Good frame paint over Eastwood RE ???

[Green Machine]

Painted frame with one coat of Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator. I want to topcoat it with something. They suggest their chassis black, but I can also buy chassis black local much cheaper. Don't want to spend a ton, but what would be good over the top ? Thanks.

[shifty]

regular rustoleum will chip, scrape away and flake even if you paint it right. you'll need something that will have a hard shell coat to it or at least have some kind of resilience. I'll be watching this thread, I'm interested as well. for the time being, I just did my frame in rustoleum.

[oj70chevy]

Originally Posted by shifty

regular rustoleum will chip, scrape away and flake even if you paint it right. you'll need something that will have a hard shell coat to it or at least have some kind of resilience. I'll be watching this thread, I'm interested as well. for the time being, I just did my frame in rustoleum.

my 2.

[MrGoodpliers]

I always sandblast my frames then paint with GM reconditioning paint. It's a 1 step process, open the can, stir, and shoot on clean bare metal. (okay, 3 steps) No primer needed and it has a satin finish. It's pretty cheap at $35 or so, and you can get it at your local dealer.

[Daubs]

I'm going to be watching this thread also...debating what to do with my frame.

Option 1: sandblast, Eastwood RE, then Chassis Black
Option 2: sandblast, then powdercoat
Option 3: knock off heavy stuff, then POR-15, followed by POR-topcoat
Option 4: ???

[Green Machine]

The frame is already painted once with the Eastwoods, I just need to know what a good (inexpensive) topcoat over that would be. Thanks.

[mikeoj]

mrgoodpliers,got a part # for that paint,Thanks!

[Stroker]

You might take a look at Duponts chassis black http://www.performancecoatings.dupon...son/422-05.pdf
I think a gal runs about $35-40 and its fairly close to the factory finish. I think you can get the NASON line of paint at OReilys.

[Primered_69]

I am in the process of painting my frame with Valspar Tractor Paint with a Hardener. It is oil based. Should hold up real good.

[dave666693]

I'm just wire brushing, cleaning with Por Cleaning Solvent and painting on Por-15. Looks great!
If you paint over the Eastwoods with regular paint I think you will need an etching primer.

[fletch4x4]

Im in the same boat as you right now, got the frame blasted and coated with RE... probally going to end up using thier chassis black over it

[silvertonguedevil]

Here's a couple things I've heard and please.....if someone can shoot these down...please do.
I've heard POR-15 is just about the toughest stuff out there but there are two drawbacks. One is that it oxidizes really bad if it is exposed to any sunlight and two is that it does not spray well at all. That it is not something you want to breathe (worse than regular paints). I've heard good and bad things about Eastwood's chassis black. From reading their catalog it sounds to me like you can sand blast your frame and use their Rust Encapsulator or their Chassis Black right on bare metal right out of the can/spray gun as they are both self etching paints. My dad has used their chassis black out of the spray can even and has been impressed. He hasn't had any issues. I've heard that powder coating also has it's ups and downs.
I, like everyone else in this thread ( ) is at that stage and just want to do it the right way and not have any problems after the truck is all put together. If anyone has any ideas or comments, please throw them out.

[Palf70Step]

I did mine with Eastwood RE, but that is it. The only advantage to a top coat is the RE is flat colored. POR is good, but more of a pain to put on and again, it's flat colored when dried. I have used rustolium in the past (in the Northeast) and not a had problem with it for protection. It held up as well as anything else mentioned above. But I am not building a show truck, I wanted to protect it and drive it. Unless you want a shiney surface (which is easier to clean), then you should be OK with just the RE. Otherwise any of the options mentioned above will provide a nice and long term protection factor.

[MrGoodpliers]

Sorry, mikeoj, I'm all out right now! The paint is just called GM Reconditioning Paint, and your dealer should be able to get it for you. Last time I bought it, it was about $35 a gallon. If they can't find it, you can call my local dealer Hardy Chevrolet 770-532-4389 and they should be able to help you out with the paint or the part number. Again, this stuff is very easy to work with and produces great results. I found out about it from a professional hot rod builder/restorer. I usually put about 3 coats on and have never had any problems with oxidizing, fading, peeling or rust. I use it for frames, core supports, inner fenders, hood hinges, brackets and air cleaners. For the smaller stuff I will bead blast instead of sandblast and it comes out looking awesome!

[silvertonguedevil]

Any suggestions for something a little more on the glossier side?

[nyncompute]

I'm fixen to do mine with a coat of Zero Rust. It gets good write ups. Mine's not a frame off deal and I like the duller black look. I'll let you all know how it goes.

[Smitty]

We went to a local auto body-paint supply store and bought a frame black and my brother shot it. I forget the brand but it is very durable. I just brushed the frame clean, no sand blast and no other treatment.

[Sweet72]

Just wanted to throw this idea at you. How about John Deere Blitz Black. I have no experience with this paint but I've heard it's tough, relatively inexpensive and easy to spray. Uses a hardener to "kick", not shiny, not flat, but kinda like a low sheen black.

[wibilly]

i did the rear half of mine with a wire wheel then cleaned very well with wax and grease remover , primed with rustolem rusty metal primer then 2 coats satin black rustolem with valspar hardener then when i pulled the cab i preped the front the same and used gloss por then topcoated with the satin rustolem with hardener i may scoff and add another coat to it all before im done but i'm sure there has to be a better way. a low sheen por with uv protection would be ideal

[4x4Poet]

I really like EW's RE, but any quality high solids "chassis black" will be better than EW's RE alone for looks, protection, and cleanability. If you don't get a recommendation you prefer here, I'd go with your local body paint supplier's recommendation for a high solids "frame "coating in the color and sheen you prefer.

Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black sprays well and is a high solids paint available in flat, satin, or gloss. The aerosol cans come with a quality slit nozzle. Goes on great and looks great. I have yet to use it over RE. Just over still tacky POR15. I think any quality chassis black available locally matches Ext Chassis Blk. I've used Martin/Seymour gloss Chassis Black from a NAPA store and found it comparable to Ext Chassis Blk. Most folks figure that Eastwood is rebadging & renaming commonly available paints.

Eastwood's plain Chassis Black just plain sucks. It won't always all come out of their aerosol cans due to too many high solids, too small of an exit orifice, too small of a nozzle, or some combination of them. I haven't tried it by the QT/GL with an HVLP sprayer.
I only have experience with EW's plain Chassis Blk because I tried it when EW didn't yet offer Ext Chassis Blk. I think the suckiness of EW's plain Chassis Blk forced them to susequently offer Ext Chassis Blk.

[fine 67]

I talked to the dupuot rep.he told me that you can use gloss black single stage enamal BUT they have a flattening add.to make it look factory.I have the part # if you need them.

[silvertonguedevil]

Thank you for that 4x4 Poet. I have gone back and forth about the regular chassis black and the extreme stuff. I was wondering if it was worth the extra money. But it sounds like it is. I'm going to be sand blasting my frame. Would you recommend still using the RE or just going with the Eastwood Extreme paint?

[nitrofn]

I am building a 69 pro street took the frame all the way down and blasted it. I used black Hammertone works and looks good,

[silvertonguedevil]

Welcome to the board!

[4x4Poet]

Originally Posted by silvertonguedevil

...I'm going to be sand blasting my frame. Would you recommend still using the RE or just going with the Eastwood Extreme paint?

I don't think EW's Ext Chassis Blk is self etching. I understand even etched metal from sand blasting still needs an etching primer, or at least a primer, because paint won't stick well enough. I'm no body paint expert, though. I bet a body paint store rep would know. EW's reps would know about Ext CB primer needs, specifically. OTOH, some high solids coatings out there don't call for a primer. Depends upon the formulation.

On blasted metal frames, I, personally, would use EW's RE instead of primer/self-etching primer for six reasons:

1. It self etches, so, just like primer, it will provide the sticktoitiveness a topcoat needs.
2. I've never seen a blasted frame come out completely clean of rust. There's always a few spots with pin point sized pits filled with specs of rust. Usually around brackets and rivet-held crossmembers. Nothing loose, though. Obviously, RE would "encapsulate" those minor, rust-filled pits. Assuming I couldn't get to them with a flap disc.
3. RE can be brushed on. I'd spray, but want the brush option for inside cavities and other areas I know the sprayer won't reach.
4. RE is available in black, so any little spot I miss topcoating, like the side of a rivet against the frame, will nearly match the black topcoat. This can work against the topcoater, though, since he can't see where he's been as easily as with grey primer.
5. I think RE fills pits well. Better than primer, anyway. EW claims it has fiberglass that does the pit filling duties. Makes for a smoother surface look, aesthetically.
6. RE says on the container that it doesn't need scuffing if the topcoat is applied within 36hrs. RE recommends light scuffing, anyway, though.

I still think a quality chassis blk, like the Martin/Seymour brand I picked up from NAPA body paints, would be as good as EW's Ext Chassis Blk. Because I ran out of Ext Chassis Blk, I bought the M/S chassis blk and thereby sprayed both on the same frame and thought they both looked and went on great. I couldn't speak to the amount of solids in one vs. the other. If you buy local, be sure to ask about them adding a hardener if that's recommended for the product you choose. A hardener toughens paint for underbody use. Adds a 3-day or so time limit for use, though.