POR-15 Paint Feedback

[1971LT1SWBPOSI373]

I've used POR-15 Paint on a few projects around the house, and painted my differential with it, both with good results. I've been reading a lot of negative feedback about the product, and I'm wondering if I should use something else instead (to paint the bottom side of my truck bed), after all... it is very expensive and cumbersome to work with. Let me know what kind of results you have had using the product. TJ

[jamie72]

i use it alot, had one prolbem that was with the tie coat primer,i wanted to paint over the por-15
so i applied the tie coat,then i used regular primer,bad mistake,if you want to paint it,just scuff it up, then primer or use tie coat,then paint.
it is exspensive but it also covers really well.
good luck

[70 Jimmy]

It's all in the prep. Most complaints I've heard are when the metal is too smooth or greasy. Also, it doesn't do well with UV light or brake fluid or gasoline.

[1971LT1SWBPOSI373]

I've used it on a few really rusty applications around the shop, just to try it out. It seems to do pretty well, but the black POR-15 fades quickly with sunlight. I haven't tried any on my truck yet, but I heard a few horror stories so I'm a little nervous..... TJ

[Bagged72]

I did my entire frame, including trailing arms, control arms, body mounts, and rear end, with por-15. It turned out really well, and is very hard to get to chip, or scratch. It was $149 for a gallon of paint, and all of the prep materials, but it spreads great. I did everything mentioned above, and still have 1.5 quarts left over, after doing everything with two coats. I would highly recommend it.

[mikep]

I'll be spraying it on the bed floor of my truck tomorrow. Spent the better part of 4 hours today with naval jelly and sandpaper getting it ready. I'll be putting a rubber mat down over it but I wanted a tough coat for the bed. I'll let you know how it goes.

[Fred T]

Mikep - If you're spraying the POR-15 I hope you have the NIOSH breathing apparatus. The fumes go through a regular filter and will destroy your lungs.

The POR-15 is a darn good product, and they do stand behind it. Even when I've put the stuff on wrong, when I talk to the distributor, he gives me whatever it takes to fix the problem. If you follow the instructions, you can't go wrong.

If you want to paint over the POR-15, there are 3 options. First is to sand, second is the tie-coat primer (I havent tried), third is to spray enamel over the POR-15 when tacky, which works great. Only problem that I have had is when using Krylon primer, it is incompatible with the POR product and cracks. But you don't need a primer, so it's no big deal. I have used the POR topcoats, they work great and are UV resistant, but to thick to spray in most guns.

[mikep]

As of my last invoice Ive sprayed 72 gallons of the stuff and a lot of other REALLY nasty stuff that makes POR15 look like distilled water. I'm pretty well versed in spray gun ettiquette but thanks. The POR 15 is all right for paint although it takes such a long time to dry its like... watching paint dry. If I have a problem with it. which I have quite a few times in the past. I usually call over to the Poulsbo Wa NAPA store and talk to the owner who also happpens to own the POR 15 company. Nice guy. He's got a huge garage full of the stuff.

To be honest I'm not a huge fan of the regular POR 15. The black POR 15 Chassis coat is a much better paint although it takes much longer to cure if its not baked. I bake everyting that will fit in the oven. Unfortunately the bed of my truck will not.

[1971LT1SWBPOSI373]

This might be a really silly question, but what are you guys doing for gun clean-up? Is there any quick way to clean a gun. The last time I shot POR-15 on my differential it took me just about as long to clean up the gun afterwards. Are you using some sort of wash tank or what..... cause I know once POR-15 dries.... it doesn't come off (at least from your hands). TJ

[johnnyp]

I used POR-15 on my frame and I'm happy with it so far but I think in the future I'm going to go with ZeroRust.

Several reasons for switching - ZeroRust is non toxic, it can be purchase in rattle cans as well as bulk, it comes in several colors, it doesn't need top-coating, and the guys in the forum on the Stovebolt site really give it rave reviews.

[mikep]

I dont know why everyone complains about the stuff being difficult to cleanup. Cheap Lacquer thinner works just fine to clean the gun and any overspray.

[Protrucks]

I am about to do the underside of my SWB bed and was wondering what to do it in. Has anyone tryed the spary on bed liners on the underside of the bed? If so how do you like it?

[WK Irish]

TJ:
As Zero Rust has been introduced/suggested, let me point out some advantages for your consideration:
1.) A quart of black costs $17 & likely would be more than enough to do what I think you said you need. If you'd like a gallon, it's only $51, or if you want aerosols, they are $7 for a 12 ozs rattle can.
2.) Very easy to work with - simply prep the metal the way you prefer to (No requirement to sand/media blast) and, assuming the steel is contaminant free (no grease, oil or ...) simply apply ZR either by spray rig, brush or roller. Clean up is a breeze - just handle as you would any VOC based paint product.
3.) Easily repairable IF you ding up your work down the road. All you have to do is wire brush and/or wire wheel the metal to your satisfaction, grab a rattle can (or bulk - which has virtually an unlimited shelf life) and cover the affected area plus a little overlap so that the new paint blends with the old. ZR adheres well to both.
4.) No Isocyanates or lead to worry about. No fresh air supplied paint suit is necessary to spray ZR to protect yourself from this nasty family of chemicals.
5.) 10 colors to choose from and topcoatable at your option.
6.) 2000+ hour salt spray cabinet test results - indicative of how effective ZR is in adhering and preventing rust development.
The Stovebolt site has been mentioned, so I'll throw out one other site that you can also use to check out whether what I'm telling you is the truth: Len Stuart's www.autobodystore.com. Len's forum is an excellent source of information for both the novice and professional DIYer alike.
HTH
WK Irish

[70 Jimmy]

The only negative thing I can think about zero rust is that the black attracts dirt like a magnet! It's difficult to clean too. I painted my frame rails and did some sanding on my firewall and man, it looks like they were done 5 years ago! If you don't mind the semi gloss/gloss look, the clear overcoat takes care of that problem.

[WK Irish]

70jimmy:
Yours are the first comments I've ever heard about ZR actually attracting dirt. Don't quite know how or why this would necessarily be the case.
As to the level of glossiness and/or resurrecting sanded or sun faded ZR, you're right on, our Crystal Coat, a clear acrylic lacquer, will do both and prevent further UV deterioration. If you don't want very much glossiness, (over that produced by ZR alone) use very little Crystal Coat, as it is directly enhanced with the more applications (heavy millage - dft).
BTW, your earlier comments about using paints around automotive fluids, like brake fluid, gasoline or even racing fuels, ZR holds up against these as well.
HTH
WK Irish

[Tink]

I used Por15 on the frame and skid plates of my 89 S10. They look great and have held up rather well. I have also used it on some brackets for the 69. I'll probably keep using it for areas that are not in direct sunlight.

[Fred T]

Originally posted by Protrucks
I am about to do the underside of my SWB bed and was wondering what to do it in. Has anyone tryed the spary on bed liners on the underside of the bed? If so how do you like it?

I haven't tried it myself, but when I was looking for a pickup this summer I inspected one that had used the rhino-liner stuff. He did his body prep the right way, welded in patch panels and used a minimal amount of putty to fill in the pits. Primed and painted, and on the underside of the body had the rhino stuff sprayed on. That was about ten years ago, and I was able to actually tell him he had a rust-free truck, a rarity around here with all the salt we see in the winter.

If you are going this route and don't want to use the POR-15 or zero-rust, I would recommend a high quality primer followed by a flat enamel paint. Then apply the liner stuff.

[Protrucks]

Thanks Fred T I have decided to go with the sprayon bedliner under the bed, cab floor, firewall and inner wheel wells. The stuff dose not need to have the bumpy texture to it and can be sprayed on flat. The shop showed me a Jeep that they did the hole body with the stuff and even after a few good blows in the woods it has dents but no chips. They told me $300 for the under side of the bed and would go by SQ footage on the rest of the trucks underside. I am going to use Coreless primer on the parts before sending it to the liner place. The finished product doesn't have a even finish to it , some areas have a simi flat look and other area might have a somewhat gloss look. So I guss I will give it a try.

[Ed ke6bnl]

I do like the idea of rust protection under the bed liner anything from Zero Rust (my choice) to por 15. There is a new liner material that I believe is colled Vortex that you can recoat over and it will adhere you can even recoat with various color to get a patteren the equipment is portable and can be done at you residence. read about it in one the truck magazines. Good luck Ed ke6bnl