One Man Cab Removal - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

rmrtndl · 09-04-2005, 10:44 PM

Today I removed my cab. The engine hoist along with a couple of pieces of 2x4 allowed me to remove it by myself. No other special tooks required. I put it down on jack stands but plan on making a cab dolly soon.

The 2x4 is balanced on the top end of the hoist. It was fairly easy to get it balanced. As you can see cab is front heavy. I would have prefered a 4x4 but didn't have one handy. Becareful if you try it yourself.

Plenty of rust to remove, but the frame needs a lot of work first.

longhorn71 · 09-04-2005, 11:04 PM

Great idea ,looks like it worked good too!!!That cab has rust? not much compared to mine.Keep us posted on your progress

oldschooloutlaw · 09-04-2005, 11:07 PM

that cab looks great to start with , it still has rockers and front floor pans

Chevy_Man · 09-04-2005, 11:11 PM

Like the idea, i have been wondering how i could get my cab off by myself.. Now i have it.. thanks for the idea, keep us posted on the progress of the frame and cab.

thanks,
eric

rmrtndl · 09-04-2005, 11:13 PM

Oh yeah, there is some rust. It needs 2x inner and outer rockers, cab corners, cab supports, A-pillars, driver side floor, and a good bit of work on the floor. I am probably going to check out the available cabs at the local salvage before I proceed with it.

Compared to some, I may have it easy in the rust department, but having never done this type of work before, there are times when I don't know how to proceed. I guess my confidence will increase as I get more welding experience.

Batmat · 09-04-2005, 11:57 PM

I lifted my cab the same way, except I used two long tie down straps. I looped around the rear of the cab and the other around the front, then hooked them together on the engine hoist. I didn't know if the roof would support the cab weight, but your way worked out great. Good thinking!

panhandler62 · 09-05-2005, 06:10 AM

I think you'll probably loose the glass if you left it in. It eouldn't take much flex to crack the windshield.

rmrtndl · 09-05-2005, 08:52 AM

I considered running the 2x4's thru the doors. This would have required the 2x4's to be twice as long and I was concerned that they might flex and possibly crack. I thought it might be easier to balance the way I did it.

If anyone tries it the other way, let us know how it works out. Had I run the board thru the doors I would have definitely used a 4x4.

I agree with panhandler62 regarding the glass. I suspect it would crack due to even a small bit of flexing. My windshield already had a chip and small crack so I took it out.

Has anyone tried rolling the cab over on it's back? I think it might be easier to work on the cab supports this way but I am concerned about it being top(front) heavy.

TruckinDaddy · 09-05-2005, 09:47 AM

We balanced Striker's cabs on their back side while swapping them out. They balanced pretty easily. Don't know how long they could hav stayed without flexing, though.

*Randy70C-10* · 09-05-2005, 10:14 AM

Damn, that was a great idea!

(wish that I had thought of that two months ago)

Joe67 · 09-05-2005, 03:33 PM

I used an engine hoist to remove mine as well, with the windshield and backglass intact

I used a 2x6 from side to side inside the cab and used a 2" car tie down strap around that and used the boom outside the cab roof. That allowed me to roll it about freely.

I'm curious how you moved it around with the boom inside like that on the wood, it didn't want to slide off when you moved it around like that?

rmrtndl · 09-05-2005, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67c10step

I'm curious how you moved it around with the boom inside like that on the wood, it didn't want to slide off when you moved it around like that?

The cab is heavy enough that the boom just didn't want to slide. There was a minor indention in the 2x4 where it contacted the boom. That could have provided just enough friction to resist sliding.

cduster · 09-05-2005, 09:46 PM

I ran 2 2x4's through the doors when I removed my cab, and balanced them in the cherry picker the same way. The boards bowed some, but no cracking glass or anything like that. I also rolled the cab over on its back to work on it. No problems whatsoever.

Dan

Joe67 · 09-06-2005, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rick980

Now that is what I would do,they must put a hole in the wood eh? So your glass didnt crack, I didn't think it would thru the doors.. Those cabs seem really solid to me. I am gonna use Joe's method but or I am just gonna put a 3 inch tie down thru it no wood..since I have them..what do you think? The dam things are 30 feet long.

I used the wood as extra support, but also so the straps wouldn't distort the metal in the top of the door window frames nor the roof rail gutters on either side

Russell · 09-06-2005, 09:16 AM

I just used a couple straps hooked up to the skid steer, lol

I had mine sitting on it's back for weeks with no problems, and it is a more flimsy 73-80 cab

junkyarddog67 · 09-07-2005, 12:02 AM

I have removed several cabs with the bucket on my tractor and a 3 inch sling through the door openings. Never had any problem with flex and or cracked glass. They are pretty sturdy.

DennyB · 09-07-2005, 12:31 AM

I've done it too.
Use a 2x6 through the doors and a 2" straplooped around the ends to the boom over the top of the cab.
Used an extended boom on the picker and rolled the chassis out of the way.
The cab had no doors but did have front and rear glass.

**RPOZ11** · 09-07-2005, 01:11 AM

I just LOVE the GM Red/White combo in these years!!!
I am jealous!
Anyways, so many ways to think these out, that is why this site is the BEST around...
Having 2 trucks of my own, and limited space and tools, researching this site from time to time can really be a world of worth thru invention!
I look at all kinds of Metal contraptions we all make and post, but I must add this link to this Thread as it was already discussed on this site in the FAQ tab!

( But...rmrtndl 's Wood version keeps the costs down and keeps us within our budgets of our goals ! )

I believe that this gentleman's set-up is just about what any of us would desire! :
Link:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=113397

Joe67 · 09-07-2005, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RPOZ11

I believe that this gentleman's set-up is just about what any of us would desire! :
Link:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=113397

That is a good idea

Chris H · 09-07-2005, 09:13 AM

Here is how I did mine. Chain hoist on the cab with a 4x4 square tube throught the doors, cherry picker (engine hoist) attached to the core support.

**RPOZ11** · 09-07-2005, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67c10step

That is a good idea

I keep looking at this one and think that the pivot area needs a base to spin on or even a bearing to spin on
Would also consider getting that U-channel on the top of the Hoist arm more flush on the top of the arm so as not to rock fore or aft!

**RPOZ11** · 09-07-2005, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris H

Here is how I did mine. Chain hoist on the cab with a 4x4 square tube throught the doors, cherry picker (engine hoist) attached to the core support.

Chris H :
I want a Barn like that!!!!
I can only dream to have my backyard twice it's size to fit that of what you have!

09-04-2005, 10:44 PM	#1
rmrtndl Hey ya'll, Watch this! Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 117	One Man Cab Removal Today I removed my cab. The engine hoist along with a couple of pieces of 2x4 allowed me to remove it by myself. No other special tooks required. I put it down on jack stands but plan on making a cab dolly soon. The 2x4 is balanced on the top end of the hoist. It was fairly easy to get it balanced. As you can see cab is front heavy. I would have prefered a 4x4 but didn't have one handy. Becareful if you try it yourself. Plenty of rust to remove, but the frame needs a lot of work first. __________________ Rick M. 72 GMC SWB Fleetside 25 Chevrolet Superior Series Truck 95 Mazda Miata 06 Dodge Charger RT http://ram92.ods.org/blog.html

09-04-2005, 11:07 PM	#3
oldschooloutlaw Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Last big town in KY before the VA Line Posts: 66	that cab looks great to start with , it still has rockers and front floor pans __________________ Drive fast and Take Chances - In memory of Todd Rowe #725 Fire Chief 96 Chevy K1500 67 Chevelle 70 Chevy C10 - Old Red

09-04-2005, 11:13 PM	#5
rmrtndl Hey ya'll, Watch this! Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 117	Oh yeah, there is some rust. It needs 2x inner and outer rockers, cab corners, cab supports, A-pillars, driver side floor, and a good bit of work on the floor. I am probably going to check out the available cabs at the local salvage before I proceed with it. Compared to some, I may have it easy in the rust department, but having never done this type of work before, there are times when I don't know how to proceed. I guess my confidence will increase as I get more welding experience. __________________ Rick M. 72 GMC SWB Fleetside 25 Chevrolet Superior Series Truck 95 Mazda Miata 06 Dodge Charger RT http://ram92.ods.org/blog.html

09-05-2005, 06:10 AM	#7
panhandler62 Java Mechanic Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Martinsburg, WV Posts: 6,764	I think you'll probably loose the glass if you left it in. It eouldn't take much flex to crack the windshield. __________________ Keith 11 Lincoln MKT -- Momma's wagon 13 G37xS -- middle age crazy car 68 C20 Fleetside -- RIP Decorating the whole town up at a cost of $27 ....

09-05-2005, 08:52 AM	#8
rmrtndl Hey ya'll, Watch this! Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 117	I considered running the 2x4's thru the doors. This would have required the 2x4's to be twice as long and I was concerned that they might flex and possibly crack. I thought it might be easier to balance the way I did it. If anyone tries it the other way, let us know how it works out. Had I run the board thru the doors I would have definitely used a 4x4. I agree with panhandler62 regarding the glass. I suspect it would crack due to even a small bit of flexing. My windshield already had a chip and small crack so I took it out. Has anyone tried rolling the cab over on it's back? I think it might be easier to work on the cab supports this way but I am concerned about it being top(front) heavy. __________________ Rick M. 72 GMC SWB Fleetside 25 Chevrolet Superior Series Truck 95 Mazda Miata 06 Dodge Charger RT http://ram92.ods.org/blog.html

09-04-2005, 11:04 PM	#2
longhorn71 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: CANADA Posts: 1,681	Great idea ,looks like it worked good too!!!That cab has rust? not much compared to mine.Keep us posted on your progress

09-04-2005, 11:11 PM	#4
Chevy_Man Tightwad Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Louisiana Posts: 408	Like the idea, i have been wondering how i could get my cab off by myself.. Now i have it.. thanks for the idea, keep us posted on the progress of the frame and cab. thanks, eric

09-04-2005, 11:57 PM	#6
Batmat Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 28	I lifted my cab the same way, except I used two long tie down straps. I looped around the rear of the cab and the other around the front, then hooked them together on the engine hoist. I didn't know if the roof would support the cab weight, but your way worked out great. Good thinking!

09-05-2005, 09:47 AM	#9
TruckinDaddy What's that funky smell? Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 610	We balanced Striker's cabs on their back side while swapping them out. They balanced pretty easily. Don't know how long they could hav stayed without flexing, though. __________________ Mike S 68 C10 Long Step (Pretending to be a Long Fleetside) Grandpa's Farm Truck 3 on the tree, 307, No power brakes or steering Factory Options - HD rear spring and Ammeter/Oil Gauges My truck blog My Car Domain page

09-05-2005, 10:14 AM	#10
Randy70C-10 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A. Posts: 15,320	Damn, that was a great idea! (wish that I had thought of that two months ago)

09-05-2005, 03:33 PM	#11
Joe67 67 is sold Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Troy, Michigan Posts: 6,738	I used an engine hoist to remove mine as well, with the windshield and backglass intact I used a 2x6 from side to side inside the cab and used a 2" car tie down strap around that and used the boom outside the cab roof. That allowed me to roll it about freely. I'm curious how you moved it around with the boom inside like that on the wood, it didn't want to slide off when you moved it around like that? __________________ Joe - Formerly 67c10step ------------------------------- 1967 Chevy Stepside - ECE 4/6, fuelcell, 5lug - SOLD gr8lakes - My ebay auctions Click here to order forum apparel :: Click here to become a subscribing member

09-05-2005, 09:46 PM	#13
cduster Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: S.W. Michigan Posts: 403	I ran 2 2x4's through the doors when I removed my cab, and balanced them in the cherry picker the same way. The boards bowed some, but no cracking glass or anything like that. I also rolled the cab over on its back to work on it. No problems whatsoever. Dan __________________ Good Judgment comes from experience. Most experience comes from bad judgment.

09-06-2005, 09:16 AM	#15
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	I just used a couple straps hooked up to the skid steer, lol I had mine sitting on it's back for weeks with no problems, and it is a more flimsy 73-80 cab __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

09-07-2005, 12:02 AM	#16
junkyarddog67 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: arizona Posts: 54	cab removal I have removed several cabs with the bucket on my tractor and a 3 inch sling through the door openings. Never had any problem with flex and or cracked glass. They are pretty sturdy.

09-07-2005, 12:31 AM	#17
DennyB Led Sled! Discs R 4 ME! Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Toms River, NJ, USA (Transplanted Hoosier) Posts: 7,327	I've done it too. Use a 2x6 through the doors and a 2" straplooped around the ends to the boom over the top of the cab. Used an extended boom on the picker and rolled the chassis out of the way. The cab had no doors but did have front and rear glass. __________________ "Never ride faster than your Angel can fly" I.M.O.M,W,J&C Patriot Guard Rider



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09-07-2005, 01:11 AM	#18
RPOZ11 72 BB C30 Super LongHorn Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Chavez Ravine Posts: 1,606	I just LOVE the GM Red/White combo in these years!!! I am jealous! Anyways, so many ways to think these out, that is why this site is the BEST around... Having 2 trucks of my own, and limited space and tools, researching this site from time to time can really be a world of worth thru invention! I look at all kinds of Metal contraptions we all make and post, but I must add this link to this Thread as it was already discussed on this site in the FAQ tab! ( But...rmrtndl 's Wood version keeps the costs down and keeps us within our budgets of our goals ! ) I believe that this gentleman's set-up is just about what any of us would desire! : Link: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=113397 __________________ 72 BB C/30 Longhorn Super HO72 No-Spin, #'s matching, Tilt, Tach, AC, AM/FM HO72 build : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=714492 2017 SS

09-07-2005, 09:13 AM	#20
Chris H 72 C30 Trailer Queen Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: SE MN, USA Posts: 794	Here is how I did mine. Chain hoist on the cab with a 4x4 square tube throught the doors, cherry picker (engine hoist) attached to the core support. __________________ Chris H 72 C30 133" 72 C30 157" flat-dump 69 C10 short fleet 71 ElCamino 2000 K2500 crewcab shortbed (sold, sorry old friend) 2005 GMC 2500HD shortcrew Duramax 2006 K1500 RCSB and a couple other projects/parts

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