-27-2005, 05:28 PM   #18
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Great thread but I need to replace the rusty floors first..... I thought it was as easy as sticking some brown bread down but there are a few good pointers in this thread ...
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