01-13-2006, 02:31 AM | #1 |
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Location: calgary,Alberta,Canada
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Interior help...
I am about to install my headliner. The truck has been repainted and I am wondering what the best adhesive is for the task. Just plain ol' contact cement???
I was also interested to know what was the best product for sound proofing? I see dynamat is common can anyone suggest a better product? Curt
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1972 CHEYENNE SUPER SWB BLACK. 402 BB, TH400, AIR, TILT, TACH, BUCKETS, CRUISE, AM/FM, 8 TRACK. My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post7120181 |
01-13-2006, 03:27 AM | #2 |
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Re: Interior help...
Brown Bread is another product for sound deadening which has come highly recommended in the past.
For any fabric adhesion as with a headliner, I would use a heavy duty upholstery stray-on glue. Comes in a ratlle can (without the rattle). Use something that is industrial or professional grade.
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01-13-2006, 11:54 AM | #3 |
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Re: Interior help...
3m Super 77
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1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD |
01-13-2006, 12:48 PM | #4 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Re: Interior help...
Mario, I tried that stuff and the headliner fell the next day.
What was your menthod of doing it? |
01-13-2006, 01:25 PM | #5 |
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Re: Interior help...
I sprayed each side let them tack off for 30-45 seconds and stick it. I never used it to hold a headliner up but the guy at the local upholstery(sp) shop said it really good stuff. I used it to cover the the corner filler plates behind the seat where my speakers are in speaker box material and there is no getting it off now.
How cold was it when you sprayed it ? Also was the roof wax free ?
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1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD |
01-13-2006, 01:42 PM | #6 |
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Re: Interior help...
I personally use about a tube and a half of pure silicone in a caulk gun. It cures in 24 hours and is rated from -65° to 400°. It goes on clean and is easy to apply.:
1. Clean the ceiling with alcohol or something similar to remove grease or wax. 2. Lay the headliner on the seat ready to lift up into place. 3. Apply the caulk 2-3" from the edge around the perimeter. Apply an X from corner to corner inside the rectangle you made. Apply long beads lengthwise every 2-3". Press and twist into place. I like all the beads to be nice and fat so that the excess is forced into the ceiling grooves as well. 4. I use 2 spare factory door panels (with the ends running the same direction as the silicone) to wedge between the seat and ceiling to hold it up there. (It's like they were made for this purpose ). I lay a towel over the ends of the door panels to avoid making a crease in the headliner or seat even though they disappear pretty quickly. 5. Start applying the chrome trim. This helps to stabilize while silicone is curing. 6. Remove towels next day. This is how I have been doing it for several trucks over the last few years with no problems
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
01-13-2006, 01:47 PM | #7 | |
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Re: Interior help...
Quote:
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
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01-13-2006, 06:41 PM | #8 |
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Re: Interior help...
I thought the chrome frame held it up- No?
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69 C-10 LWB, 350, 700r4, 3.73 posi-traction, front disc brakes. Built for the desert- She can take the heat! Vivat Rex Chevus! Last edited by Zonaman; 01-13-2006 at 06:45 PM. |
01-13-2006, 06:50 PM | #9 | |
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Re: Interior help...
Quote:
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads Last edited by 70c10; 01-13-2006 at 06:51 PM. |
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01-13-2006, 07:43 PM | #10 |
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Re: Interior help...
Don't flame me for this since it is your truck and you can do what you please. I am sanding my cab and have spent about 3 hours on the headliner area where someone glued a piece of carpet headliner that I pulled off. If I could find the guy that did that...I would have words with him...LOL! I guess I like the clean look with paint. If you ever decide to run your truck without the headliner...removing that glue will be a big pain. I had to use a heat gun, DA sander and then hand sand the grooves...OUCH!
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'68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary) |
01-13-2006, 07:48 PM | #11 |
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Re: Interior help...
I like the look of the bare roof alright, but it acts as a big noise reflector so I'll be installing a headliner. My question is, does the metal trim go on first, or the headliner center piece. Can I put a headliner in a non headliner truck? I will be buying the trim but making the center piece from cardboard and gluing material that matches my door panels to it. Has anyone ever done this?
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