engine pull suggestions? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

shifty · 08-27-2005, 11:01 PM

came home after work friday, spent about an hour tearing down all the wiring and draining all the fluids out of the L6. tonight, spent another 3 hours taking off the hood (tough to do alone without wrecking it), unbolting the tranny linkage, removing the starter, alternator and brackets, hoses, carb + intake, headers, unbolted it and i'm ready to pull...

so, on to the question: i wanna yank the L6 and the 3spd tranny all at the same time. is this recommended while the front clip is still on the truck? is it even possible?

i have a choice - remove the 4 bolts to the bellhousing and yank the engine right now, or remove the driveshaft and two tranny mount bolts and pull it all.

suggestions?

here's a picture of my progress

TRUCKGUY · 08-27-2005, 11:14 PM

i would put a yoke in the back of the trans so fluid wouldnt go everywheres....you probly done know that tho....

69 longhorn · 08-27-2005, 11:16 PM

the trans is pretty light, i would drop it from the bottom, then pick the eng /with bell straight up. you can bench that trans easy....at least i did when i was 20 ,or so. be carefull.....crazyL

shifty · 08-27-2005, 11:30 PM

Actually, I didn't know that about the fluids, Dan, so very good info.

How do I pop the driveshaft out of the tailshaft of the tranny so I can pull it?

neonlarry · 08-27-2005, 11:53 PM

Do you have a TH350? I just pulled mine tranny and all(TH350). I put a piece of wood across under the drive shaft so it would not fall, drained what I could out of the tranny. As soon as the tranny poped loose I zip tied a plastic bag over the tail shaft to catch whatever came out the back and pulled the whole thing. It really helps to have an adjustable engine puller so you can angle the front up and get it to clear the front, and then level it back out to clear the tranny. Much easier to get the bell housing bolts out and keep the TC from puking all over.

**VetteVet** · 08-27-2005, 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shifty

Actually, I didn't know that about the fluids, Dan, so very good info.

How do I pop the driveshaft out of the tailshaft of the tranny so I can pull it?

Do you have a one piece drive shaft or the carrier bearing type. If it's one piece just pull the u-bolts off the rear end pinion and slide the DS forward until it clears the pinion and then drop it down and back out of the tranny. If you have the carrier 2 piece you'll have to drop the center support bearing and then the rear pinion bolts. One thing to do is to mark the u-joints in the pinion so you can install them in the same location later. This is for balance reasons.
I personally prefer to pull both units at once cause it's easier to separate the engine and tranny and torque converter outside the truck. It's pretty hard to not lose fluid either way you do it. Good Luck

shifty · 08-28-2005, 12:03 AM

I have a one piece driveshaft. Hell, I don't even know how to drain the fluids. I'm kinda dumb in that regard

I've yanked and replaced the engine before, but the tranny thing is all new to me.

If anyone can add anything else that will help, I'm game. It's a 3spd synchronized Saginaw, one piece driveshaft.

Thanks for the info guys, especially the long post you made V².

**VetteVet** · 08-28-2005, 12:48 AM

Shifty I forgot you had the manual. That changes things as far as I'm concerned I would pull the tranny first and then the engine. A three speed isn't bad to get out and it makes the engine easier to clear. Just pull the DS and the shift and clutch linkage and the xmember mount bolts and unbolt it from the engine. Piece of cake.

pritch · 08-28-2005, 01:15 AM

I don't know about pulling it out, but I had one heck of a time putting my engine/trans back in as a unit (I6 w/ 3 speed). The top of the bell houseing was hitting on the firewall and the oilpan was hitting on the rad support. I finally got it, but it wasn't easy.

junkyardjohn · 08-28-2005, 11:29 AM

JUST YANK THE MOTOR BY ITSELF & THEN PULL THE TRANNY ONCE THE ENGINE IS OUT OF THE WAY. WHO TOLD YOU IT WOULD BE SIMPLER TO PULL THEM TOGETHER ANYWAY?? IT'S PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWORD & SIMPLE. YOURE MAKING A BIG DEAL OUT OF NOTHING. IF YOU CAN R&R A MOTOR.... A TRANNY WILL BE NO PROBLEM.

JOHN

ChevyDude · 08-28-2005, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by junkyardjohn

JUST YANK THE MOTOR BY ITSELF & THEN PULL THE TRANNY ONCE THE ENGINE IS OUT OF THE WAY. WHO TOLD YOU IT WOULD BE SIMPLER TO PULL THEM TOGETHER ANYWAY?? IT'S PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWORD & SIMPLE. YOURE MAKING A BIG DEAL OUT OF NOTHING. IF YOU CAN R&R A MOTOR.... A TRANNY WILL BE NO PROBLEM.

JOHN

Agreed! Yank the 6...then drop the Trans!!! Very Simple!!!

Longhorn Man · 08-28-2005, 11:49 AM

personally, i see no point in trying to pull them both together. The length of the engine and tranny together is askin for trouble IMO...ESP if you are workin alone.
Drop the tranny oud from under the truck, then jerk the engine out.

cdowns · 08-28-2005, 12:01 PM

3hours to unbolt a hood?? i just hook the engine crane to the front of the hood blankets on the fenders unbolt it and roll out the way 15-20minutes tops for oneman job//it actually takes longer if you have help

junkyardjohn · 08-28-2005, 12:07 PM

I DON'T KNOW WHY I DIDN'T THINK TO USE AN ENGINE HOIST AS A THIRD & FORTH HAND TO PULL HOODS. I'LL TRY THAT. JOHN

Longhorn Man · 08-28-2005, 12:17 PM

I never thoguht of that either...but I always manage to pull mine (and install too) by mysaelf with no damage. 15 min tops on pulling it....20 installing NOT allowing to allighn it perfectly.

**VetteVet** · 08-28-2005, 01:29 PM

I pulled my engine by nyself and all I did was unbolt the forward mounts on the hood hinges and loosen the rear ones. I stood the hood straight up and used pads to protect the paint. I unbolted the tranny and pulled just the engine. When I got it high enough I turned it sideways and lifted it up and out. I have an engine tilt and without that I couldn't have done it. I usually work by myself and if I had pulled the hood off with the hoist, which I had thought about doing,I wouldn't have been able to move it around. As soon as I got some help we pulled the hood off and stored it in the garage.
I have a $4000.00 paint job on my truck so I'm going to be awful careful not to damage it.
The worst thing about working by yourself is having to get up and down from under the vehicle to get tools. At my age it is getting harder. LOL

shifty · 08-28-2005, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdowns

3hours to unbolt a hood??

Took 10 minutes, used same method V² described in the post above this one.

Going downstairs to get pulling. Hope to have everything yanked out and sitting on stands by 5pm so I can clean up the bay and respray it (including grinding out the rivets on tranny xmember and removing it)

Is it necessary to drain the tranny of fluid before pulling out the driveshaft (or removing it)?

Oh - and junkyardjohn - you'll hafta forgive my stupidity, I have been doing troubleshooting and repairs on my own cars my entire life - imports and older domestics alike, all kinds of repairs - but I have never pulled an engine till 8 months ago and I've never rebuilt one in my life. I have a LOT of catching up to do to be at your level of know-how and I'm working alone most of the time with the help and advice of the people here at this forum

Purs · 08-28-2005, 03:07 PM

haven't read the all the posts but will throw my 2 cents in.... I will never again try to install (or pull) an engine/tranny without removing the front clip. It took so little time to remove and made things SO much easier. JMHO

Fred T · 08-28-2005, 03:17 PM

There should be a drain plug on the 3 speed, which will get enough of the gear oil out. It's a lot cleaner without the lube spilling all over. I would not remove the engine/tranny together without removing either the front clip or the radiator support. And you just about have to have a leveler, a hoist that goes very high and a 10' ceiling to clear the rad. support.

TRUCKGUY · 08-28-2005, 04:28 PM

i agree with them you have 4 bolts holding the trans in and the shifting linkages easy to take out if you want i will grab some pictures of the bolts.....but just unbolt the trans from the bell housing and slide it back.... dont unbolt the bell housing....gets kinda complicated when you do that pull the bell housing with the engine.....and it will be very easy!!!

shifty · 08-28-2005, 06:17 PM

Done deal. Wish I woulda read your post, Dan. I unbolted the bellhousing first and it was a pain in my ass to do alone. I would up almost yanking them both, had to wiggle the block free from the bellhousing. Couldn't get the tranny back onto the mounts to bolt it up, it was really fun separating the bellhousing from the tranny without dropping either. Getting the tranny down afterwards was a snap. Here's the end result. Need a LOT of cleaning.

08-27-2005, 11:01 PM	#1
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	engine pull suggestions? came home after work friday, spent about an hour tearing down all the wiring and draining all the fluids out of the L6. tonight, spent another 3 hours taking off the hood (tough to do alone without wrecking it), unbolting the tranny linkage, removing the starter, alternator and brackets, hoses, carb + intake, headers, unbolted it and i'm ready to pull... so, on to the question: i wanna yank the L6 and the 3spd tranny all at the same time. is this recommended while the front clip is still on the truck? is it even possible? i have a choice - remove the 4 bolts to the bellhousing and yank the engine right now, or remove the driveshaft and two tranny mount bolts and pull it all. suggestions? here's a picture of my progress Attached Images __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

08-27-2005, 11:14 PM	#2
TRUCKGUY Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Nortonville, Ky Posts: 407	i would put a yoke in the back of the trans so fluid wouldnt go everywheres....you probly done know that tho.... __________________ Dan. 55 F100 panel truck project 64 350/th400/10bolt short fleet 66 F100 302/C6/9" short fleet 67 IH 4x2 304/t984speed D44 373 locker lwb box 67 IH 4x4 304/t98 4speed/d44/d60 4.10'slwb box 67 IH Travelall 4x4 304/t98 4speed/12bolt/10bolt 81 2wd short fleet current build! 83 350/700r4 short fleet 88 k5 12" lift 3/4 ton swap mud toy 96 Dodge 3500 CUMMINS/5speed/4x2 97 Pontiac Trans Am WS6/LT1 383/6speed/T-tops

08-27-2005, 11:16 PM	#3
69 longhorn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: rock island,il,usa Posts: 5,382	the trans is pretty light, i would drop it from the bottom, then pick the eng /with bell straight up. you can bench that trans easy....at least i did when i was 20 ,or so. be carefull.....crazyL __________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn

08-27-2005, 11:30 PM	#4
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	Actually, I didn't know that about the fluids, Dan, so very good info. How do I pop the driveshaft out of the tailshaft of the tranny so I can pull it? __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

08-27-2005, 11:53 PM	#5
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	Do you have a TH350? I just pulled mine tranny and all(TH350). I put a piece of wood across under the drive shaft so it would not fall, drained what I could out of the tranny. As soon as the tranny poped loose I zip tied a plastic bag over the tail shaft to catch whatever came out the back and pulled the whole thing. It really helps to have an adjustable engine puller so you can angle the front up and get it to clear the front, and then level it back out to clear the tranny. Much easier to get the bell housing bolts out and keep the TC from puking all over. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

08-28-2005, 12:03 AM	#7
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	I have a one piece driveshaft. Hell, I don't even know how to drain the fluids. I'm kinda dumb in that regard I've yanked and replaced the engine before, but the tranny thing is all new to me. If anyone can add anything else that will help, I'm game. It's a 3spd synchronized Saginaw, one piece driveshaft. Thanks for the info guys, especially the long post you made V². __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

08-28-2005, 12:48 AM	#8
VetteVet Msgt USAF Ret Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan Posts: 8,709	Shifty I forgot you had the manual. That changes things as far as I'm concerned I would pull the tranny first and then the engine. A three speed isn't bad to get out and it makes the engine easier to clear. Just pull the DS and the shift and clutch linkage and the xmember mount bolts and unbolt it from the engine. Piece of cake. __________________ VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative.

08-28-2005, 01:15 AM	#9
pritch Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Hoytsville, Utah Posts: 3,365	I don't know about pulling it out, but I had one heck of a time putting my engine/trans back in as a unit (I6 w/ 3 speed). The top of the bell houseing was hitting on the firewall and the oilpan was hitting on the rad support. I finally got it, but it wasn't easy. __________________ '68 Panel Project Boogie Chillin' '68 C-10 Ol' Green

08-28-2005, 11:29 AM	#10
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,427	JUST YANK THE MOTOR BY ITSELF & THEN PULL THE TRANNY ONCE THE ENGINE IS OUT OF THE WAY. WHO TOLD YOU IT WOULD BE SIMPLER TO PULL THEM TOGETHER ANYWAY?? IT'S PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWORD & SIMPLE. YOURE MAKING A BIG DEAL OUT OF NOTHING. IF YOU CAN R&R A MOTOR.... A TRANNY WILL BE NO PROBLEM. JOHN __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST

08-28-2005, 11:49 AM	#12
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	personally, i see no point in trying to pull them both together. The length of the engine and tranny together is askin for trouble IMO...ESP if you are workin alone. Drop the tranny oud from under the truck, then jerk the engine out.

08-28-2005, 12:01 PM	#13
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	3hours to unbolt a hood?? i just hook the engine crane to the front of the hood blankets on the fenders unbolt it and roll out the way 15-20minutes tops for oneman job//it actually takes longer if you have help __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

08-28-2005, 12:07 PM	#14
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,427	I DON'T KNOW WHY I DIDN'T THINK TO USE AN ENGINE HOIST AS A THIRD & FORTH HAND TO PULL HOODS. I'LL TRY THAT. JOHN __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST

08-28-2005, 12:17 PM	#15
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I never thoguht of that either...but I always manage to pull mine (and install too) by mysaelf with no damage. 15 min tops on pulling it....20 installing NOT allowing to allighn it perfectly.

08-28-2005, 01:29 PM	#16
VetteVet Msgt USAF Ret Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan Posts: 8,709	I pulled my engine by nyself and all I did was unbolt the forward mounts on the hood hinges and loosen the rear ones. I stood the hood straight up and used pads to protect the paint. I unbolted the tranny and pulled just the engine. When I got it high enough I turned it sideways and lifted it up and out. I have an engine tilt and without that I couldn't have done it. I usually work by myself and if I had pulled the hood off with the hoist, which I had thought about doing,I wouldn't have been able to move it around. As soon as I got some help we pulled the hood off and stored it in the garage. I have a $4000.00 paint job on my truck so I'm going to be awful careful not to damage it. The worst thing about working by yourself is having to get up and down from under the vehicle to get tools. At my age it is getting harder. LOL __________________ VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative.

08-28-2005, 03:07 PM	#18
Purs Got Big Block? Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: West Texas Posts: 1,510	haven't read the all the posts but will throw my 2 cents in.... I will never again try to install (or pull) an engine/tranny without removing the front clip. It took so little time to remove and made things SO much easier. JMHO __________________ "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."



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08-28-2005, 03:17 PM	#19
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	There should be a drain plug on the 3 speed, which will get enough of the gear oil out. It's a lot cleaner without the lube spilling all over. I would not remove the engine/tranny together without removing either the front clip or the radiator support. And you just about have to have a leveler, a hoist that goes very high and a 10' ceiling to clear the rad. support. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

08-28-2005, 04:28 PM	#20
TRUCKGUY Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Nortonville, Ky Posts: 407	i agree with them you have 4 bolts holding the trans in and the shifting linkages easy to take out if you want i will grab some pictures of the bolts.....but just unbolt the trans from the bell housing and slide it back.... dont unbolt the bell housing....gets kinda complicated when you do that pull the bell housing with the engine.....and it will be very easy!!! __________________ Dan. 55 F100 panel truck project 64 350/th400/10bolt short fleet 66 F100 302/C6/9" short fleet 67 IH 4x2 304/t984speed D44 373 locker lwb box 67 IH 4x4 304/t98 4speed/d44/d60 4.10'slwb box 67 IH Travelall 4x4 304/t98 4speed/12bolt/10bolt 81 2wd short fleet current build! 83 350/700r4 short fleet 88 k5 12" lift 3/4 ton swap mud toy 96 Dodge 3500 CUMMINS/5speed/4x2 97 Pontiac Trans Am WS6/LT1 383/6speed/T-tops

08-28-2005, 06:17 PM	#21
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	Done deal Done deal. Wish I woulda read your post, Dan. I unbolted the bellhousing first and it was a pain in my ass to do alone. I would up almost yanking them both, had to wiggle the block free from the bellhousing. Couldn't get the tranny back onto the mounts to bolt it up, it was really fun separating the bellhousing from the tranny without dropping either. Getting the tranny down afterwards was a snap. Here's the end result. Need a LOT of cleaning. Attached Images __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

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