Does Anyone Have Pics of a Frame with a C-Notch - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

JHickson6 · 08-24-2002, 01:49 PM

I want to get an idea on what I have to do to lay the frame on my truck. But more specifically how big the C-Notch has to be and what it looks like welded on the frame. Oh yah, measurements would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks Again

Jared

justin · 08-24-2002, 02:29 PM

I saw an add in a magazine that sold bolt in c-notch kits for these trucks. The only problem is that I don't remember which mag. I will try to hunt it down for you.

Slammed67 · 08-24-2002, 03:00 PM

Here is the one that I think Justin is talking about. It's made by Classis Performance Products. Nice product although I had to redrill a few holes that didn't line up like they were supposed to. Also, if you use the Early Classic modified track bar kit, you will have an interference problem as shown circled in red in the second picture.

CPP C-Notch

nosto · 08-24-2002, 03:47 PM

Back when I was just beginning with the C-10, I ordered the full AirLift kit (front and rear). Very pricy!! If I knew then what I know now...I probabily would have done what a lot of board members have done - buy the parts and make your own.

Anyhow here's what the cut line looked like before I hacked the frame:

nosto · 08-24-2002, 03:50 PM

And here's the C-notch piece installed.

BTW: The airbag sits 'outboard' of the trailing arm, according to AirLift, to get more drop. I don't know about that, but it sure does make it hard to put wide tires on the rear!!

nosto · 08-24-2002, 03:53 PM

Oops! This is the pic that shows the bag mount....

The Blue Pig · 08-24-2002, 03:56 PM

Me and my buddy put a 10' step notch in his frame of his 90 half-ton. The mod would be about the same. He wanted 10 inches so he could lay frame with 20's, but if you are running regular diameter wheels, you shoudl be able to do with 4-7 inches I would guess. We also went ahead and made a 4 link suspension and threw on an MIC air bag suspension, made all the mounts and brackets ourselves though. There is no way you will be able to lay frame with just a "C" notch, you will need to step notch the frame (I think this also may be referred to as "super C" notching). A C notch cuts into the frame (supposedly) no more than half the frames hieght to maintain structural integrity, while giving a clearance of 2-3 inches above the axle housings of your rear end at ride height, while a step notch actually is a reconstruction (or bolt in if you dont like to fabricate) of that whole section of your frame (normally boxed). We just drew up a template of the side view of the notch (a 10 inch notch is huge) and busted out the old plasma cutter, blasted them out of a piece of flat stock, welded them to the frame (after many cross braces were welded into place from frame rail to frame rail to keep it from losing any measurements) then boxed them in from the top and bottom. Sure, its a lot of cutting, grinding, sticking, welding, and metal finish to make it look descent, but, then you can say you make the damn thing yourself instead of "bolting one on".

justin · 08-24-2002, 04:08 PM

yea Slammed67, I have the same problem with my adjustable pan hard bar. We fabricated my c notch, I was trying to find a pic of it but I'm not having any luck.

Church · 08-24-2002, 04:49 PM

here's the one I did, shown with ECE air bags. No need to buy a kit, just take a piece of pipe the width of the frame and cut it in half. box your frame then take a plasma cutter and cut out the "c" notch, then weld pipe in. It really is a piece of cake if you have the right tools.

Church · 08-24-2002, 05:06 PM

this one shows air bag, sorry

Slammed67 · 08-24-2002, 07:55 PM

nosto: I also looked at Air Lift and Air Ride Tech's kits, but figured I could do the same thing for a lot less money. I don't see how it can go lower mounting the bags outboard, because the bottom of the bracket looks like it is at the same height as the bottom of the frame.

Justin: to fix the problem, I hacked up the ECE bracket and welded the "clevis" part to the inside of the trailing arm.

JHickson6 · 08-25-2002, 04:48 PM

Thanks guys for all your help, you never disappoint me!!

Jared

justin · 08-25-2002, 06:46 PM

hey slammed67
Do you have a pic of what you did? I am not quite following you. What is the "clevis". I know what the clitoris is but not the clevis. Thanks

Slammed67 · 08-25-2002, 06:55 PM

Sorry, I guess "clevis" was a poor choice of works. It's the thing that the end of rod slides into

(Where the track bar mounts to the bracket).

Here's a pic:

justin · 08-25-2002, 07:02 PM

So you basically lowered where the bar attaches to the bracket?
In other words you stuck the rod in the lower hole

Slammed67 · 08-25-2002, 07:08 PM

well, actually I cut that part of the bracket off and welded it to the inside of the trailng arm.

justin · 08-25-2002, 07:20 PM

O!!
I got you now. I am going to have to try that! How does that truck ride with the bags?
I cant wait to fire mine up!!!

Kid · 08-25-2002, 10:41 PM

Question for SLAMMED 67, what is the part # of the bags in your picture? Are they part of the Early Classic kit?

Slammed67 · 08-25-2002, 11:34 PM

Kid,

the rear bags are 2500lb Firestones, the fronts are 2600lb. I didn't get them from ECE...... I'm not sure what they use in their kits.

By the way, where abouts are you in Kansas?

SLAM

JHickson6 · 08-26-2002, 12:52 AM

Hey Slammed67, now that you've got the wheels on the truck, and most of the weight when the bags are empty how much clearance is their on the side of the frame? Say at about where the cab is. Do your rockers hit the ground, does the frame hit the ground?

Thanks Again

Jared

Church · 08-26-2002, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Kid
Question for SLAMMED 67, what is the part # of the bags in your picture? Are they part of the Early Classic kit?

Hey Kid, Mine are from ECE and they are firestone bags.
I have a pic in an earlier post.

Slammed67 · 08-26-2002, 01:47 PM

JHickson6: No, neither the frame nor the rockers hit the ground. However, the front crossmember is about 1" off the ground. I can get some frame-to-ground measurements if you are interested.

JHickson6 · 08-26-2002, 02:04 PM

That would be greatly appreciated as I like the ride height of your truck, and I might just go with the same setup as you instead of laying the frame.

Thanks

Jared Hickson

NSANE68!!! · 08-26-2002, 03:00 PM

These trucks will never lay frame with a tire taller than 27", UNLESS you notch the front crossmember and a huge notch in back probably 8" or more.
This is a pic of my old 72 GMC front crossmember sits about like slammed 67's, the rear I stepped 6". The front frame about 1.5" and the rear about 1.75"

NSANE68!!! · 08-26-2002, 03:02 PM

Here is a pic of the finished product. But be warned this is alot of work all hand FABBED, not for the average person.

08-24-2002, 01:49 PM	#1
JHickson6 I Love This Stuff! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 739	Does Anyone Have Pics of a Frame with a C-Notch I want to get an idea on what I have to do to lay the frame on my truck. But more specifically how big the C-Notch has to be and what it looks like welded on the frame. Oh yah, measurements would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Again Jared __________________ My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!!

08-24-2002, 02:29 PM	#2
justin PROJECT LO-LYF Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: MO. Posts: 283	I saw an add in a magazine that sold bolt in c-notch kits for these trucks. The only problem is that I don't remember which mag. I will try to hunt it down for you. __________________ FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE "O-SH*T, THAT TRUCK IS LOW" CLUB PROJECT: LO-LYF Bagged 68 Shorty home.att.net/~justin.lewis

08-24-2002, 03:00 PM	#3
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Here is the one that I think Justin is talking about. It's made by Classis Performance Products. Nice product although I had to redrill a few holes that didn't line up like they were supposed to. Also, if you use the Early Classic modified track bar kit, you will have an interference problem as shown circled in red in the second picture. CPP C-Notch __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

08-24-2002, 03:47 PM	#4
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	Back when I was just beginning with the C-10, I ordered the full AirLift kit (front and rear). Very pricy!! If I knew then what I know now...I probabily would have done what a lot of board members have done - buy the parts and make your own. Anyhow here's what the cut line looked like before I hacked the frame: Attached Images __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!

08-24-2002, 03:50 PM	#5
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	And here's the C-notch piece installed. BTW: The airbag sits 'outboard' of the trailing arm, according to AirLift, to get more drop. I don't know about that, but it sure does make it hard to put wide tires on the rear!! Attached Images __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!

08-24-2002, 03:53 PM	#6
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	Oops! This is the pic that shows the bag mount.... Attached Images __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!

08-24-2002, 03:56 PM	#7
The Blue Pig Thread Wizard Since 2002 Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Fairbanks, AK Posts: 102	Me and my buddy put a 10' step notch in his frame of his 90 half-ton. The mod would be about the same. He wanted 10 inches so he could lay frame with 20's, but if you are running regular diameter wheels, you shoudl be able to do with 4-7 inches I would guess. We also went ahead and made a 4 link suspension and threw on an MIC air bag suspension, made all the mounts and brackets ourselves though. There is no way you will be able to lay frame with just a "C" notch, you will need to step notch the frame (I think this also may be referred to as "super C" notching). A C notch cuts into the frame (supposedly) no more than half the frames hieght to maintain structural integrity, while giving a clearance of 2-3 inches above the axle housings of your rear end at ride height, while a step notch actually is a reconstruction (or bolt in if you dont like to fabricate) of that whole section of your frame (normally boxed). We just drew up a template of the side view of the notch (a 10 inch notch is huge) and busted out the old plasma cutter, blasted them out of a piece of flat stock, welded them to the frame (after many cross braces were welded into place from frame rail to frame rail to keep it from losing any measurements) then boxed them in from the top and bottom. Sure, its a lot of cutting, grinding, sticking, welding, and metal finish to make it look descent, but, then you can say you make the damn thing yourself instead of "bolting one on". __________________ --70 C-10 Longbed --71 C-10 Longbed --72 K-20 Longbed --74 C-10 Shortbed --86 Toyota Tercel (His Driver) --05 Chevy Trailblazer (Her Driver)

08-24-2002, 04:08 PM	#8
justin PROJECT LO-LYF Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: MO. Posts: 283	yea Slammed67, I have the same problem with my adjustable pan hard bar. We fabricated my c notch, I was trying to find a pic of it but I'm not having any luck. __________________ FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE "O-SH*T, THAT TRUCK IS LOW" CLUB PROJECT: LO-LYF Bagged 68 Shorty home.att.net/~justin.lewis

08-24-2002, 04:49 PM	#9
Church Carolina Classic Trucks Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: The South Posts: 792	here's the one I did, shown with ECE air bags. No need to buy a kit, just take a piece of pipe the width of the frame and cut it in half. box your frame then take a plasma cutter and cut out the "c" notch, then weld pipe in. It really is a piece of cake if you have the right tools. Attached Images __________________ Last edited by Church; 08-24-2002 at 05:12 PM.

08-24-2002, 05:06 PM	#10
Church Carolina Classic Trucks Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: The South Posts: 792	this one shows air bag, sorry Attached Images __________________

08-24-2002, 07:55 PM	#11
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	nosto: I also looked at Air Lift and Air Ride Tech's kits, but figured I could do the same thing for a lot less money. I don't see how it can go lower mounting the bags outboard, because the bottom of the bracket looks like it is at the same height as the bottom of the frame. Justin: to fix the problem, I hacked up the ECE bracket and welded the "clevis" part to the inside of the trailing arm. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

08-25-2002, 04:48 PM	#12
JHickson6 I Love This Stuff! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 739	Thanks guys for all your help, you never disappoint me!! Jared __________________ My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!!

08-25-2002, 06:46 PM	#13
justin PROJECT LO-LYF Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: MO. Posts: 283	hey slammed67 Do you have a pic of what you did? I am not quite following you. What is the "clevis". I know what the clitoris is but not the clevis. Thanks __________________ FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE "O-SH*T, THAT TRUCK IS LOW" CLUB PROJECT: LO-LYF Bagged 68 Shorty home.att.net/~justin.lewis

08-25-2002, 06:55 PM	#14
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Sorry, I guess "clevis" was a poor choice of works. It's the thing that the end of rod slides into (Where the track bar mounts to the bracket). Here's a pic: __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra Last edited by Slammed67; 08-25-2002 at 06:58 PM.

08-25-2002, 07:02 PM	#15
justin PROJECT LO-LYF Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: MO. Posts: 283	So you basically lowered where the bar attaches to the bracket? In other words you stuck the rod in the lower hole __________________ FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE "O-SH*T, THAT TRUCK IS LOW" CLUB PROJECT: LO-LYF Bagged 68 Shorty home.att.net/~justin.lewis



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08-25-2002, 07:08 PM	#16
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	well, actually I cut that part of the bracket off and welded it to the inside of the trailng arm. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

08-25-2002, 07:20 PM	#17
justin PROJECT LO-LYF Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: MO. Posts: 283	O!! I got you now. I am going to have to try that! How does that truck ride with the bags? I cant wait to fire mine up!!! __________________ FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE "O-SH*T, THAT TRUCK IS LOW" CLUB PROJECT: LO-LYF Bagged 68 Shorty home.att.net/~justin.lewis

08-25-2002, 10:41 PM	#18
Kid Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Kansas Posts: 702	Question for SLAMMED 67, what is the part # of the bags in your picture? Are they part of the Early Classic kit? __________________ The kid Build threads: 51 Jimmy http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=154951 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=219902 http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...uck/index.html 68 C10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=50348

08-25-2002, 11:34 PM	#19
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Kid, the rear bags are 2500lb Firestones, the fronts are 2600lb. I didn't get them from ECE...... I'm not sure what they use in their kits. By the way, where abouts are you in Kansas? SLAM __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

08-26-2002, 12:52 AM	#20
JHickson6 I Love This Stuff! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 739	Hey Slammed67, now that you've got the wheels on the truck, and most of the weight when the bags are empty how much clearance is their on the side of the frame? Say at about where the cab is. Do your rockers hit the ground, does the frame hit the ground? Thanks Again Jared __________________ My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!!

08-26-2002, 01:47 PM	#22
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	JHickson6: No, neither the frame nor the rockers hit the ground. However, the front crossmember is about 1" off the ground. I can get some frame-to-ground measurements if you are interested. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

08-26-2002, 02:04 PM	#23
JHickson6 I Love This Stuff! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 739	That would be greatly appreciated as I like the ride height of your truck, and I might just go with the same setup as you instead of laying the frame. Thanks Jared Hickson __________________ My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!!

08-26-2002, 03:00 PM	#24
NSANE68!!! SLICER AND DICIER Join Date: May 2001 Location: Quuen Creek Posts: 1,383	These trucks will never lay frame with a tire taller than 27", UNLESS you notch the front crossmember and a huge notch in back probably 8" or more. This is a pic of my old 72 GMC front crossmember sits about like slammed 67's, the rear I stepped 6". The front frame about 1.5" and the rear about 1.75" Attached Images __________________ 01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's 68 chevy money pit 51 chevy belair 95 Honda 900RR 05 GMC Siearra (company truck)

08-26-2002, 03:02 PM	#25
NSANE68!!! SLICER AND DICIER Join Date: May 2001 Location: Quuen Creek Posts: 1,383	Here is a pic of the finished product. But be warned this is alot of work all hand FABBED, not for the average person. Attached Images __________________ 01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's 68 chevy money pit 51 chevy belair 95 Honda 900RR 05 GMC Siearra (company truck)

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