leaving carrier bearing shield on or not

[Fast68Chevy]

will i have to remove the shield part of the shaft(4 speed shaft) when replacing the bearing(today, right now)

was debate on here last year about new bearings clearing the shield or not, one member removed his cuz wasnt enough clearance to keep the shield on the shaft, does it really matter if its on or not ?

want to find out what i can before I slip on the new bearing

thanks for anything

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Randy- Lincoln, IL

r68c30@hotmail.com 2177353230
-71 C-10 350/CH465/3.07, assemble it, yeah right, that'll happen in this world,(not)
-84 Z28 Camaro 5.0L 700R4, 3.73, beater, paid way too much for it like an idiot,,
-84 Firebird SE 2.8L T-5, rod knocking, dammit,,
-82 Firebird 350 4bolt (TBL)/TH350, not running, dammit...
buy/sell/hoard/trade most any GM vehicle parts of any kind
-parting out: '81 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
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[texnician01]

I suppose that it wouldn't matter if you kept the truck immaculately clean but If you are driving it around town then I think I would put it back on. this should help keep crap out of the bearings. I can't remember if those bearings have shielded sides or not but if not you run the chance of getting a rock or something in there and that would not be good. I don't see what it would hurt to put it back on.

by the way you had a 3.07 axle for sale the other day, was it a posi and do you still have it? if it's a posi I am interested.

thanks

Nathan

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1969 C-10 292 I-6 4 spd in the middle of a restoration. going to get a 327 and 3.07 gears but keeping all of the original parts so I can put it back to original later on down the road.
55 chevy 4 door 150
47 Willys CJ-2A

[COBALT]

DON'T LEAVE THEM IN!!!!

Believe me I wasted a couple of days, and had to pull the driveline twice because of those STUPID A$$ SHIELDS. Sorry, just venting.

I put them in when I replaced the bearing, and all they did is make noise and chew up the bearing housing BADLY. This sucks because the bearings are about $30 a pop through NAPA.

I tried adapting the bearing a bit to make everything work, but nothing I did made a difference.

Finally I called a driveline specialist here in Seattle that mainly does marine stuff, but oh well I was tired and desparate. The mechanic I talked to laughed at me and told me I was the 3rd guy in two months who called asking the same question about Chevy 2pc drivelines. He told me the bearings today are better quality, and have a better seal. Therefore, those shields really aren't needed.

Aparently the original bearings were a bit weak, and GM actually put those shields in as a precaution to keep dirt and grime out of what were supposed to be sealed bearings. The bearing I pulled was an original. It's NEVER been replaced, and it looked like it. I could easily see the difference in quality though.

So I pulled the driveline again, and pulled the shields out. No problems since.

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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed!
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast).
Seattle, WA.

*See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com!


[This message has been edited by new69owner (edited April 25, 2002).]

[Fast68Chevy]

ok those little shields yeah i meant not to replace them anyways, but what about the bigger one on the shaft itself ? the one thats part of the end of the tubing ?

and does anyone know trick to getting the inner bearing race thats pressed onto the shaft itself removed ? im having hard time, more than normal, ive tried heating the race up and clamping in in bench vise and tapping shaft trying to slide race off, but its not working on this shaft, so hmmmm

thanks guys

[COBALT]

You don't have the in-line support bearing do you? The one that's bolted to the frame from front to back? You've got the heavy-duty U shaped one don't you.

...I don't know. Never worked with one of those. I had a 4" gear puller, a 4lb BFH, a 2lb mechanics hammer, and some liquid wrench. I had the torch ready, but never needed to fire it up!

You could always haul it to the machine shop and have them pull it...probably cost around $10 bucks, unless you want a new one pressed on...

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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed!
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast).
Seattle, WA.

*See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com!

[71GMC_3/4T]

If you're trying to get the race off, try slicing through most of it with a dremel (or port grinder) then stick a chisel in the groove and whack it. That's how I usually pull bearings off alternators and it works great.
New69owner sent me EXCELLENT directions on how to change the carrier bearing. I'll bet he'd send them to you if you asked him. I haven't got around to changing mine. Beware, they will try to sell you the wrong bearing unless you know what yours looks like!