How and what do you use to strap your truck to a trailer?

[fade94]

I have a car hauling trailer and I have been using 2 10k lb straps to lash the trucks I have hauled down. I run them over the top of the frame of the truck I am hauling front and rear and attach to the side anchor points on the trailer. However, the truck on the trailer likes to shift forward and back even though the straps are tight. My trailer only has the side mounts to strap to. Let me know what your using for straps in addition to what I have, and where you are attaching to your trailer. I have no problem at all with firing up the welder and adding tie down points to this trailer. I am looking into getting 2 more straps and 4 axle straps to attach at the front and rear of the trailer. I will be hauling my 71 to the track on a fairly regular basis as well as delivering my brother's 67 short step to him in Colorado. As always, thanks for the info.

[Joe67]

I use our winch cable, two axle straps and three 2.5" rachet straps.

[N2TRUX]

In the front I hook to the frame and cross over to the opposite side to anchor. This gives a crisscross tie down that does not allow the truck to move sideways.
In the rear I attach to the axle and cross over to the opposite side to anchor. Again the crisscross tie down method is used. Do not tie the frame down in the rear. Let the trucks rear suspension do it's job. This will prevent the truck from bouncing around on the trailer.

I prefer D rings mounted in the floor over side mounted attachment points.

[fade94]

I prefere the D rings as well. I will be adding two in the front and two in the rear attached to the floor and cross bracing. I will probably add 3 on each side as well.

N2TRUX; I had to look twice yesterday. I was in Westminster, TX. and a guy has a truck like yours. Same body style, same wheels, same color. BUT, not as low. Beautiful truck by the way. I read your feature in the mag.

[nu2-72]

I plasma cut washers 1" larger than my "D" rings and mounted under the wooden deck. The "D" rings were routered into the floor to be flush and then carriage bolts were placed through and a center hole was drilled all the way through the ring plate and trailer wood and washer. This lets any water escape and no liquid to freeze in winter.
There are 4 5000# rings and 4 1500# rings in the floor. I will be adding two more 5000# soon. The trailer is a ilt and there is no place to attach straps straight back.
My straps are 12,500# ratchet and I use axle straps with slipsleeves. And I just got two binders given to me so they will go on the trailer also. Don't know if I will ever use them but you never know. Maybe on the Bobcat or tractor.
Want pics?

[fade94]

Originally Posted by nu2-72

Want pics?

Definately.
Still trying to figure out where to put a tool box. My trailer has a piece of metal going from the top of the bump rail running at an angle to the tongue.

[krue]

Agree with the N2trux. But I have also been know to use a come-a-long on the front with a chain and binder on the back axle and one strap over the top for the heck of it.

[Robert1970C20rstbukt]

7/16" chains and boomers. I think I used the 7/16" chain up front and a 1/2" in the rear with a boomer on each one. I hook the chain to the front of the trailer, run it around the *frame*(don't know why i said A arms), then loop the chain around the front of the trailer and put a boomer on it to tension it up. I do the same thing in the back except I wrap the chain around the axle housing. If it has a rear bumper I'll hook another chain to the hitch plate and the bottom of the trailer, and put a boomer in between. Can't be too careful. HD nylon ratchet straps would work a lot better and would be easier to use IMO, but I carry chains in the truck all the time so that's what I've used.

[glock35ipsc]

Chains and boomers only. I run the chain over the rear axle, and over the frame rails in front.

[64fleetside]

big chains & binders, around x-member front & over rear axle, bungee cords or bailing wire(preferred) to keep binders positively locked, I have logged 500mile+ trips w/no problems using this setup, strap can be cut, chain can't,,no worries,,brian

[pumpkin]

I use tow truck "J" hook and chain, with boomers. I hook the rear diff and the front control arm by the ball joint. This way as the truck bounces the chains stay tight, and the truck does not move around.

[nu2-72]

As you can see, I too had trouble with locating a toolbox. I decided to go up high and in front. It adds a little weight but I have the truck to handle it and with the load set right it is no problem. This also gave me room to mount the winch. I have 8 rings currently and will add a few more soon. The trailer is a tilt and there is no frame to hook to in the rear. There is also a pic of one of the washers.

[PanelDeland]

The hitch ball!!! J/K


Check out the over the wheelwell toolboxes for pickups.You may have to build mounts but they could be mounted forward or backward and seems like they would affect the balance less.You may only be able to put one on the pass side and still enter/exit the vehicle.Or build the box to take up the space where your braces run.I have also seen racks built on the front over the trailer for tire and strap storage.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by fade94

......, not as low. Beautiful truck by the way. I read your feature in the mag.

Thanks for the compliment...

[HotRod71]

I tow my Wrangler more than my truck but I use 4' 40k lb straps. I use 2 in the front and criss-cross them using J hooks into the frame like the car haulers use. Then I use the J hooks in the back and take the straps to the very back corner of the trailer. I also leave the vehicle out of gear so that the tranny will not effect how tight the straps can go. I try to make sure I compress the springs down as much as possible.

[dwaite72lnghrn]

I welded "D" rings up front so the tops are over the edge of the trailer. In front I use 2 3" ratchet straps to the frame. Before I tighten them I put wedges in front of the wheels and nail down a 2x4 in front of that. In the rear I use a grade 70 chain with 2 load binders and wedge the rear wheels after I tighten the front I then tighten the back. no bouncing no movement.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by fade94

Definately.
Still trying to figure out where to put a tool box. My trailer has a piece of metal going from the top of the bump rail running at an angle to the tongue.

I purchased my 1st trailer & then added $1300 worth of accessories: black alum-treadplate tool box, 4500# Superwinch, solar batt charger, 20ft 00 gauge cable w/quick disconnects, battery, 5gal air tank, 4x 10K ratchet straps, 4x axle straps, & misc trailer locks.

The trailer was 18ft, steel floor, dove tail w/single brake (worth ~ $1700 w/TTL), plus the $1300 worth of accessories = a total investment of 3K. How much was I reimbursed from insurance after it was stolen? Zip.... zilch . . . . nodda.

I do not recommend keeping a tool box on the trailer. After having replaced all the items on my NEW trailer (out of my own pocket), I have the winch set-up for quick install/removal by mounting studs to the trailer floor. I keep all the straps, locks, & remaining BS in a large duffle bag IN THE GARAGE W/THE WINCH until it's time for work. It takes about 10mins to install everything & be ready to go.

[SCOTI]

Oops. After I got off my soapbox I realized I didn't answer the original question of the thread.

I use 4 axle straps, 4 10K lb ratchet straps, + the winch cable.
Up front I attach the winch cable/lead to something on the front end/suspension & remove any/all slack. I then hook an axle strap through the a-arm & criss-cross to the opposite side w/a ratchet strap.

I do the same w/the axle straps on each side of the rear-end 'pumpkin' & criss-cross again.