My fuel line is jacked - have pics to prove it

[67chevytrk]

My fuel line comes out of the fuel pump and I had to bend it for clearence for my serpentine belt system, I damn near flattened the steel line to wrap around the bracket for the belt system, I mean it's flat. It then comes up to a filter which has electrical tape on the clamps because that is where the alternator sat previously.

Pics 1 and 2 show the drastic bends (did by hand like an idiot) coming out of the fuel pump and wrapping around the bracket.

The third pic is coming up around the bracket top side.

Fourth pic is where it distributes fuel from the filter to the carb.

Any ideas on what I should do? It sounds great when you rack the throttle at idle but when you are going down the highway and punch it, well it almost falls on it's face. I notice a big difference from previous times - before I bent the line all to crap.

Thank you again for your input and how to solve this stupid mistake.....

[ratrod67]

Bend a new line?

[LUV2XCLR8]

^ Yeppers, that won't work well on any truck

And use a socket, if you don't have a tubing bender,
to make your bends around, it cuts down on pinches

[71Dragtruck]

And throw that glass filter in the garbage.

[Billla]

It's not a stupid mistake, it's just the fun of bending tubing...it takes a while to get the knack.

I'd see a couple of options:

- Hoof it down to NAPA and get a length of line and a bender (if you don't have one) and spend the rest of your natural life trying to get the right bends with the right radii in right place.

- Get some -8 or -10 Aeroquip and make a nice flex line. Pretty quick and painless, although you may need to find a few places to attach a loop for support.

For the fuel line on my '72, I cut it fairly far back along the frame rail and put on an Aeroquip AN 10 tube fitting into an Aeromotive fuel filter, then a soft line into the Holley mechanical fuel pump. I put firesleeve on the line from the filter to the pump, although that's big-time overkill.

I've recieved a lot of flack on other boards for my "endorsement" of Aeroquip stuff, but honestly every time I've hit a tubing issue I've found the solution in their catalog.

[Americanrider]

Heres' a old trick: Find a old piece of house electrical wire (soft soild copper) big enough to fit inside the line before you bend and small enough to slide in & out of the line. Insert the wire and then make your bends, it will prevent the line from collapsing on itself.

[Tx Firefighter]

Don't use that copper line. It will work harden under the vibration and crack. There's a reason they use steel originally.

Also, put something on the edge of that framerail to keep it from cutting into your lower radiator hose. A section of fuel hose slit longways will slip onto the edge of the frame nicely.

[kndall]

I think he was meaning to put a piece of copper electrical line inside of the steel to keep it from collapsing. not actually using copper for a fuel line.

[Bowtie67]

Originally Posted by Billla

Get some -8 or -10 Aeroquip and make a nice flex line. Pretty quick and painless, although you may need to find a few places to attach a loop for support.

Buy the time you spend all the money for these you could have the tubing bender for later projects link brake line, tranny lines etc. Using a tubing bender doesnt take all that much to use and there really not all that expensive.

[Fred T]

The reason Tex mentioned not using copper tubing is because that's what appears in the picture. You can buy the 3/8" steel tube at a parts store. For bending I have a set of the spring style tubing benders, they can be used for any tubing up to 5/8". Another old trick is to fill the tube with very fine sand, but then you have to clean it out.

[76bonanza]

Why not just you fuel hose from pump to carb? Looks like you are already using it half way any way.

[Tx Firefighter]

I was refering to the picture. It appears that his current line is copper.

76bonanza, it is considered safer to run as much hard line as possible. Idealy, the only place for fuel hose is where movement must occur, such as between cab and frame or frame and engine. The only other place the factory uses fuel line is as a junction between two places where a solid connection is impractical, such as a sending unit and fuel rail on the frame.

Steel line won't harden up, crack, or split open, compared to rubber.

[76bonanza]

Well if he is already running the upper half in rubber does not seem any more unsafe to run the other one foot in rubber.

[67chevemall]

the FI rubber hose is alot stronger.

[Billla]

I don't disagree - I have a tubing bender as well. But I think you'd agree that it's a pain if there are a lot of bends, and I prefer to use Aeroquip where it's appropriate.

[67chevytrk]

Originally Posted by 76bonanza

Well if he is already running the upper half in rubber does not seem any more unsafe to run the other one foot in rubber.

That's what I am trying to get rid of or minimize next to nothing, looks like I will be getting a line and bender, isn't the end of the line that goes to the fuel pump flared? I don't remember, guess I will get a flaring tool as well.

[krue]

Use a piece of wire or coat hanger and mock it up. Get the length and diameter of tubing you will need and go buy steel brake line at your local parts store. Comes in precut lengths with the ends flared and fittings also.

[Bowtie67]

The other tools that belongs in your tool box is a flairing tool and a tubing cutter, niether of these are all that expensive, chances that you will find the exact length of tube to fit will be nill. I have had my tubing bender and flairing tools for about 15+ years and I have used them many a time over & over again. Even for my sons truck we picked up this past fall, I had to splice a line for the brakes & patch a trans line. I as well had to make all of my front brake lines on my truck and my trans lines as well. As krue mentioned use a coat hanger to mockup your lines you need.

[Tx Firefighter]

You can buy a 4 foot length of 3/8 line at any parts store. AutoZone and Oreilley keep them on the ends of their shelf rows, hanging up.

It will come preflared with ends already on it. Just start working from one end with your bending and cut any excess off the other end and attach to the carb with a short section of hose and clamps.

EDITED by Tx Bonehead, fuel lines should be 3/8, trans cooler lines are 5/16

[Zoerb]

If you haven't purchased the bender and flare tool already, check your local hardware store for them. Lowes has them for 4 or 5 bucks in their plumbing section.

Krue has the right Idea. if you make a mock up of the fuel line with some copper wire, it is easier to bend it and it functions better than using all rubber. The rubber tends to rub and wear easily.

good luck!