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#1 |
AttentionDeficitDisorder
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: COLORADO
Posts: 600
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Crossmember notch or Crossember drop?
Sorry if this has been asked before but I could not find a thread on it. Ive seen a few threads on 1.5" xmember drops and Ive notice some people such as captkaos will section and drop the entire top of the crossmember down an 1.5":
And some such as fastbagged68, and phantom dually, have only notched the area where the framerails will sit recessed. is there any preference as to which is a better way to go? what are the differences? the only difference I can see offhand is motor placement but that can be addressed fairly simply with diff motor mounts. I know that fastbagged and phantom both are going with custom built LCA's is this coincidental or necessary when doing it that way? Any info would be greatly appreciated. |
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#2 | |
Seņor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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#3 |
AttentionDeficitDisorder
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: COLORADO
Posts: 600
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Hi XXL, thanks for the reply. i understand that in the second method the motor would move up 1.5" with the xmember which may cause firewall clearance issues with the distributer. but it seems that with the first method you would have the problem of the oil pan hanging down 1.5" lower then the xmember after it was sectioned out?? the second method seems like alot less cutting and welding. also why would the second method not be a bolt in swap as well? thanks in advanced for the info.
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 256
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Well are you only doing the x member mod or are you going to Z the frame too? I would say the first one is the easiest
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66 C10 (under construction) 1.5" crossmember drop 2" Z'ed frame 8" rear notch Watts-link Bagged DJM 3" spindles |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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I am glad some one brought this back up cause I was going to ask cause I know it has been talked about before but I could not find it either. Crossmember number 2 looks easier but you will need to modify the engine and tranny mounts. Which doesn't have to be a big deal, but it is an extra step. But I will be intrested to see how this thread turns out.
Keith |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Tri Valley California
Posts: 792
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If you do it like #1 you can not do custom lower control arms like mine. #1 is easier then what I did. Your motor mounts will work out fine. Only issue is steering column hitting upper control arm. My crossmember is a little over kill for someone that doesn't want to lay body. With my suburban aired out my control arm and my crossmember are off the ground about an inch or maybe a little less.
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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So I am curious if you plan on using the stock A-arms which is an easier/better fix? I know that both may not fit into same catergory, but I am just trying to figure out the best route to go. I had planned to go the route of number 1, but then number also looked like a good idea.
Keith |
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#8 |
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 6,935
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I am biased, but my setup eliminates all the problems associated with the notch'd version except for the steering which is going to happen however you do it.
The custom lower control arms fastbagged68'd use was setup by the same company that did his crossmember. They aren't applicable for any other setup. ANY aftermarket control arms either dropped or not will work with my setup. XXL is running Air Rides Strong arms on his. I had stock ones on mine.
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
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#9 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Tri Valley California
Posts: 792
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#10 |
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 6,935
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My bad, I thought I read/remembered that Bill made them for you and you sent the crossmember to him also.
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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Hey Fastbagged,
do you have any pix of your LCA's? Also how did you manage to get 2 inches out of your cross member drop? I have heard if you go over 1.5 inches you run into more serious issues then just steering. Thanks Keith |
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#12 |
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 6,935
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He went 2" and used a rack & pinion setup, which will solve those issues.
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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OOOOH,
That answers that question, sounds like your way is best Chris unless I would be going with rack and pinion. Thanks I am going to start measuring things out and take it out to the plasma this weekend hopefully lol. Keith |
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#14 |
AttentionDeficitDisorder
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: COLORADO
Posts: 600
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i dont know why but i decided on 3.5" z, i was originally gonna do a 3" and save the 1-1.5" xmember drop in case i still wasnt happy with the height. then as i was setting it up i said "ahh what the hell, another .5" aint gonna hurt." seems like a 3.5" z maybe somewhat of a happy medium as ive seen alot of info that confirms that 3.5" total will do the trick (2"z and 1.5"xmemberdrop) at any rate. i will keep anyone posted on updates as it comes together. also, im doing a 78 2wd blazer frame i dont know if there are any differences then truck frames. there seemed to be a slight curve inwards to the frame rails where i cut and z'd on the area i had to fish plate that noone else mentioned. maybe i cut too far forward? i didnt have the body on the frame yet so eyeballed it kinda going buy the pics on loweredd.com's website.
Last edited by milehightoyz; 09-12-2005 at 10:42 PM. |
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#15 |
Active Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Ca
Posts: 211
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I did mine 2.5" and raised my steering the same. Works perfectly
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#16 |
AttentionDeficitDisorder
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: COLORADO
Posts: 600
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any info or pics on what you did to raise your steering? thank john
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#17 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,977
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Quote:
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#18 |
Active Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Ca
Posts: 211
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well, you drill new holes 2.5" higher than the origninal ones, then notch the frame were the idler arm and steering arm need clearance to move.
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#19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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Hey Jared any problems you ran into with it? Has it been road tested? And Also is 2.5 inches enough to tuck the LCA's up enough to lay frame?
Thanks Keith |
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#20 |
Active Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Ca
Posts: 211
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no problems what so ever. Ya I drove it for over a year after I got it done. I just recently tore it apart and lowered the body mounts down.
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#21 |
Active Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Ca
Posts: 211
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http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...d.php?t=165800 thats the best i can do for pics right now
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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Thanks for the info and pix Jared!
I just wanted to make sure it held up well because I plan on making my truck a daily driver. Good to hear you haven't had any problems! My 3" drop spindles are suppose to be arriving some time this evening so I will mock everything up with the drop spindles and find out exactly how much of that cross member I need to cut away. It looks like you just made the frame rail taller where the box is, do you think if I "z" the frame where the box is would it be strong enough? Thanks Keith |
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#23 |
Active Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Ca
Posts: 211
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Actually, thats basically what I did. It's hard to explain, but I sliced the side of the frame and kept the bottom part, rasied the side section up, welded it back together and then welded the 2 inch peice on top to make it look like a factory bend. Make sense? Ill try and get some pics of the inside of the frame and it will explain everything! Also, yes, my a arms do sit up above the frame line by about 1/4 to 1/2" or so? I cant remember, but now my body is lower than my frame line so I can tell you for sure. I feel like I never make sense on these forums... Sorry
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#24 |
Active Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Ca
Posts: 211
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Also, I have 3" djm spindles as well, and my tire size is 245/35/20. It barely lays on a 265/30/22 too...
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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Thanks again Jared,
Makes sense! My DJM spindles just came through the door. Now I have to wait for the rest of the brake stuff to get here. I plan to run a 245/35/20 when I can afford it but for now I will probably just roll on 15's PIx would be awesome if you get a chance. Keith |
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