Lower Control Arms/Front Springs...how to clean & coat? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**COBALT** · 09-23-2002, 01:54 PM

I'm still debating what to do with these things. I ended up soaking them in degreaser, and scrubbing them, but there's still some surface rust and other junk that could come off. The springs are simply too hard to clean well with a brush. Should I take them to the machine shop and have them blasted in the furnace? Sandblasting? Maybe a chem-bath?

Also, how do I have them protected against rust? I thought about having them powder coated, but how would the springs hold up? They're too much of a pain to paint, because springs are just the way they are, and the control arms have those spot welded housings on them that look like a ***** to get paint into the insides.

What should I do? What's been done before? I need a solution this week...

70 Jimmy · 09-23-2002, 02:31 PM

Bead or sand blast is best for both. I didn't have access to a blaster so I used an angle grinder and wire wheel for the A arms. Later I got the use of a bead blaster and did the springs. I don't know how else to do them. Unforntunately I also didn't have the powder coating set up yet so I painted the A arms with Zero Rust. The springs I've powder coated for fun and practice. I know, I'm all bass ackwards, but hey, it's a daily driver. Powder coating is best and will hold up on the springs. When you buy a new set up springs, they are usually powder coated. If I could, I'd powder coat everything but the sheet metal.

Spoof · 09-23-2002, 02:32 PM

I'm at the same point as you and I have decided to clean them up as best I can by hand and paint them with some rust prevention paint.
Sandblasting and powdercoating are just too expensive, I don't know how people get anything sandblasted for under $50. I bet it would cost me $400 by the time I was done doing the entire suspension.
I think I'll pass on the por-15 and try something else until I hear some reports from people who have had it on for more than a year or two. I'm going to check into some of the other products.
I have a compressor so I'll probably spray everything, but a few spray bombs would probably do the trick.
By the time your finished I'll probably just be getting around to starting it...!

**COBALT** · 09-23-2002, 03:46 PM

Well, I've painted all of the Moog parts from the Early Classic Enterprises kit with Rust-o-leum gloss black self-priming. The parts look awesome. I also decided to do the upper control arms since they didn't have any tricky spots. I also did the center connecting rod. Everything is going to look fantastic. I'd recomend that stuff big time. It's not crazy silver fleck like hammerite. It only has a small touch of the metalic look, but mostly has a tough gloss black finish. Not bad at all.

Earlier I painted my 1 1/16" sway bar and brackets that I got off a '68 with hammerite after I wire wheeled the parts. It looks good, but not nearly as good as the Rost-o-leum. If I did it over I'd forget the hammerite.

You can get Rust-o-leumn in spray can, qt. and gallon cans.

wlee · 09-23-2002, 03:58 PM

Sand blasting is probably the best way to remove the rust . . . but if you have a bunch of gunk, it will take along time to blast - the sand just pushes the grease around - take it to the carwash & pressure wash the majority of the gunk off, then blast 'em! If you don't have a compressor & blaster, then you should check with your local monument company - mine blasts parts for about $10 a piece.

I did this entire crossmember at home with a cheap hand blaster & it worked great - took a little time, but I liked the results. The springs are a little tedious to paint, but if you're careful to shoot inside the coils, you'll end up with a nice job - I used DuPont acrylic enamel for the finish coat.

70 Jimmy · 09-23-2002, 04:24 PM

If you have a syphone (sp) system, always make sure ALL the grease is off your parts before blasting. The blaster will impregnate the metal with the grease and there is a good chance you'll have problems with painting over the grease.

**COBALT** · 09-23-2002, 04:43 PM

No problems with grease/grime guys. All that's been completely scrubbed off. It's just lots of surface rust which I can't stand. Just want them nice and clean so when they're coated they look good.

09-23-2002, 01:54 PM	#1
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Lower Control Arms/Front Springs...how to clean & coat? I'm still debating what to do with these things. I ended up soaking them in degreaser, and scrubbing them, but there's still some surface rust and other junk that could come off. The springs are simply too hard to clean well with a brush. Should I take them to the machine shop and have them blasted in the furnace? Sandblasting? Maybe a chem-bath? Also, how do I have them protected against rust? I thought about having them powder coated, but how would the springs hold up? They're too much of a pain to paint, because springs are just the way they are, and the control arms have those spot welded housings on them that look like a ***** to get paint into the insides. What should I do? What's been done before? I need a solution this week... __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

09-23-2002, 02:31 PM	#2
70 Jimmy aka Crusher, Crushergmc Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,834	Bead or sand blast is best for both. I didn't have access to a blaster so I used an angle grinder and wire wheel for the A arms. Later I got the use of a bead blaster and did the springs. I don't know how else to do them. Unforntunately I also didn't have the powder coating set up yet so I painted the A arms with Zero Rust. The springs I've powder coated for fun and practice. I know, I'm all bass ackwards, but hey, it's a daily driver. Powder coating is best and will hold up on the springs. When you buy a new set up springs, they are usually powder coated. If I could, I'd powder coat everything but the sheet metal. __________________ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious"

09-23-2002, 02:32 PM	#3
Spoof Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Victoria,BC, Canada Posts: 1,300	I'm at the same point as you and I have decided to clean them up as best I can by hand and paint them with some rust prevention paint. Sandblasting and powdercoating are just too expensive, I don't know how people get anything sandblasted for under $50. I bet it would cost me $400 by the time I was done doing the entire suspension. I think I'll pass on the por-15 and try something else until I hear some reports from people who have had it on for more than a year or two. I'm going to check into some of the other products. I have a compressor so I'll probably spray everything, but a few spray bombs would probably do the trick. By the time your finished I'll probably just be getting around to starting it...! __________________ 71 GMC 1500 LWB

09-23-2002, 03:46 PM	#4
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Well, I've painted all of the Moog parts from the Early Classic Enterprises kit with Rust-o-leum gloss black self-priming. The parts look awesome. I also decided to do the upper control arms since they didn't have any tricky spots. I also did the center connecting rod. Everything is going to look fantastic. I'd recomend that stuff big time. It's not crazy silver fleck like hammerite. It only has a small touch of the metalic look, but mostly has a tough gloss black finish. Not bad at all. Earlier I painted my 1 1/16" sway bar and brackets that I got off a '68 with hammerite after I wire wheeled the parts. It looks good, but not nearly as good as the Rost-o-leum. If I did it over I'd forget the hammerite. You can get Rust-o-leumn in spray can, qt. and gallon cans. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

09-23-2002, 03:58 PM	#5
wlee Just an Old Mr Goodwrench Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Green Ridge, MO USA Posts: 259	Sand blasting is probably the best way to remove the rust . . . but if you have a bunch of gunk, it will take along time to blast - the sand just pushes the grease around - take it to the carwash & pressure wash the majority of the gunk off, then blast 'em! If you don't have a compressor & blaster, then you should check with your local monument company - mine blasts parts for about $10 a piece. I did this entire crossmember at home with a cheap hand blaster & it worked great - took a little time, but I liked the results. The springs are a little tedious to paint, but if you're careful to shoot inside the coils, you'll end up with a nice job - I used DuPont acrylic enamel for the finish coat. Attached Images __________________ 1969 CST 20 Longhorn 1970 CST 20 Fleetside 1991 Jaguar Sovereign 1992 Mazda Miata

09-23-2002, 04:24 PM	#6
70 Jimmy aka Crusher, Crushergmc Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,834	If you have a syphone (sp) system, always make sure ALL the grease is off your parts before blasting. The blaster will impregnate the metal with the grease and there is a good chance you'll have problems with painting over the grease. __________________ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious"

09-23-2002, 04:43 PM	#7
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	No problems with grease/grime guys. All that's been completely scrubbed off. It's just lots of surface rust which I can't stand. Just want them nice and clean so when they're coated they look good. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.



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