master cylander replacement. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Premium72 · 04-06-2006, 02:40 AM

called the part is CHEEP.
what am i lookn at for labor here.

.haha..is this gana take me all day a few hrs or a few minutes?

let me know. wana try an do it tomorrow..thanx as always. w.

dyingdeadman · 04-06-2006, 03:48 AM

about an hour or so. not too bad. dont forget to bench bleed it.

shifty · 04-06-2006, 04:09 PM

any explanation on bench bleeding for us not-so-brake-savvy people?

**dennislbrooks** · 04-06-2006, 04:23 PM

should be with the instruction in the box--also in Haynes. Chuck one of the mounting ears in a vise -- put a bucket or cardboard underneath on the floor -- just in case ------put the plugs in very loose ---- with a blunt screwdriver -- phillips --- gently push plunger in about 3/4" --tighten both line plugs------ fill bowls about 1/2 to 2/3 full with fluid -- and slowly release plunger. That is just a start ----- slowly push in and let out plunger until there are no more air bubbles -- none --zip--- do this with reservoir cap on but maintain fluid level. others will have better and different methods. Once I have finished the bench bleed and installed on vehicle --let the fluid leak a little on the flare nuts before tightening. Once in a while I do not even need to bleed the brakes at the wheels --- but count on doing it anyway.

jlmtrout · 04-06-2006, 07:22 PM

You also may have to power bleed the master cylinder after you bench bleed and mount it. I had trouble with low pressure from the back line to my calipers and couldn't figure out why. I found an article on power bleeding and that solved my low pressure problem. To power bleed, remove the line with low pressure between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve (disc brakes) and cover the hole with your thumb. Have someone SLOWLY push the brake pedal. You will feel pressure build up and push your thumb off of the hole. Keep your thumb over the hole (and a rag handy) and repeat until you don't feel any more air in the master cylinder (you can tell the difference) when the pedal is pushed. Hope this helps. Good luck and keep on truckin'........Jerry

04-06-2006, 02:40 AM	#1
Premium72 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Villa Rica Ga Posts: 889	master cylander replacement. called the part is CHEEP. what am i lookn at for labor here. .haha..is this gana take me all day a few hrs or a few minutes? let me know. wana try an do it tomorrow..thanx as always. w.

04-06-2006, 03:48 AM	#2
dyingdeadman Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: san marcos,tx Posts: 266	Re: master cylander replacement. about an hour or so. not too bad. dont forget to bench bleed it. __________________ 72 GMC sierra 3/4 ton 402 bb 68 GMC 3/4 ton 2010 camaro rs: daily driver

04-06-2006, 04:09 PM	#3
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,373	Re: master cylander replacement. any explanation on bench bleeding for us not-so-brake-savvy people? __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

04-06-2006, 04:23 PM	#4
dennislbrooks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Williamsburg, Ohio Posts: 1,798	Re: master cylander replacement. should be with the instruction in the box--also in Haynes. Chuck one of the mounting ears in a vise -- put a bucket or cardboard underneath on the floor -- just in case ------put the plugs in very loose ---- with a blunt screwdriver -- phillips --- gently push plunger in about 3/4" --tighten both line plugs------ fill bowls about 1/2 to 2/3 full with fluid -- and slowly release plunger. That is just a start ----- slowly push in and let out plunger until there are no more air bubbles -- none --zip--- do this with reservoir cap on but maintain fluid level. others will have better and different methods. Once I have finished the bench bleed and installed on vehicle --let the fluid leak a little on the flare nuts before tightening. Once in a while I do not even need to bleed the brakes at the wheels --- but count on doing it anyway. Last edited by dennislbrooks; 04-06-2006 at 04:25 PM.

04-06-2006, 07:22 PM	#5
jlmtrout Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Memphis, Tn Posts: 194	Re: master cylander replacement. You also may have to power bleed the master cylinder after you bench bleed and mount it. I had trouble with low pressure from the back line to my calipers and couldn't figure out why. I found an article on power bleeding and that solved my low pressure problem. To power bleed, remove the line with low pressure between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve (disc brakes) and cover the hole with your thumb. Have someone SLOWLY push the brake pedal. You will feel pressure build up and push your thumb off of the hole. Keep your thumb over the hole (and a rag handy) and repeat until you don't feel any more air in the master cylinder (you can tell the difference) when the pedal is pushed. Hope this helps. Good luck and keep on truckin'........Jerry __________________ '68 c-10 long wheelbase fleetside, been in family since new, originally 250 3 speed Now (389) 350 .060 over 3.75 stroke,Edelbrock Performer RPM 70cc heads and Intake 600 cfm Edelbrock,Small Comp Cams retro-roller cam and roller rockers,9:1 cr, headers, HEI,Old Air a/c, 72 power disc brakes w/stainless lines, 3.42 gear,T-56 6-speed, original paint(what's left of it). Dakota Digital Dash



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